Morley Bad Horsie

Started by Michael Allen, August 23, 2004, 06:57:50 PM

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Michael Allen

I'm going to put one together but I need to know the specifications on the LEDs. Morley site doesn't say, and I don't want a SuperBrite instead of Regular Diffused and Vice Versa.

Also does anyone have a pic of the Inside? I'm curious as to how far the shudder travels.

Thanks..

Michael

Transmogrifox

I don't know any part numbers, but I know it's a very concentrated angle LED.  It's practically a straight beam from the LED to the LDR.  I haven't measured the distance, but I imagine it travels just slightly past the thickness of the LED.  It's similar to the concept of a water valve that constricts flow through a pipe.

The LED used to detect '0' for bypass uses a long shaded plastic strip.  It is a diffused red LED. It initially seems backwards, but I modded the thing to be an envelope filter, and sure enough, the concetrated beam and hole modulate the wah.  It made sense whyafter I thought about if for a while.

For the brightness of the LED:  Don't try to find the exact LED.  Just change the bias resistor until the wah range and travel sounds good.  It will be much easier.  Also, if you're building from scratch, you're just as well off to build the contour wah just so you have the extra flexibility...hey, why not?
trans·mog·ri·fy
tr.v. trans·mog·ri·fied, trans·mog·ri·fy·ing, trans·mog·ri·fies To change into a different shape or form, especially one that is fantastic or bizarre.

Michael Allen

Would you happen to have a picture of the inside?

downweverything

i have one but no camera.  they just look like el cheapo red diffused ones, not very bright at all.  i imagine they are nothing special.  i may post a pic tonight if i can locate a camera.  i modded mine to have a freq contour pot also.

Michael Allen

Does anyone know what part of the schematic is used for switching. I would really like to whittle it down to just the wah circuit. I'm sure the 2N5484 are part of the switching.

It's probably a long shot, but anyone have a scan of the board so I can trace the layout? I'm having some problems putting my own together.

Thanks all,

Ansil

uhmmm question if you want to do this wah and leave out the switching. why not just use a standard wah shell,  and forgo all the unnesecary cmos stuff at all, and simply use the led ldr to control the voltage to the led, which would be a ton easier and have a better range from what i have found out.   the schematic is on my old site with the cyborg stuff removed.

http://www.geocities.com/cemaynard1134/schematic.htm


also if you want to have the option for the whole crybaby or clyde mccoy sound.  replace the 33k with a 100k pot. and mark where 33k would be.  works great for me.

Michael Allen

Alright, that's cool without the CMOS/JFet switching. But how can I use an LED/LDR. That's what I need. I don't have a wah shell and I wanted to make use of this sewing pedal, so an LDR instead of the pot is the way I need to go. I figure all I need is an LED driver to drive an LED in place of that pot right? Morley is sending me some LDR's to use...

With the CMOS/JFet stuff, there is a 2N4401 driving an LED. I assume that this is driving the LED all the time right? So I don't need to electrically shut it off. What I don't have is an LED Driver. How about using something like the Millenium Bypass indicator LED to drive the LDR. And the sewing pedal will control a shudder between the LED and LDR.

Gracias..

al3151

Here's a pic inside a Morley but i don't know wich model.



Ansil

ok sorry i feel what you mean there.. hmm how is your movable pedal hooked in i stuck a pot in there in mine right in the little joint cause it moved around once i tightend it down it was fine.  well anyway.. yes you can put a little shudder in there personally i would still put a range or sensitivity pot.  you basicaly have the led on all the time when the pedal is active.   and the shudder determines the amount of light on the ldr. which determines the resistance of the wah circuit.  so you could set the maximum brightness with a pot, but still have the shudder control the wah.  so in a nutshell there you go.

you were going to put switch in right??? of course you could always use an electronic switch in there and set up the switch to engage the wah when the ldr detects light.  there are other ways also.