Link for drilling enclosures (diameters for various parts)

Started by powerplayj, March 21, 2005, 08:31:32 PM

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powerplayj

Someone posted some fantastic info the other day and I forgot to bookmark it like a dummy.  Anyone have a link or info for various drilling diameters of pots, 3DPDT switches, jacks, AC jacks, LEDs w/bezel, etc.?

Thanks
builds completed: boutique fuzz, rangemaster, BSIAB2, PT-80, Tonepad wah, Ross Comp, Axis Fuzz, MOSFET boost, Thunderchief, Big Muff (triangle), Mr. EQ, Dr. Boogey,  Neovibe, Dist+, EA Tremelo, ADA Flanger, RM Octavia
next build(s): ???

petemoore

Get a Varibit, try it on a clamped scrap piece...
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

powerplayj

Yeah, I was planning on making a varibit / unibit purchase but I have access to a drill press at work.  I was hoping to have all the exact diameters marked  (for my pots, jacks, etc) so that I can drill it quickly before any one else arrives at work and gets in my business.
builds completed: boutique fuzz, rangemaster, BSIAB2, PT-80, Tonepad wah, Ross Comp, Axis Fuzz, MOSFET boost, Thunderchief, Big Muff (triangle), Mr. EQ, Dr. Boogey,  Neovibe, Dist+, EA Tremelo, ADA Flanger, RM Octavia
next build(s): ???

Peter Snowberg

I would use different sizes depending on the resolution of the bits at hand and the parts to be mounted.

There is such a variety of parts that I wouldn't depend on any lists. I just grab my dial caliper and measure. It's always better to work form actual measurements than from theoreticals.
Eschew paradigm obfuscation

dpresley58

I have to agree with Peter on this one. Of course, I'm pretty new at this, so I'm running through parts from various suppliers trying to settle on what's going to work for me regularly.

I also leave some room for finish to accumulate. The first build was drilled to tighter tolerances without considering that. When I mounted the hardware, I got several chips in the finish.

Have fun.
Little time to do it right. Always time to do it over.

lethargytartare

Get that scrap of metal, and drill a series of holes with your unibit, one for each stage of the bit.  Then before you go to work you can use the template to check the specific parts you're using that day, and plan out which hole size to drill.  And I'd use permanent marker to mark the stage of the drill that you're drilling to and the hole on the box with a matching color, then you can get set up and just fly through your marks (e.g. drill all the blues, then the reds, etc.).

robotboy

These are the measurements that I've been using, and they work perfectly. I yanked this from a thread titled, "stocking your bench". Don't forget to keep your drill bit well oiled.

T1-3/4 LED bezel, mini toggles - 1/4" (6mm)
T1-3/4 LED without bezel - 3/16"(5mm)
16mm pot - 9/32" (7mm)
24mm pot - 5/16" (8mm)
audio jacks - 3/8" (10mm)
footswitches - 15/32" (12mm) for a perfect fit w/o washers,
1/2" is fine if you use the white plastic washer included with 3PDT's, Carlings don't include washers.

onboard

-Ryan
"Bound to cover just a little more ground..."

Hal

a caliper is one of my most used tools when drilling _anything_.

Not even to read the size - just masure the bit against the thing you need to fit through...

Speeddemon

Quote from: robotboyThese are the measurements that I've been using, and they work perfectly. I yanked this from a thread titled, "stocking your bench". Don't forget to keep your drill bit well oiled.

T1-3/4 LED bezel, mini toggles - 1/4" (6mm)
audio jacks - 3/8" (10mm)
.
in my experience, a 5mm LED holder needs an 8mm hole.

Also, regarding the jacks, while 10mm is good for just the cilinder, you could use 12,5mm (1/2") if you wanted to use those washers to isolate Switchcraft open type jacks.
Meanwhile @ TGP:
"I was especially put off by the religious banterings written inside the LDO pedal. I guess he felt it was necessary to thank God that someone payed $389 for his tubescreamer!"

Peter Snowberg



One of the best tools you have after the basics are covered. They measure depth, inside diameter, and outside diameter.

I like analog ones more than digital versions.

I wish I had one that did both metric and archaic measuring systems. Some of the digital ones tell you both at a glance which is really nice.

The dial ticks above are 1000ths of an inch. You can easily guestimate down to a 10000th of an inch. Just get a good one. The dial is built like a watch inside with features like anti-backlash gears. You can get the one above (which is what I use) for about $20 in some places... or $80 in others. The same unit is made in China and branded a bunch of different ways.

$16 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47257
$16 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5647
$20 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31337
$40 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6265 With computer interface port for true geekdom! :D
Eschew paradigm obfuscation

powerplayj

Quote from: robotboyThese are the measurements that I've been using, and they work perfectly. I yanked this from a thread titled, "stocking your bench". Don't forget to keep your drill bit well oiled.

T1-3/4 LED bezel, mini toggles - 1/4" (6mm)
T1-3/4 LED without bezel - 3/16"(5mm)
16mm pot - 9/32" (7mm)
24mm pot - 5/16" (8mm)
audio jacks - 3/8" (10mm)
footswitches - 15/32" (12mm) for a perfect fit w/o washers,
1/2" is fine if you use the white plastic washer included with 3PDT's, Carlings don't include washers.

Excellent info!  Thanks!  I was able to mark these and knock out the drilling in minutes.

btw - my 3/4 LED bezel also needed a 5/16" bit
builds completed: boutique fuzz, rangemaster, BSIAB2, PT-80, Tonepad wah, Ross Comp, Axis Fuzz, MOSFET boost, Thunderchief, Big Muff (triangle), Mr. EQ, Dr. Boogey,  Neovibe, Dist+, EA Tremelo, ADA Flanger, RM Octavia
next build(s): ???

onboard

I know what the confusion was on the T 1- 3/4 bezels - 1/4" (6mm) is a perfect fit for me to use just the inner sleeve of a two piece.

Nothing goes under the drill press without double checking what I have jotted down. Drilling the right size the first time is the way to do it.

Grab one of those travel toothbrush holder tubes to keep your bits together.
-Ryan
"Bound to cover just a little more ground..."

Satch12879

There's always the manufacturers' cut sheets, which is what I rely on.  They have at minimum the dimensions of the part but often the mounting hole sizes and shapes as well.  Examples: Neutrik, VCC, and Bulgin.
Passive sucks.

Progressive Sound, Ltd.
progressivesoundltd@yahoo.com

Doug_H

Quote from: Peter Snowberg
$16 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47257

Slightly OT but something I'm very happy about:  I just discovered a Harbor Freight down the road from me. Time to go shopping... :D

Doug

onboard

I *need* one of those! Might be a teensy bit more accurate than the plastic Family Handyman drill guide card I keep by the parts bin 8)
-Ryan
"Bound to cover just a little more ground..."

Peter Snowberg

Watch out... you can't assume that a pot with a particular body diameter has a particular shaft diameter.

It just doesn't work that way :!:

The same manufacturer will in many cases offer multiple shaft diameters.

Measure three times.... drill once. ;)
Eschew paradigm obfuscation

onboard

Sorry Peter, I didn't even think of that when I posted the list'o bits. :oops:

I recommend everyone get a subscription to Family Handyman for the free drill bit sizing card.
-Ryan
"Bound to cover just a little more ground..."