Inkjet Decal Stock from Small Bear...how do you use it?

[sir_modulus]

Now, yes, I tried the search function...but there are so many small mentions of methods of using it...like...do I need to spray something on it? Do I just print it? How do I get it from the sheet onto the box? What can I spray on it?

I'm completely clued out here...any help is GREATLY appreciated!

Cheers,

Nish

[MartyB]

OK.  IMPORTANT NOTE:  the decal will be translucent and the color of the pedal will show through (unless you've bought special paper).  You may want the area of the decal to be pre-underpainted with white enamel spray .  I usually print a 'draft quality' print of my intended decal.  Then I cut out a piece of decal paper alittle larger than the image (about 1/8th inch  is adequate - this serves two purposes).  I then set the printer to photo quality, tape the decal over the draft image and run that same piece of paper back through the printer in the same orientation.  Be careful to tape about 1/16th of the free edges of the decal but don't get tape over the intended image. After the print comes out, I let it dry overnight.  Then it gets sprayed with Krylon Clearcoat, allowing plenty of time between coats to dry (usually overnight).  You need at least two coats, better three.  When this is dry, you're ready to transfer to your pedal. The decal gets soaked (face-up works best for me) until it ALL easily slides off the backing paper. I soak mine in a small dish - you only need enough water to immerse the deca.  It will tend to roll up at first.  Just help it into a flat configursation until its wet and laying flat on its own.   Don't get in a hurry with this step.  I kinda pre wet the pedal surface before laying down the decal.  I then gently pick up the free decal and apply it to the general area of the pedal.  It will freely slide around so don't worry about perfect placement yet.  Gently finger-squeegee out the excess water and blot it away.  This speeds up drying and helps me get the decal perfectly flat.  Then I allow the pedal to dry overnight again in its final position, as flat as I could get with the wet finger squeegee method.  As it gets drier, it will move less freely.  When this becomes alittle difficult you really want it to be in its final position pretty quickly because moving it now runs risk of tearing it.  If you printed it with at least an eighth of clear border around the image you want, then no water damage will occur.  If part of the image is on the edge of the decal, then the water-soulble inks may run and this part of the image may be damaged.  When its nice and dry you can trim away the clear flange carefully with a sharp hobby knife.  Clearcoat over the whole pedal at least twice more, after the decal is placed.  Here's how some look:

http://www.freewebs.com/martyb/pedals.htm

HTH
MartyB

[bluesdevil]

I've used it a couple of times with good results so far.  Just put it through your printer (high resolution photo paper mode worked for me)and let dry (I wait at least a day). Then cut out the decals from the sheet and give it a quick light mist with the clear coat you are gonna use (laquer, enamel or acrylic but not polyurethane directly 'cause it melts it). wait 10 or so minutes give it another hot but a little thicker. Give it a day or so to dry and then use a bowl of tepid water to soak it in for a minute or two. I like to wet the area I place the decal on the box so you can sllide it around a bit and doesn't tear. Once you get it in place, carefully AND I MEAN VERY carefull press out any bubbles under the decal (you can use your finge or a soft wet sponge or cotton swab). Let it dry for as long as it needs.... the longer the better to prevent problems when applying the overcoat. I'd give it a few days and check for bubbles that might cause wrinkling. You could also have a fan lightly blow in it's direction to help speed it up, but you don't want dust or other particles getting on it while it's drying so be careful.
       When it's good and dry, put a light mist of clear over everything to prevent any problems with ink running. Wait 10 minutes and start applying the normal coats.
       I found you can bake with decals if you use clear enamel over it.... 1 hour at a little under 150 degrees worked for me. Also I like to spray polyurethane (Eastwood Diamond Coat) after I bake on my enamel clear. (don't bake that!!) for extra durability. Hope that helps and good luck!!

[sir_modulus]

Hmm...that's what I basically ascertained from what was in the forum. Now...for some questions: first off, can you see a film around the decal? is it clearly visible? Is there anything you can do to remove it? is [url = http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=32&SBL=1]this[/url] good enough for a clear coat (it's the clear gloss one)?

Cheers,

Nish

P.S. Thanks for the help marty!  

[bluesdevil]

That's the clear enamel I use..  If you want to avoid the edges a bit, make your decal the size of your case top with all the printing on one piece.

[sir_modulus]

Alrighty! Thanks so much Bluesdevil, now does anyone have a picture of these "edges" so I can see what they look like?

Cheers,

Nish

[bluesdevil]

I think the pics at Fuzz Central (can't remember URL) is a good example of  using a one piece top decal to keep the edges almost invisble, I don't wanna point someone out as a bad example so look around a bit , hahaha!!!

[Connoisseur of Distortion]

i, myself, recently ventured into the true cheapness of decals. I bought some of the clear labeling paper (25 8.5x11 for $22), and created my decals with The Print Shop Premier (using the quarter fold for my 1590BB worked alright). I then cut out my decals, and stuck them (yes, the labeling paper is good and sticky   ) on the pedal. Then i gave it a couple layers of clearcoat...

some tips, if you decide to give it a try...

select a border to go around the pedal, then cut around the border as close as possible (you can see the outline of the transparency, so this might fool an observer)

sand thoroughly prior to sticking! (or use 0000# steel wool)

use a credit card (or similar plastic card) to smooth out the paper: if there is an air gap, this stuff will let you know by being ugly as sin.

if it does not look transparent enough to you, you probably need to use said method to move out the air.

make sure that all edges are VERY WELL stuck down, or else they may stand up even under your clearcoat!!!

do NOT mistake primer for clearcoat!  :x


EDIT: said paper was purchased at office depot

[boogielicious]

Have you guys tried/found a clear coat that is not glossy?  I would like a more satin finish so the gloss doesn't make it hard to see the graphic.  All I've found are glossy clear coats.

Thanks,

Scott

[Torchy]

Krylon Multi-Surface Clear Matt 38166/30789/TB ...

... thats whats on the cap anyway

[sir_modulus]

Thanks everybody for all your help!

Cheers,

Nish

P.S. Make sure the clear coat says "Clear Gloss" otherwise it can be a matte coat.

[boogielicious]

Thanks Torchy,

Scott

[sir_modulus]

Any one else have any advice?

Cheers,

Nish