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Volume pot

Started by Outlaws, February 09, 2005, 08:12:02 PM

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Outlaws

I have been looking on the net but I can' seem to get any straight info on this...

I am building a volume pedal that will just be a volume pot and a footswitch.  I don't want the fancy wah type stuff.  I just want to have a set volume so I can cut the signal and clean up my sound at a set volume.

I can't figure which lugs on the volume pot are in/out/ground.  Maybe I am just exhausted, but I can't seem to find it on the net right now.


I am using a 500k becuase it will be mostly just a LP and very rarely a tele.

MartyB

From the FAQs (hth):

"Pots - How do I wire pots?

Apparently there's a standard for the terminals. When looking at the bottom of the pot (side opposite the shaft sticking out) with the terminals facing left, from top to bottom they are labeled 3,2 and 1. The terminals correspond to the schematic terminal wires.



When viewed from the front, a pot turned fully clockwise connects terminal 2 to terminal 3. Fully counterclockwise connects terminal 2 to terminal 1.Anyway, I know I have connected pots like this but they were still backwards. If that happens, simply swap the wires connected to terminals 3 and 1."

MartyB

Also note that either lugs 1&2 or 2&3 will be tied together .

Outlaws

I saw that.  But where does it say what is in/out/ground?  I don't have a schematic for this.  I am just doing it based on it being like a pickup going to the guitars volume pot.

MartyB

Wire the grounds from in and out together.  Try wiring the terminals of the pot by hand before soldering.  A couple of permutations and you've got it.  E.G.:  IN to 1 or 1&2,, or IN to 3 or 3&4.

Outlaws

Quote from: MartyBWire the grounds from in and out together.  Try wiring the terminals of the pot by hand before soldering.  A couple of permutations and you've got it.  E.G.:  IN to 1 or 1&2,, or IN to 3 or 3&4.



OHHHHHHhhhhhhhh!


I get it.


The signal goes to it and back out...in a sense?  via the same connection?


That figures.  I was always dumbfounded when wiring the pots on the last pedal I built.

So for the DPDT switch I should send the signal to the pot on one side, but but have the bypass type connection on both?

like this...?


Outlaws

I just hand wired it like the diagram (minus the DPDT) and it works...kind of...

I don't lose any volume until about 2/3rds of the way on the pot.  I used an audio becuase I was under the impression that most voume controls use them as opposed to linear, but I think I need to use linear now instead.  :(

Before I go swap these out, is there any objection to this theory?

MartyB

By your drawing (good one) disconnect terminals 1&4, and send 4 to the lug(s) not connected to 1.

I think you almost have it.
8)
MartyB

Outlaws

Quote from: MartyBBy your drawing (good one) disconnect terminals 1&4, and send 4 to the lug(s) not connected to 1.

I think you almost have it.
8)
MartyB


Thanks for your help so far.  (I stole the drawing from the FAQ and just modified it)  ;)

I just redid it like you said, but now (when rolling clockwise) I get no volume for 2/3rds of the way and I get it all back at the last 1/3rd.  I still think I need a linear.

MartyB

Sure sounds like it!  I wonder why this topic doesn't come up more often.  After all this is a useful pedal.  Probably wouldn't take much for diyers to cobble one together with a rocker pedal even. - just one passive component.  The old Colorsound wahs have a simple, neat cam-style mechanism that doesn't require the gear/rack and pinion junk.

MartyB

Outlaws

Quote from: MartyBSure sounds like it!  I wonder why this topic doesn't come up more often.  After all this is a useful pedal.  Probably wouldn't take much for diyers to cobble one together with a rocker pedal even. - just one passive component.  The old Colorsound wahs have a simple, neat cam-style mechanism that doesn't require the gear/rack and pinion junk.

MartyB

ugh.....

lol  I was hoping for the last piece of info that would save me from a drive to the store tomorrow.  :(  O well.  Funny thing is...I bough linear when I first had the idea to make this, but then after researching I returned them for audio.  I am gonna look like a dumbass now.   :oops:


Anyways, ya, I don't see why this isn't a more popular idea for pedals.  IMO this is better than a boost for 90% of stuff.  I mean, boosters have their place because they only way to get 110% out of a tube amp is to overdrive it, but most tube amps would have plenty of nice tone by just turning them up that much more rather than adding the inherent noise that boosting the signal does.

And fit everything in a 1590A.  I am quite proud of myself for that part of this.

Outlaws

I just opened up my LP and I see that the volume pots are wired a bit differently.


lug 1 is bent over and soldered to the back of the pot.

Lug 2 is going to the toggle

Lug 3 is going to the tone pot with what looks like a Mylar cap.



I am thouroughly confused now.

Satch12879

DIYguitarist has one of these on his website.  It's called the "SoloPro."
Passive sucks.

Progressive Sound, Ltd.
progressivesoundltd@yahoo.com

Paul Marossy

Oh yeah, my Solo Pro. I need to break that out again.
Here's a link to my schematic on that: http://www.diyguitarist.com/PDF_Files/SoloPro.pdf

I recently revised the schematic because I redesigned the LED power scheme. The treble bleed caps should counteract any tendency for tone sucking when the volume pots are turned down kinda low. The backs of the pots are what is shown on the schematic.

Outlaws

Quote from: Satch12879DIYguitarist has one of these on his website.  It's called the "SoloPro."

Very cool.  Thank you.  Thats exactly like I had it hooked up about 5 mintues ago.  lol  ....minus the caps...

skatingbasser

Sorry everyone, but I'm new...

Where might one find the parts in said solo-pro schematic?

Is there a good online catalogue or warehouse?

Outlaws

Quote from: skatingbasserSorry everyone, but I'm new...

Where might one find the parts in said solo-pro schematic?

Is there a good online catalogue or warehouse?

Mouser.com would have everything for sure (and cheap), but AES will be easier to find what you are looking for IMO.

Also, if you skip the LEDs you can use a (less expensive) DPDT switch and (best off all) not need a battery or wallwart.

skatingbasser

Quote from: Outlaws
Mouser.com would have everything for sure (and cheap), but AES will be easier to find what you are looking for IMO.

Also, if you skip the LEDs you can use a (less expensive) DPDT switch and (best off all) not need a battery or wallwart.

Thanks alot for your help!

runmikeyrun

A little something i built for our guitarist to get cleaner tones out of his JCM 800...





hope that helps.
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