Stickers or Decals?

[E-money]

A question of preference to those who have used both, or had great success with one or the other.  I'm finishing my first project and I'm currently designing the graphics.
I've ordered some deskjet decals from Small Bear, but I remember decals being difficult to work with (I was a kid at the time).
What works, what doesn't, what are the pro's and cons?  What looks better, what lasts longer?  What is the meaning of life?

[E-money]

bump

[dosmun]

I just used sticker sheets on a couple of peds and they work great.  Basically like the iron on stuff but without the extra hassle.

[phillip]

I use the laser printer decal sheets from Small Bear.  The ones he carries now don't need to have a clear lacquer sprayed over the toner before being applied, and they go on great.

I use them in my low-priced HP desktop laser printer.

Phillip

[KORGULL]

I've used the (inkjet) decal sheets from Small Bear and am very happy with the results. When you first place the decal on the box it is easy enough to slide it around and get it straight while it is still wet.
You should clear coat the decal right after it is printed to avoid damaging the ink.
Don't apply decals over very dark colors 'cause it'll just fade into the background.
I spray 2-3 coats of clear laquer to the whole pedal after applying the decals.
I used stickers on a black pedal once - it got the job done but the overall look wasn't as seamless as with decals.

[brett]

Hi.
I normally use laser decals.  They give a very detailed finish.  I apply them to boxes that have been powdercoated in silver.

However, I recently built an amp in a black case, and used some kid's stickers.  They were bright reflective red with gold trim, and everyone has commented on the far-out result.  For $2 a pack they are groovy, but I haven't tried top-coating them yet.  Also, they are a bit thick and will catch on anything they are bumped against.

cheers
Brett Robinson

[ryanscissorhands]

Help me out here, the Small Bear *Laser* decal says that you "soak off" the toner. I assumed that it had to be melted off. . .

AND

Could you use PnP Blue to transfer toner?

[onboard]

I'm gunning for self-adhesive clear laser film and skip the soak-off step altogether. Print, peel, & apply.

edit With respect to E-money's last question, I belive I was once told that the meaning of life is 3. I should download the datasheet, though.

[phillip]

Help me out here, the Small Bear *Laser* decal says that you "soak off" the toner. I assumed that it had to be melted off. . .

AND

Could you use PnP Blue to transfer toner?

The laser printer decal paper (and inkjet printer decal paper) has a special coating on one side that works just like the water-slide decals that model kits use.  You print the decals onto the paper using a laser printer, and the toner adheres to the coating on one side of the paper.  Be sure to print on the side with the coating!  It's usually the glossy side.  

Then you trim closely around the edge of the decal(s) and soak it in luke warm water until the film/coating that the toner is stuck to slides freely from the paper backing.  Then you place it on the pedal where you want it and gently pat it dry with a paper towel...making sure to press out any air bubbles from underneath the decal if there are any.  Then let it sit and dry for a few hours and clear coat it a few times with clear lacquer for a really nice shine...and it also protects the decals.

Phillip

[dr]

......nope-its four!......(its three only if you leave town,or if your'e not from around here)

[dr]

......nope-its four!......(its three only if you leave town,or if your'e not from around here)

[ryanscissorhands]

Sorry, a question bump.

Can PnP be used to transfer toner for decals?

AND can you use PnP for any color other than black?

[onboard]

Sorry if this has already been covered, I ran a handful of creative searches too - what type of clearcoat doesn't dissolve the laser toner? Philip, you mentioned lacquer and all I seem to see on the shelf is sold as acrylic lacquer. The one time I tried that, the toner promptly dissolved and my graphics ran :cry:

[brett]

Hi.  Good quality auto topcoat does a good job, and doesn't melt toner.
cheers
PS1 Maybe the answer is a number so close to three that you can't tell the difference and you get it all wrong.
PS2 Life is like a beanstalk.  Isn't it?

[onboard]

I did use good quality auto top coat    Trial and error gets frustrating....

On the upside though, laser printed graphics on clear laser film look fantastic. With the right toner setting on a full face decal that's carefully trimmed, the look is very "painted on". A good inkjet with the right settings is definately in the running also.

Come to think of it, the iron-on method gets pretty close to the silk screened look, too.

I gotta hand it to Zachary for eliminating the entire decal process and getting such a good look with hand painted graphics! Or anyone else, for that matter, who paints by hand.

[phillip]

Sorry, a question bump.

Can PnP be used to transfer toner for decals?

AND can you use PnP for any color other than black?

Nope, I doubt that PnP Blue can be used for decals.  It's only meant to be used as an etch resistor for copper circuit boards.  Any color toner would stick, but like I said, it can only be used as an etch resist since it leave that blue film on top of the toner that's remelted and stuck to the copper.  Removing the blue film usually removes the toner, too.

For a clear topcoat I also use an acrylic lacquer, which is what we used when I worked in the autobody repair business a few years back.  It dries fast and hard without needing to be baked on like enamels...I love the stuff.  Toners are sometimes different and I think that some can handle the lacquer while others can't.  I personally haven't had any problems with the toner dissolving under the lacquer.

Phillip