PCB photopaper suggestion: Fry's.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Here's a quote from a post by someone at synth-diy:

"if any of you make PCBs at home, I discovered a photo
paper that's great for doing a toner transfer of the
pcb design to the copper.

I found it at fry's, if you have one nearby. It's
called "Professional Quality Glossy Photo Paper For
High Resolution Inkjet Printers"

It's the cheapest paper they have- Cost's $3.99 for 20
sheets, but it's been on sale for $1.99 lately.

You just iron it on to the pcb, after treating it with
scotchbrite pads and cleaning it with acetone. You'll
need to iron on for between 3-5 minutes, making sure
each and every part gets lots of heat & pressure. Make
sure you press down with decent pressure.

But, I've made 2 boards so far with it, and it works
about perfectly. Plus, it's MUCH cheaper than the blue
transfer sheets.

Hope this might help someone..."

Since this comes up here a lot, I hope it is OK to just quote this.
I havn't used it myself (the nearest Fry's is across the Pacifi).

[Dji]

Can you pick it out in a lineup?

http://shop3.outpost.com/search?sort=price&order=asc&order_by=p03a&cat=-47538&pType=pDisplay&from=0&to=24

I'm an East Coaster, so I can't head over to Fry's, but I'll try an order (or try to find it somewhere else).

Maybe this this something that should work with any inkjet photo paper?

[Dji]

I didn't read carefully. You can't pick it out since it's not your post. Ne'ermind.

But maybe someone's tried it?

[O]

You can't beat $1.99 for 20 sheets, but the Staples High-gloss inkjet photo paper has worked beautifully for me. I've etched 4 boards and so far, not one broken trace, mess-up, or non-trasnfer. As long as you scuff the board with some scotch-brite pads, clean it it acetone, and use a hot iron; you get results as good or better than PNP blue.

If you want a picture of the results of using Staples paper, let me know and I might be able to get you some.

[Dji]

That's great to know. Thanks! I'll give it a try.

I'm such a hobby-level, puzzle-builder-not-comprehender kinda pedal guy that I'll probably keep buying boards from GGG and Tonepad (long may they etch), but right now I'm itching for some etchin'.

[triskadecaepyon]

so you use it the same as PnP blue, by taking the printed side and ironing it to the board?

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

so you use it the same as PnP blue, by taking the printed side and ironing it to the board?

You got it!!
the toner goes on the shiny side.
The confusing thing is, the paper is designed for ink jet printing, BUT, you print it with a laser printer or photocopier.

Thinks: I wonder how teflon coated baking sheets would go?? :roll:

[bioroids]

Hi!

I'm using HP Semi-glossy Photo Paper for Inkjets and works like a charm.
Very cheap too!

The method is the same as with PnP

Luck

Miguel

[nightingale]

this link has good info on the subject:
http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm

[Paul Marossy]

The confusing thing is, the paper is designed for ink jet printing, BUT, you print it with a laser printer or photocopier.

That just means that the paper is porous enough for the ink to adhere but not so porous that the toner won't completely release onto the PCB.

I think I may have to give this method a try.

[beans_amps]

This Guy has several suggested paper types and some results.  He also has a pretty good bit of information if you navigate around a bit.  It is all inder the Hardware section from his home page.

http://www.buildyouridea.com/hardware/4_axis_controller/4_axis.html

Not Stompboxes but very interesting.  I am probably going to build a 3 axis mill over the next two years or so.

Sean Weatherford
Bean's Amp Repair
Central, SC

[jayp5150]

Does anyone have any success with using an inkjet printer for transfers?  I'd like to get into etching, but don't have a laser printer.

[bioroids]

Hi

Inkjet is no good for this, I tried and failed miserably

On the other hand you can print with the inkjet on a regular paper and then photocopy to the good one (on the shinny side )  Photocopies are very cheap and work with the same toner. Only drawback is a little less resolution, but for most effects works fine.

Luck

Miguel

[jayp5150]

oh yeah, you could.  For some reason I never think of the simple things.  thanks.

[Paul Marossy]

You need something that was either printed with a LaserJet type printer or a toner based copier. The reason being that those two machines use toner, which can be heated and melted onto an unetched PCB. InkJet type printers absolutely will not work. It's just ink...  

[O]

I'm etching a prototype board tonight. I can document the process if anyone is interested.

[object88]

Interested.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

I am probably going to build a 3 axis mill over the next two years or so.

Ya know, you only need 2 axis mill, and you can start milling out PCBs!!
WOO HOO! (there are very expensive commercial PCB proto milling machines that do this).
in fact, any engraving kit with a pantograph would do it.. I can't see getting traces between chip pads, though.

[troubledtom]

Here's a quote from a post by someone at synth-diy:

"if any of you make PCBs at home, I discovered a photo
paper that's great for doing a toner transfer of the
pcb design to the copper.

I found it at fry's, if you have one nearby. It's
called "Professional Quality Glossy Photo Paper For
High Resolution Inkjet Printers"

It's the cheapest paper they have- Cost's $3.99 for 20
sheets, but it's been on sale for $1.99 lately.

You just iron it on to the pcb, after treating it with
scotchbrite pads and cleaning it with acetone. You'll
need to iron on for between 3-5 minutes, making sure
each and every part gets lots of heat & pressure. Make
sure you press down with decent pressure.

But, I've made 2 boards so far with it, and it works
about perfectly. Plus, it's MUCH cheaper than the blue
transfer sheets.

Hope this might help someone..."

Since this comes up here a lot, I hope it is OK to just quote this.
I havn't used it myself (the nearest Fry's is across the Pacifi).

i get it at copy max for 9 cents a sheet, i can get 8 alphawaves on it!
   peace,
        - tom :wink:

[fuzzosaur jr]

This is great news I will try it  on the weekend. That could be very useful and not just because of the cost. I shouldn’t have any trouble fining a copy place to that type of paper.

I also only have an inkjet printer and normally use that crummy photo positive coated boards, they work ok  but I think they look ugly and your stuck with using only that type of board. I tried  the spray didn’t work well for me.

I got some press and peel and went to some copy shops with it and only found one person brave enough to copy onto it but after (according to the copy guy), it rolled up coming out the machine and nearly got stuck he would never do it again.

I know it is a little off topic but anyone else had trouble getting copy places to print on press and peel?