What is the best way to go about painting a metal enclosure?  I just one one color and some black labels (in, out, level, sustain...)  What type of paint should I use?

Thanks

lotsa threads on this - you'll probably find more info searching than i could provide you...

but I use normal spray paint, and auto clears.  Works fine, idk what you're trying to achieve, though.

I just want a nice shiny metalic blue that won't scratch.  I'm guessing i sand, paint on the blue (is spray paint better then brushing?) and then spray on a clear coat?

prime with sandable primer.

Quote from: zeppmanI just want a nice shiny metalic blue that won't scratch.  I'm guessing i sand, paint on the blue (is spray paint better then brushing?) and then spray on a clear coat?

See some of my other threads that I have going on my Lacquer/Enamel experiments with this.... Your path of least resistance is to:

0) put on a mask...

1) Drill and sand the enclosure completely with 400 grit sandpaper - just clean off the outside really..

2) heat with lamp @about 150 degrees

3) while still warm - put on 2 light coats of self-etching primer let dry for 2+ hours

3) spray 1 -2 light coats of Plasti Kote Metal Flake Blue lacquer (the can has a picture of what looks like a backend of a late 1940's Ford...) letting dry for about 2 hours between coats (no baking needed with lacquer, but i put a lamp on it to get the ambient temp up to about 80 degrees)..

4) Gently rough up the areas where you are going to use decals with wet wet/dry 600 grit sand paper... Use soak-off laserjet decals from hobby shop or smallbear, use method on the back of solvent bottle (SOL in my case it the product I used...) to get the decals fused with the lacquer. Be careful and practice on this step - those decals are going to stick hard to the lacquer. wipe off excess solvent. Let dry for 2 hours.

5) Spray on 1 - 2 medium coats of Plasti Kote Truck/SUV clear coat (this stuff is actually a lacquer clear coat. Let dry over night...

6) Optionally - sand the intermediate coat with wet wet/dry 800 grit sand paper, but I don't do this.

7) You could wait a few days for drying further, but the last step is to buff out with machine polish - but I don't do this either - I just go with the satin/non-high gloss look - I think it looks better..

This is a rugged finish after it has dried for a few days... This is my best method so far...

Latter tonight I'll post some pictures of what I have done in my painting experiments.

Keep in mind you can't buy lacquer in some states ( Like MA. ) I have to drive to NH to buy it. Not sure what the laws are about having it shipped.

Kerry M

Thanks guys...

What is this "Plasti Kote" stuff?  

From what everyone is writing..I'm assuming your traditional spray paint from a hardware store won't cut it....

I think Plasti-kote is just the brand name. You should be able to find it at some hardware stores and places like K-mart/Wal-mart. Rustoleum makes a nice metallic blue also. Pretty sure I've seen them both at Wal-mart.
The primer is very important and probably harder to find than the topcoat paint. Don't forget to check out auto parts stores for paints.
mojotron, what primer did you use and where did you get it?

What brand primer should I use?

Quote from: mojotron

Quote from: zeppmanI just want a nice shiny metalic blue that won't scratch.  I'm guessing i sand, paint on the blue (is spray paint better then brushing?) and then spray on a clear coat?

See some of my other threads that I have going on my Lacquer/Enamel experiments with this.... Your path of least resistance is to:

0) put on a mask...

1) Drill and sand the enclosure completely with 400 grit sandpaper - just clean off the outside really..

2) heat with lamp @about 150 degrees

3) while still warm - put on 2 light coats of self-etching primer let dry for 2+ hours

3) spray 1 -2 light coats of Plasti Kote Metal Flake Blue lacquer (the can has a picture of what looks like a backend of a late 1940's Ford...) letting dry for about 2 hours between coats (no baking needed with lacquer, but i put a lamp on it to get the ambient temp up to about 80 degrees)..

4) Gently rough up the areas where you are going to use decals with wet wet/dry 600 grit sand paper... Use soak-off laserjet decals from hobby shop or smallbear, use method on the back of solvent bottle (SOL in my case it the product I used...) to get the decals fused with the lacquer. Be careful and practice on this step - those decals are going to stick hard to the lacquer. wipe off excess solvent. Let dry for 2 hours.

5) Spray on 1 - 2 medium coats of Plasti Kote Truck/SUV clear coat (this stuff is actually a lacquer clear coat. Let dry over night...

6) Optionally - sand the intermediate coat with wet wet/dry 800 grit sand paper, but I don't do this.

7) You could wait a few days for drying further, but the last step is to buff out with machine polish - but I don't do this either - I just go with the satin/non-high gloss look - I think it looks better..

This is a rugged finish after it has dried for a few days... This is my best method so far...

Latter tonight I'll post some pictures of what I have done in my painting experiments.

How long time does this process take?


Looks like pretty much work..


RB

Quote from: KORGULLI think Plasti-kote is just the brand name...

It is a really common brand of paint products... lacquer and enamel.

Quote from: KORGULL
mojotron, what primer did you use and where did you get it?

I use "Acid 8" primer - only because it's carried at a local car paint supplier.... I think Eastwood primer http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1116&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=375&iProductID=1116 is better stuff.. that's what Smallbear sells. Any place that sold epoxy paint would likely cary self-eching primer.

I would use the Eastwood stuff...

By the way, I discovered a better technique for toner transfer for making boards, actually made several perfect PCBs last night - I was so happy with making some board sets that I never got around to posting my paint experiment's pics - I will post these tonight.

I know this sounds stupid, but what is machine polish?   :roll:

Quote from: zeppmanI know this sounds stupid, but what is machine polish?   :roll:

Finesse-It II Machine Polish http://autopia.org/review/censura.php?cmd=details&itemid=47


If you want to get the same gloss as polyurethane, with lacquer durability.. you need to polish it with this stuff... which I use when I finish guitars....

I know this is an older post, but where it's in the Wiki I figure it must still get some pretty regular views. What I do, instead of primer, is trivalent chromate. Not everyone has access to this kind of thing but what it does is slightly color (gold/yellowish) but also primes the surface for paint better than any canned stuff out there. Literally acts like a magnet for paint. Best of all, no need to sand because the chromate literally bonds with the aluminum. Stays perfectly smooth. Another note, this will only work with aluminum enclosures.