Breadboarding is awesome.

Started by brad, March 27, 2005, 08:28:00 AM

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brad

I just completed my first breadboard build -Ges' Bad Trip- and I think I'm hooked!  This really is a great medium for quickly trying out ideas and tweaking circuits...and it's lead free!  In fact, I like breadboard so much that I've already packed away my normal pedal making gear.

My cool new breadboarding pencil case o' creativity contains:
* 840 tie point breadboard
* pre-cut solid core wire
* Futurlec resistor, ceramic, electro, and mylar cap value packs, and assorted trimmers
* Two 1/4" sockets and a battery clip with solid core wire attached
* assorted ICs and transistors mounted in conductive foam in a small plastic case
* NO SOLDER  :o

It's like having an analog multi-effects unit where the number of effects and tones available is only limited by the amount of tie points on your breadboard.  Highly recommended!  8)

DiyFreaque

Careful Brad.  It's not required by law, but they should put warning label on all breadboards "Using breadboards can be highly addictive".   :D

I've got something like 11 breadboards, and they're always full.  I've had an enire synth on breadboard, and most of my 'modules' still are breadboarded!  Believe it or not, the EG I've used for the past three years is on breadboard, and one of my VCO's is coming up on three years as well.  Both still work...

Cheers,
Scott

PB Wilson

Brad- Where did you get yours and what's the cost (if you don't mind me asking)? I've lost my old rat shack breadboard in a move and was looking to get another one with all the trimmings.

Maybe I should open this up to everyone: What should I look for in a medium-sized breadboard that can handle most of the guitar effects shared on this site?

ninoman123

Breadboarding is also nice to see how compact you can make something before you perf/veroboard it.  :P

Hal

2 tips -

Put a dpdt toggle on the jacks for true bypass
make a nice ($5) power supply

ESPguitar

Quote from: DiyFreaqueCareful Brad.  It's not required by law, but they should put warning label on all breadboards "Using breadboards can be highly addictive".   :D

I've got something like 11 breadboards, and they're always full.  I've had an enire synth on breadboard, and most of my 'modules' still are breadboarded!  Believe it or not, the EG I've used for the past three years is on breadboard, and one of my VCO's is coming up on three years as well.  Both still work...

Cheers,
Scott

I only have 1 :cry:

:P

Then i can consentrate on one thing at the time:)
RB

onboard

Quote from: Hal2 tips - Put a dpdt toggle on the jacks for true bypass

Absolutely. If you're toggling the circuit, remember to include your pulldown resistors - or even permanently attach them to the jack tips.

Something else worth doing is attaching a plate with holes drilled for swapping pots in and out. My rig only handles 3, but there's been times when 4 or more would come in handy.

Go nuts.
-Ryan
"Bound to cover just a little more ground..."

Peter Snowberg

Here's an addition for you.... now mount the breadboard on a small block of 1/2 inch thick wood (I like oak or hardwoods in general, but pine or plywood is fine too).

Make the block a little larger so you can also mount a 9V battery holder and a piece of "L" channel aluminum with a bunch of holes drilled in it.

Drill holes for and mount a pair of jacks for in and out, a dpdt toggle for true bypass as Hal suggested, and a 9V 2.1mm adapter jack in one end, and make holes in the other end for pots and switches. The more holes the better. :D

Using rotary switches during prototyping to quickly try out multiple part values/configurations is great because you and A/B compare with the flick of a switch.

Wire up the 9V jack to a 9V snap connector and get a Lithium 9V battery. They'll last forever in a simple circuit.

#
#<--- Aluminum extrusion, long enough for 2 1/4" jacks, a 9V jack
#     and four to eight holes for pots and switches. More=Better
#
# <---- Holes at this height
#
#
#           Below: $ = screw
#
#
#              
#                   breadboard
#  $$$    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
####$###  %                                %
+---$-------$----------------------------$-----+
|   $       $                            $     |
|   $       $                            $     |
|   $       $                            $     |
|                                              |
+----------------------------------------------+
Eschew paradigm obfuscation

brad

Those are great ideas!   :o

...and PB Wilson: my breadboard cost about AU$18 and looks like this...
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_2355.jpg

I'd say it's big enough for your average overdrive/distortion/fuzz circuit, but I'm pretty sure you can lock several of them together if you want to build a uh...modular synth?  :shock:  I think I remember seeing puretube and Zachary post some crazy multi breadboard builds too.

H.Manback

Quote from: Hal2 tips -

Put a dpdt toggle on the jacks for true bypass
make a nice ($5) power supply

Both good tips, I just want to add one thing.

Make sure the power supply is protected against short circuiting or overload! Breadboards are very good for prototyping, but it is also an accident waiting to happen :wink:. You might end up frying a lot of stuff when you use a unprotected power supply, even if it is low voltage. Something along the lines of a 250mA fuse or maybe even 100mA is adequate, though not very practical. Making a regulated supply with a suitable LM317 (one with 100mA limit for instance) is a good idea.

brad

Funny you should say that because I accidently shorted the battery and left it simmering away for about 4 minutes before noticing.  HOT BATTERY.

Is something like this what you're suggesting, H.Manback?



...a 250mA fuse and a 9v regulator?

H.Manback

That looks quite ok, maybe you could use a adjustable regulator instead for some future projects that might require 12v for instance. But that's up to you.

Make sure you get a robust regulator though! Overheating protection, short circuit protection, current limiting at a safe value, you can get it all for 1$ ;) LM117/LM317 is the pretty standard way to go, can't really go wrong with that.

Also check if you need a heatsink, the IC can dissipate about 1W I believe.

Oh, and the main advantage of this is that you can use a transformer for it :D . Just stick a transformer with rectifier and capacitor before the regulator, and you will never need to change batteries again! And add a switch of course.

R.G.

R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

H.Manback

Nice...

I think I'm going to make a little box or something with banana connector points for a couple of jacks and a switch and the like. But I think I'm not going to really attach my breadboard to it, since that might be awkward when not working on FX.

I think I'll make some little connectors to attach different pots as well... Oh well, so many ideas, so little time :wink:

Is that your board R.G.? (the name Proto-Fex makes me think it is actually :D)

A DPDT or 3PDT toggle switch might be useful too, preferably NOT a stomp switch, I know I really hate pressing those things when they aren't mounted :lol: