Going to start rolling my own PCBs soon-a few questions

[KORGULL]

I've been reading alot about these topics lately, so maybe I can add a couple tips and my two cents in general:
    I just made a couple boards last week using the copying machine and the glossy paper at Kinko's. I found that I needed to use the hottest setting on my iron and very hard pressure for a couple of minutes to get the toner to transfer to the copper board properly. The first two tries hardly did anything due to a conservative heat setting and light pressure - I read that too much pressure and/or heat can make the toner traces melt and smear together, but I guess that mostly applies to PNP blue or some other higher quality papers than what I had. The high heat and max. pressure worked great in my case.
   
With Ammonium Persulphate, don't use a sharpie or similar etch resist pen for touch-ups, it will eat through it. I tested it on an unused piece of my board and most of it disappeared. A paint marker I used held up great, and I suspect a wite out pen might work O.K. too. I used a "Zig" brand "Crafty" pen from a craft/fabric store.
   
I used Ammonium Persulphate to etch.
Mixed about 1 part AP crystals to 4 parts water in a thick freezer bag with a plastic "zipper" for a positive seal. I bought a cheapo plastic wash tub - about 6 in. deep which I filled with boiling water - also used the hot water to make the AP solution. Put the board inside the bag and submerged it in the tub of hot water. I made sure the copper side of the board stayed in contact with the solution and kept shaking it - only had about 1 inch deep of solution in the bag. I wore semi-thick rubber gloves and was able to get my hands in the very hot water for short times without too much problem. Completely etched two boards - a PT-80 delay and a Small Clone in about 5 min. I think the hotter the water is, the faster it goes.
   
I was expecting some nasty fumes, so I had a fan set up to blow out a window right above the tub - but I didn't notice any smell/fumes whatsoever - mostly due to the sealed bag I guess. There was much more stink from the iron/paper.
Check with your local township, they may have an occasional household hazardous waste drop-off site where you can take your used etchant for proper disposal.
   
To get a cool green color on your board and seal the copper at the same time try Testor's transparent emerald green spray enamel, #1256 or #1601(same product new #). I bought a can but haven't tried it yet. I saw on a DIY PCB site where a guy recommends it. He says you can spray it on right after etching and when you go to solder, the heat will vaporize it at that spot - leaving a coating on the traces right up to each joint.
I will probably just spray it on after populating the board.
   
If I were going to make pedals to sell and needed more than a few boards I would go with a pro board maker like Express PCB and just figure that expense into the price of the pedal. When you figure how much your time is worth, it might even be cheaper going the pro route.
Good luck.

[mojotron]

I get my etchent from RS - the dude there always gives me the evil eye... like I'm making a bomb or something...

Yep, i've gotten that look too and i'm a fairly straight looking dude. ... I personally like the ziploc baggie method for etching(which i of course learned about rummaging thru these wonderful archives)...

The archives here are pure gold!!

I thought I would dred the etching phase when I started doing this, but this has become the part I really look forward to the most when I am doing a batch of boards...  this is mostly due to ideas like the baggie method.... and I got that idea from the same thread I think... which have made it so easy to produce quality boards - which is really exciting when the board is your design and layout...  

[rubberlips]

The alternative etchant is ammonium persulfate I believe. One disadvantage (if it's even a disadavantage to you) is that the ammonium does not come in liquid form - you have to mix it.  (although reading the prev. response maybe you can find it in liquid? i've only ever seen powdered...).

That's the stuff, and well it come sin liquid form in Australia. Can't remember how much I paid for it, think about $10 for a 500mL bottle. But I've had a heap of ferric chloride so I thought I'd use that up first before cracking a fresh one  :wink:

How you accomplish this is your own business, but if your board, no matter what it is made of, has fingerprints, breath, or any source of oxidation or residue covering the bare copper, expect an awkward uneven etch.

I'm not normally too worried about the boards, just give them a quick scrub with steel wool and washing up detergent (no particular brand), wipe it, heat the board, iron on the toner, peel off while still a bit warm, check that there's no breaks, let the board cool and through it in the etch until done. Then clean the board and give i a coat of laquer. All done

Pete

[ExpAnonColin]

KORGULL, you are doing it exactly as I was expecting to.. thanks! I will use your post as a guide.

-Colin

[Mark Hammer]

I've been reading alot about these topics lately, so maybe I can add a couple tips and my two cents in general:
    I just made a couple boards last week using the copying machine and the glossy paper at Kinko's. I found that I needed to use the hottest setting on my iron and very hard pressure for a couple of minutes to get the toner to transfer to the copper board properly. The first two tries hardly did anything due to a conservative heat setting and light pressure - I read that too much pressure and/or heat can make the toner traces melt and smear together, but I guess that mostly applies to PNP blue or some other higher quality papers than what I had. The high heat and max. pressure worked great in my case.

Keep in mind that glossy paper is, after all, paper, and paper varies in stock weight.  Important to adjust ironing times/pressure to suit the thickness of the paper.  Equally important to make multiple copies of the same mask when you print them out, until you start to get a good feel for ironing time/pressure.  Also useful is a firm surface that provides good tactile feedback regarding your ironing force.  I like to use a nice smooth hunk of MDF board.