Drilling PCB

[dave h.]

I have gathered that a 1/32" bit is required, and a small, light "hand drill" is recommended. when laying out the PCB in the graphics program, should the white-dot spaces for thru-holes be 1/32, or should they be smaller than 1/32"?

and also does anyone know if press n peel blue can work on the non-clad side, for transferring the component layout? im trying to decide between buying 10 bucks worth of Press n peel or 10 bucks worth of the esteemed paper from staples.

[Tychobrahe1979]

When I made a PCB design I just made the pads a solid circle and then used a scribe to put a small indentation in the center of each pad. All though this can be a bit tedious it does prevent your drill bit from walking from the intended point.

For the component layout I've read where people just use a laser printed transparency. I've used this method with success for transferring PCB designs with success.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

For the component layout I've read where people just use a laser printed transparency. I've used this method with success for transferring PCB designs with success.

So obvious, and so good... why didn't someone tell me this a decade ago?!
I suppose if you were really keen, it might be possible to PnP it :wink:

[Connoisseur of Distortion]

slightly OT, but for drilling i have found a drill press to be more useful. With my 1/32" bits, i take no chances with a hand drill moving on me... a press gives you a hand that moves in only one direction, so all you have to do is line it up, and pull the lever.

[sir_modulus]

I use a drill press and a 1/32 bit, and a 1/64 bit for drilling. I've never broken a bit before...so I think Drillpress' = good!

Cheers,

Nish

[O]

I personally use Staples paper with a 300dpi Laser printer. So far, I've had excellent results using a Dremel multi tool and the Dremel drill press.

In my experience, once you etch the board, the pads have enough of a "hole" where the drill bit doesn't walk around if a drill press is used.

As far as the layout "Silkscreening"... just use some transparency paper and press lightly.

[guitarmonky55]

no fancy drill presses for me, i use a pin vice and do it by hand  

its tedious but ive yet to break a bit so its good.  a little more pocketbook friendly too i might add.

[mattburnside]

I use a #68 wire-gauge drill bit from drillbitcity.com in a dremel drill press. The nice part about these bits is that they fit directly into the dremel chuck without any of the drill bit adapters that you might have to buy separately.

For the holes that have off-board wires, I use more like a #62.

[MartyB]

I use standard pcb drillbits - various sizes, but all have a 1/8" shank that fits dremels without need for an adapter (see below).    I use large-jawed metal clamps to fasten my dremel onto my workbench.  Now I have two free hands to drill my pcb with.  I apply the pcb to the rotating bit.  My drilling goes very fast.  I imagine faster than with a drill press.  I used to first tap a centering point onto each drill spot to keep the bit from walking, but I don't bother anymore - with practice my control of drilling as gotten very good.  I always wear safety glasses. Until I learned to use slower drilling speed settings I broke a couple bits, but now I don't.  By the way the bits are cheap at Harbour Freight here in the states:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34640

[gmr1]

dremel with the "drill press", and craftsman 1/32-in. Engraving Cutter bit. Works great.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

no fancy drill presses for me, i use a pin vice and do it by hand   its tedious but ive yet to break a bit so its good.  a little more pocketbook friendly too i might add.

Some people find it is easier to clamp the drill in a vice, with the trigger held down, and hold the PCB in their hand rather than the other way around.
:!: WARNING WARNING :!:  don't do this with metalwork!! only PCBs and 1/32 drills.

[guitarmonky55]

Some people find it is easier to clamp the drill in a vice, with the trigger held down, and hold the PCB in their hand rather than the other way around.
:!: WARNING WARNING :!:  don't do this with metalwork!! only PCBs and 1/32 drills.

no man i mean i dodnt even use a drill...i bought one of those litle pin vices from sears that can clamp around a drill bit and i drill it by twisting by hand.  thats the true DIY spirit   no room around the house for a drill press, the garage is totally trashed, and im only 17 so i cant even afford a press if i had somewhere to put it.  it takes about 20 minutes to do all the holes but im not complaining.  its not like i mass produce pedals or anything, i only do them here and there about once a month.

[dave h.]

Some people find it is easier to clamp the drill in a vice, with the trigger held down, and hold the PCB in their hand rather than the other way around.
:!: WARNING WARNING :!:  don't do this with metalwork!! only PCBs and 1/32 drills.

no man i mean i dodnt even use a drill...i bought one of those litle pin vices from sears that can clamp around a drill bit and i drill it by twisting by hand.  thats the true DIY spirit   no room around the house for a drill press, the garage is totally trashed, and im only 17 so i cant even afford a press if i had somewhere to put it.  it takes about 20 minutes to do all the holes but im not complaining.  its not like i mass produce pedals or anything, i only do them here and there about once a month.

tell me more about this... i too am broke and live in a small apartment. drill presses are rather out of the question, though my dad is willing to go "look at" dremel tools with me next time im back at their place. hopefully that means what it meant for the cordless drill... he buys it, never uses it, and it sleeps over at my place every night hehehe.

[guitarmonky55]

just get a 1/32 bit and then head to sears find a pin vice, its like a little pen handle attachment you can use with a drill bit.  i do all my boards by hand, i trace the circuits with sharpie and etch and then drill with the pin vice by spinning it around.  make sure to make alittle punch in the middle of the pad so the bit can get into the fiberglass as when doing it by hand they have trouble getting through the copper if you dont get it started.

[mojotron]

tell me more about this...

I use the exact method O describes above - I'm using a #60 bit.. dremel... stapes paper... . For about $100 you can have the tools to make perfect boards. Pretty small unit too.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

no man i mean i dodnt even use a drill...i bought one of those litle pin vices from sears that can clamp around a drill bit and i drill it by twisting by hand.  thats the true DIY spirit  

Right you are! Actually, I do something like this for stripboard, cutting the traces. I have a hand-held thing intended to be used (possibly) for tapping, ie. making threaded holes. With a short drill bit in it (intended for pop rivet work) it gives much more control, with a power drill I tend to mess up the board. Some peopel manage to cut stripboard with an exacto knife, I'm not gonna live as dangerously as that!