Solder and making PCB's with an Inkjet

[littlegreiger]

I have a few questions.  First of all which type of solder is better, rosin core with flux or just straight rosin core?  Should I use flux seperate, like putting some on the component leads before soldering or just use solder? And one last question: What is the best way to do PCB transfers with an Inkjet?

[wizard]

making PCBs: http://hem.passagen.se/communication/pcb.html

For audio propose, I usually use 2% Ag solders. Flux will be used when soldering large metal parts or large copper areas. Jsut make sure you've cleaned the pcb before soldering. The copper clad should look shiny, which will make the soldering job easier. Clean the board after soldering.

Prevent the wire leads of your components from oxidization, this willl save you lot a time.

If you want to know more about flux (when to use it), you can use "solder flux" as key words on www.google.com.

[Aharon]

PCB transfers with an inkjet.........you would have to print onto a transparency and then use photosensitive board.
If you were wondering if you could press n' peel with an inkjet the answer is no,you need a laser printer.
Aharon

[Hal]

print the layout with the inkjet on plain paper, bring that to your public library, when no one's looking sneak pnp into the copier, pop in a nickel, and photocopy the layout :-D

if it melts, somehow, RUN!

edit: I use normal water soluble flux.  63/37 solder.

[Fret Wire]

PCB transfers with an inkjet.........you would have to print onto a transparency and then use photosensitive board.
Aharon

That's it... us inkjetter's don't have many options. I use 3M Multipurpose Transparency Film #CG6000, available at Staples. Works great, one side is gloss smooth for laser jets, the other side is slightly textured for injets.

I've also had great luck with MG Chemical's developer and etching solution. On my next batch of boards, I'll be trying MG's Liquid Tin solution. Works at room temp., no heating or mixing, 3-5 minutes working time, then rise with warm water. "Tinnit" works nicely plate wise, but I'm tired of  heating it, and the extra ammonia rinse. We'll see how it works.

[markr04]

making PCBs: http://hem.passagen.se/communication/pcb.html

Wizard, thanks for this link! I searched and searched and never found anything this informative on the photo process.

[gez]

I use an inkjet to do PCBs.  You can print off your artwork onto a transparency, cover with tracing paper to make it more opaque and then expose it using a UV unit.  If it’s a small board you can tape it to a fluorescent light and expose it that way.



The results aren’t as good as using a laser printer (you get slight pitting once etched), but I’m not complaining.

[puretube]

hi Gez: which kind of transparency do you use,
(not having seas of ink flowing around on the sheet... :cry: )
and how would you describe "tracing paper" to
us foreigners?

[gez]

hi Gez: which kind of transparency do you use,
(not having seas of ink flowing around on the sheet... :cry: )
and how would you describe "tracing paper" to
us foreigners?

Hi PT, any transparencies designed for use with an inkjet will work.  I use whatever's cheapest.  The last batch I bought were 'IBM Inkjet Transparencies' - 25 for £8.  One side is slightly sticky and it's this that stops the ink from running.  If you go to a local computer store they should have a least one brand that's suitable for inkjet use.

Unfortunately I don't know the German word for tracing paper and my mother's in Hamburg at the moment so I can't ask her!  

It's the stuff that you put over an image so that you can draw round the outline of that image (it looks like paper but is slightly translucent so that you can 'see' through it).  Although I said tracing paper, I actually use 'baking paper' (either one works) which is the stuff used to line tins when baking cakes etc.  It works out cheaper, but not all types work (has to be fine and white, not the coarse yellow stuff).

[gez]

PS.  The other way of doing this with an inkjet is to simply print off your artwork onto normal paper and spray it with WD-40 (the stuff used to remove rust/lubricate etc).  The WD-40 makes the paper transparent enough to work in an exposure unit.

I've done this and it works well, but the detail isn't quite as good as you can get using transparencies (plus you can only use the image once).

[puretube]

ahh, the tracing paper is what I always call "sandwich-" (Butterbrot-)paper
at my local copy shop (and the lady starts yelling at me...).
Actually that one is called "transparent-" paper in German.
That`s the stuff I have my layouts copied onto (for photo-resist etching)
from my inkjetted paper originals.

