MXR DISt.+ script and Box letter?

[WorkBench]

Could anyone explain the difference between the MXR dist.+ script logo with no LED, and the later box letter model with no LED?  Thanks!
Chris

[brad]

I doubt there's any difference except the artwork.  The later LED versions had silicon diodes, though.

[Mark Hammer]

Though you are justified in wondering about issue differences in just about ANY pedal from the 1970's, in this case I suspect the major difference is that the silkscreened letters on the script version got worn off easier by your foot, and that's about it in this case.

I will note, however, that one I was loaned in 1978 or so (and I forget if it was script or not) did NOT have a capacitor in parallel with the diode pair.  I don't know ifthat was unique to the one I borrowed or not.

[Hal]

they have extra mojo, which OBVIOUSLY adds MEGA tone!

I think the reason old pedals have mojo, that is, some sound good, some don't, is that components slip out of spec.  So there are some "gems" out there - when they slip to better sounding values, and crap ones too.  Like fuzz faces - not _all_ old ones are good...

[petemoore]

I used to do DIST+ types, Blue Clipper, New Clipper, OD250...
 Right now though the *topper [for me at least] in the Single OA diode clipper to ground is the Liquid Drive...at Fuzz Central.

[Fret Wire]

Could anyone explain the difference between the MXR dist.+ script logo with no LED, and the later box letter model with no LED?  Thanks!
Chris

The only difference is carbon comp resistors on the script logo, and carbon film resistors on the early block logo non-led models.

They both used the 741 IC, tantulum caps for the 1uf's, ceramics for the other cap values, and 1N270 diodes. Same pot values: 500 rev. log for dist., and most of the time, 50k log for volume.

[Outlaws]

Can the 1N270 Germainium diodes be swapped into the newest versions without any other other changes?

[Fret Wire]

Into the reissues? Sure can...done it plenty of times. You'll get the original sound, but lose some volume compared to the silicon diodes. Fortunately, the reissues usually come with 47k log Omeg pots, so you'll still have decent volume compared to some of the block logo models that came with 10k volume pots for awhile. If that doesn't give you enough volume, you can lower the value of the 10k output resistor.

[WorkBench]

I put in silicon diodes and turn the dist all the way down and the level all the way up and use it as a constant boost for my signal.  It distorts a bit when i really push it, but it stays clean and barely colours my tone at all this way!  I found the germanium diode pair sound to be unusable compared to the dist I get from my modded TS9/808.  Don't get me wrong, I couldn't live without it, using it as a boost like I do!  Thanks for the replies!!!
Chris

[Outlaws]

If that doesn't give you enough volume, you can lower the value of the 10k output resistor.

Hmmm


How much is considered "lower"?  8k2, 6k8, 4k7?

Also, just to make sure I am looking at the right resistor....
The one in mine for R9 is a light blue color.  I don't know if thats a 1/2 watt or if its a different composition, but here is the color chart:  (it doesn't match up to the standard color chart on the back of the Radio Shack packages.

I am not sure which side is which, so this could be either direction ... reverse ording if needed.

Brown, Black, Black, Gold, Brown

Just out of curiosity, should R9 be the final resistor in the signal path?  It doesn't look like it is, but I could be wrong.
(I really don't think my R9 is the output resistor)


EDIT:

I am banking on it being my R7.  Its right before the Diodes and after the diodes there is only a cap and the 47K pot.

Here is the color code.  (still a light blue resistor)
Brown, Brown, Black, Black, Brown

Can someone please translate that for me?
Thanks.  

[Fret Wire]

You're describing metal film resistors (blue). Usually the reissues only have one of those by the dc jack. The rest should be carbon film (tan) resistors. In any event, look at the diodes. On one side is a .01 box cap, on the other side is the output resistor, which should be brown, black, orange, and gold. Drop it by half and see if there's enough volume for you.

[Outlaws]

You're describing metal film resistors (blue). Usually the reissues only have one of those by the dc jack. The rest should be carbon film (tan) resistors. In any event, look at the diodes. On one side is a .01 box cap, on the other side is the output resistor, which should be brown, black, orange, and gold. Drop it by half and see if there's enough volume for you.

In that case, they are all metal film except one.   :shock:

Nothing wrong with 1% tolerance imo.   :lol:

[petemoore]

EZ Test...
 to see what halving the output resistor will do sound wise, add a 10k to the 10k...clip it on or whatever, should be possible without heat cause it's parallel, to hear what about 5k there sounds like, should be noticably louder.

[Outlaws]

The metal film resistors at www.circuitspecialists.com are not blue.  Infact, on their finder they only have 4 colors to find the value.

I found this on the internet.

"Resistor body colors white and blue are used to mark non-flammable resistors and fusible resistors. If you encounter tjis type of resistor in the circuit do not replace it with normal reistor because this would cause fire danger is something goes wring in the circuit. Non-flammable resistors and fusible resisotrs are designed so that they don't catch fire when they overheat. When fusible resistor overheats it cuts the current flowing like a fuse."

I can't find any fusible resistors at my local shops online store though.  

[Fret Wire]

I've never seen a D+ with all metal film, but that's fine..a little quieter.  The important thing is you know which is the 10k output resistor.

Color alone isn't always an indicator of resistor type. Many of the military metal films are brown without stripes.

[Fret Wire]

The metal film resistors at www.circuitspecialists.com are not blue.  Infact, on their finder they only have 4 colors to find the value.(

Take a good look at the resistor pictures in the metal film section. The resistors have only 4 multiplier bands, they are carbon film 5%. They are using carbon film pics in the metal film section. The resistor calculator they have is for carbon film/comp, not metal film.

Scroll down a bit on this link, and you'll see a calculator for metal film.
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/resistrs.htm