Help! Fender Locking Tuners

[phillip]

I just got some of the chrome Schaller/Fender locking tuners for my Strat and I noticed that three of the six have string winding posts that are shorter than the others.  Which strings get the long ones, and which strings get the short ones?

HELP!   :shock:
Phillip

[aaronkessman]

the longer ones are for the strings closest to the neck (lowest), the shortest are for the strings farthest for the neck (highest). this is cuz they try to maintain as closely as possible the same breaking angle for each string over the nut. its not exact, but better than regular string posts.

[phillip]

the longer ones are for the strings closest to the neck (lowest), the shortest are for the strings farthest for the neck (highest). this is cuz they try to maintain as closely as possible the same breaking angle for each string over the nut. its not exact, but better than regular string posts.

Thanks Aaron!  I put them on my Telecaster instead, since I play it about 1000x more than my Strat (since it sounds a lot better with the Duncan pickups), and since I do some serious string bending.  Staying in tune is sometimes a problem but hopefully these will help

Phillip

[pop.adams]

i think the most common thing against detuning is to use MAX. 2 - 3 windings (for E6 cut your string between A5 and D4, for A5 between D4 and G3,...), stretch each string (don't do that too soft) and tune your guitar one halftone up for roundabout 5 min. (a cigarette length) after that tune your guitar right and you will have a stable tuning. i do that with my strat and had never a tuning problem...äh...detuning problem.

carsten

[Nasse]

teflon nut & took off string retainer(s) => happy

later read my guitar hero does same

[Johnny Guitar]

teflon nut & took off string retainer(s) => happy

On one of my old Strats (which was later stolen  :evil: ) I removed the string tees because I use the bar a lot and the strings always hung up on them. On my current Strat I replaced the tees with graphite ones and it stays in tune very well even with vigorous use of the bar (and even though it has a very old original style bridge). I do use a bit of powdered graphite in the nut every time I change strings. I think the tees are often overlooked as a place for tunning problems.

J

[The Tone God]

On one of my strats I have an artifical bone nut that I cut myself. I've been happy with it. I have a set of Schaller non-locking tuning machines on it. They have been stable enough so locking seems to be boardline useless. I put the shorter shafts on the light string and higher shafts on the heavy strings. This put enough angle/tension on the strings across the nut that I removed the string trees completely. I hate them anyways. Sometimes a string breaks on them, they stick when tuning, and make horrible sounds when using the vibrato arm (not tremolo and definetly not whammy bar).

It depends on the angle of the headstock though. I agree that its good practice to wrap atleast three windings of string around the posts. I've actually had strings break in the middle of the post windings so having the extra made sure the string didn't completely break.

Andrew

[Fret Wire]

The 2-3 windings is pretty reliable. Experiment and check the nut break-over angle everytime you restring. Some people use the method where you pull and cut the string to a further tuner post to get the right angle. Or you can put the string through the post, pull it taught, then grab it at the nut, and pull it back one fret, two frets, etc. Which ever method you use, check the angle, and in a couple of string changes, you'll have a repeatable method that gets the right break-over angle for your particular headstock angle and string gauge.

String trees can be a bastard, tuning wise. The roller type work pretty good. I found with the stock Fender type, they have to be placed right, and the height of the tree has to be just right. The string should only ride on the very bottom of the tree where it is rounded. Look at your guitar and you'll often see the same height spacer bushing used for both trees even though the angle is different. Too often, the string will catch the sharp edge of the tree, which wrecks whammy tuning stability. Also, some grease on the bottom of the tree will help alot, as does graphite on the nut. A proper cut nut is so important to tuning stability.