I think I screwed up my small clone. (Voltage check inside)

[Karmasound]

I had it running and every thing was ok.



Then I decided to change the 1uf cap by Q2.

Soooo I put the heatsink on Q2 then changed my cap and when I plugged it back in I realized I had forgetten to take off the heatsink.

I couldn't get any sounds and couldn't get it to bias in. I replaced Q1,2,&3.

The cap back to 1uf and replaced the diodes and the 4558 and lm358.


I'm not able to get it to bias up like before. So i'll  go over it tomorrow and jeck solder joints and stuff, and get some voltages.


Any ideas off the top of your heads, without knowing voltages?

Could I have screwed up the precious expensive chip? :shock:

[H.Manback]

Heatsink?!?!?!

Maybe I'm missing the obvious here, but where do you need a heatsink on the small clone :shock:

[NaBo]

LOL

He was desoldering and soldering a cap so he heatsinked the nearby transistor.  There's clip-on ones for soldering and desoldering heat-sensitive components (or around them).  Traces and leads have the nasty habit of cunducting heat in addiction to electricity... I learned that the hard way.  ("Hey!  OW, $%(#!!!  THIS IS BURNING ME AND ITS NOWHERE NEAR WHERE I'M SOLDERING!!!   :x ... MAYBE I SHOULD STOP TOUCHING IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!")

Anyway, i hope you didn't screw up the precious expensive chip as well!  Spending 5 bucks on an IC is hard to do, let alone twice!

Clipping across all three leads means there's 9V DC on two traces there shouldn't be.  The original Q2 could be fine... all three lugs were at the same potential, and it was jumpered by the sink.  What you really need to worry about is where that 9V at the base and emitter pads decided to trailblaze its journey to 0V, and how much current got pulled through.  Myself, I have no clue... or... I'm too lazy to figure out all the math... yeah, that's it... we'll go with that  

Post more info and someone who knows what they're talking about will make things crystal clear for you... (and me!)

[Karmasound]

Here are some Voltages....


Q1                            I subbed 2n5089 for 5088
4. 5                      
4.07      
0            


Q2
8.85
1.34
1.35


Q3
8.58
8.46
7.46


RC4558                

*4.28  
4.32
4.21
.1
4.26
4.28
4.26
8.59


Mn3007
*7.95    
3.99
5.20
.1
.1
3.99
3.69
2.69
2.69

CD4047
*7.8
.80
6.9
7.94
7.94
7.94
.1
.1
.1
3.99
3.99
.1
7.81
7.94

Lm358
*1.6
3.92
3.90
.1
3.3 then swings back to 0
2.1
3.58 then swings to 0 and back
8.5  

.
Only mods are a speed cap mod and the depth pot. All mods worked prior to the heatsink incident.

[Karmasound]

I can get sound through the boad, just no chorusing.




:?  

[H.Manback]

Ah ok, I was thinking about heatsinks for operation

But to answer your question, you say you can get sound out of it, but no chorus... I am very sorry to tell you, there is a big chance the MN3007 is fried...

I had exactly the same problem, but in my case it was a soldering error on the MN3007 (forgot one lead :oops:).

Poke around the circuit some more, and if you are confident it's the MN3007, get a IC socket! They don't cost a fortune, and this way you do not risk frying your costly IC.

Reading your story again makes me wonder if the MN3007 would actually be damaged by shorting Q2... I don't see any reason for the MN3007 to have to deliver excessive currents... Are you sure you only shorted the leads of Q2? Because that wouldn't give that much problems it seems. 10k resistor to ground, 39k on the base, I don't see any path to draw a lot of current.

Did you hear anything frying on the board at all?

[Karmasound]

I used sockets for the IC's but I left the chips in since I wasn't soldering near them.

When I pluged it in with the heatsink on I didn't hear anything.


I'm just going to break down and get another one.


If it works than I know what happened.

If it turns out that is was something else than i'll use the mn3007 for a flanger