Haven`t found any transparencies ("Folie" = foil in German) yet,
that keep the ink where it should stay, when using these foils...
(yes, I`ve tried both sides of each...)

maybe it`s the Atari PCB cad software`s driver,
that spits too much ink onto the sheet...

[Aharon]

Actualy there was a thread somewhere that stated that you could use the "waxpaper" itself to print to instead of PnP blue.I have to try that.
So far I have "mastered" the PnP procedure.The secret is the temperature of the iron.All that about how long you iron and other rubish is nonsense.Clean board,the proper heat setting and that's all you need.
Aharon

[Nasse]

One synonym is sketch paper, architects and engineers and artist used to use such paper in the old days, not so thick and not so much silicone treated as kitchen stuff. Where I live you could buy such paper where they had drawing ink and special pens that engineers and architects used. And better quality transparent paper than sketch paper and kitchen stuff is available, much smoother surface and less opaque. Most expensive stuff is made of plastic, with suitable surface for drawing ink, and if you make a mistake you can scrab it off with razorblade...  But baking paper and that sandwich stuff works just fine I believe. We mostly have brown unbleached baking paper at home, less nasty chemicals used in the manufacturing process.

[gez]

maybe it`s the Atari PCB cad software`s driver,
that spits too much ink onto the sheet...

I doubt it PT, it probably has something to do with the transparencies you're using.  When I first started doing this I used the wrong type and got what you described (ink not taking to the paper and running all over the place).

Inkjet transparencies are universal so you should be able to find some locally.

I think Nasse might be onto something with using 'draughting paper' (art shops sell it).  I read on one site that rather than using transparencies they were printing directly onto tracing paper and doing things that way.  If you could find some paper that is slightly transparent and not waxed then you might be able to print onto it?

PS  Thanks for the mini German lesson (I need it!)  

[gez]

PT, I just thought of something.  When you print off your page you should be given the option to select the type of paper you want from a pulldown list.  You should be able to select 'transparency' and you'll get better quality prints.  Apologies if you've already done this.

If you don't get this option when you print off a document you should be able to change the paper type by clicking on 'control panel' then 'printers & faxes' then right click on the printer icon and select 'printer preferences'  There should be a pulldown menu for selecting paper type there.

Double apologies if you've done this too!  

[puretube]

that`s the point: it`s an old Atari program with 4 drivers available:
9needles/24needles/HPdeskjet/AtariSLM804;

it offers 2 options ("pulldown menue"): draft/presentation;
(the first prints about every fourth "needle" (or "pin", or "dot"),
and the second seems to "spit" two or four times at the same position.


printing onto normal paper, and then copying it to "parchment" (to use another baking-paper phrase...) is basically ok for me,
weren`t it for the facts that:
a) my drawings are always finished on saturdays, 5 minutes after the
copyshop closed... :cry: ,
b) the copymachines love to not make an exact 100% sized clone
of the original throughout the whole area - especially when it comes to larger boards...
(not so important with tube layouts, but with DIL sockets having traces
between the pins, it gets hairy...)

I`ve tried about all transparencies I could get a hold on - both with the original HP ink, as well as no-name inks and refilled cartridges -
- with original HP "specially designed" sheets as well as "approved for HPdj400", and numerous others of wellknown and of noname manufacturers -

I`ll give the IBMs a try if I find them...

thanks a lot for the tips  

[gez]

I`ll give the IBMs a try if I find them...

If you've tried other transparencies I doubt these would be any better PT.  I'm pretty clueless when it comes to computers so I don't know what to suggest about your printing problem.   :oops:

I know what you mean about printing shops not getting it quite right.  I once spent an hour in the place just opposite where I live, trying to get them to print an image to scale.  Needless to say it was slightly out when I got it home!  :roll:

[Fret Wire]

Puretube: the 3M CG6000 transparencies do work great. One side is rough textured for inkjets. No runs, smudges, or anything.