Perfboard and Sparkle Boost questions???

[drummondrs]

Which order do the components need to go in?? E.g. Caps and resistors first, I don't fully understand. Where do I solder then components? Close together or far apart? And can I have a list of parts for the Sparkle boost as I don't fully understand schematics yet, and wiring diagram would be superb, I would be ever so grateful. Sorry, for my lack of knowledge but I am knew to this kind of stuff and I really want to give it a go.

[petemoore]

Use sockets for the actives connections [Transistors / opamps] so you can plug them into the sockets After the heat cools. ...or heat sinks if you can...I use sockets anyway.
 The order of populating components on the board is N/A doesn't matter.
 Read Read Read, isthe best way to find accurate, concise Info on what you need to know. DIY FAQ< Debugging PAge, GEO articles, linking around...this is where you'll really learn the chops. Not good at 'reading math' problems?...scan over, then try to figure some of the math during re-reads.
 The metals [leads, pads, wire, etc.] must be hot for the solder to 'grab', a clean tip, lightly tinned [slight bit of fresh solder melted on hot iron tip] transfers heat consistantly, touching the tip to all metal pieces is recommended, but is not always possible, add only enough solder to the hot joint metals as is needed to get a sturdy physical structure, let the metals heat before cooling them with the adding of the cold solder, sometimes drawing a 'stream' of solder from the tip, across the 'other' lead heats 'the' lead that needs it faster when the tip has not access to touch it directly.
 Small Bear Tweek-O article and pics helps the initiate to understand electronic wiring and soldering.
 Best recommend I can make is 'do the Reads'...take your time.
 A DMM is this debuggers 'best friend'.

[drummondrs]

Thanks, but I still have two questions. How do I add a DC jack? And the pots because pots have 3 lugs and I don't see what I can wire them to on the perf.

[object88]

The jacks and pots can be attached to the pedal in different ways.

They are sometimes mounted directly to a PCB or perfboard, but that's dependant on the type of jack or pot, type of lead, and lead spacing, not to mention spacing issues in the pedal itself.  They are also commonly mounted directly on the pedal chassis, and them wires are run from the leads to the PCB or perfboard.

Since you're working with a perfboard, and I assume that you're new to this, it might be best to mount the jacks and pots directly to the pedal, and fly some wires between.  There's significantly less industrial engineering involved that way.  

[drummondrs]

I am using perfboard because it is a simpler effect, and I don't have the means of making a PCB. I have used PCB's before and I understand that but I don't understand some stuff.
1. How do you design the circuit layout from schematics?
2. On perfboard how do you ground?

[petemoore]

In simplest and most complete terms, follow the schematic when 'perfing'.
 NPN cct you're building, Gnd [south], input west, V+ [mostly north], output [to the left or east]...most of the time referenced as left right up down.
 The schematic map could be laid over the perf, but to use a smaller piece and have a tighter cct., look at the perf layouts at ROG [runoff groove] for examples.
 Beginner Forum's NPN boost is another great reads resource for beginning a first cct.
 Find the data sheet for the transistor your'e using for correct pinout.
 Watch the pins of polarized caps, for general reference, the most + voltage of the cct's...go the the + on Polarized caps, and should already be marked accordingly on the schematics.
 LOOK at nodes as points where more than one component lead [1 '+', could be 3, 4 etc.], Count the connections at each node, plan the lay of the components so the iron and all connections can be made as easily AP.
 I use the top of the board, planning the physical structure using the perfholes [cheating],..makes it easier to follow, plus gives ez access to cct points for testing voltages, continuity, audio probing, etc debugging and wiring tasks, plus you can see from the top of the board easier what's going on...should you choose to start 'cheating' make sure you don't get caught with structural failures, 'strewning' parts across so they pull with enough leverage to separate a copper pad hole from the board. I just find where many connections are to be made say that includes a socket that has adjacent connectionS, instead of 'dealing with a crowd' I simply leave some R or C lead length on a component, then use that length for soldering to above the board. Then testing continuity of that R to that socket lead is a breeze...much easier than trying to see, and connect points atop and below the board simultaneously...I've been using this technique at my own risk alot, with N/P's.
 Consider that 'heavy' joints, those with many components, large heavy lugs [like jacks], have greater thermal mass, and will take longer to heat at the same iron heat as smaller joints.
   :roll: Don't breath the fumes ?

[Torchy]

crp

[drummondrs]

Sure thing, I don't want to pester you guys all the time, with my troubles. I will start off small then gradually work my way up into the larger things. And hopefully start up my own business . Thanks

[Dragonfly]

...this might help answer some questions for you...its the FAQ from a great site that is run by one of our forum members....

enjoy !

http://fuzzcentral.tripod.com/faq.html