Did I fry my switch?

[stump_jumper]

When soldering wires to my 3PDT switch, i left the solder heat on each lug for several seconds at a time (my first time soldering, so i didnt know any better). I think at one point i had it on there for a good 10 seconds. Everything is now hooked up in my GCB-95 WAH, but I get no sound. When the wah is in the off position i can hear VERY faint sound from my guitar when my amp is cranked to 10.

So did I fry my switch? Any way to check it?

Thanks.

[niftydog]

do you have a multimeter?

If not, and you intend to continue electronics work, even basic stuff, you NEED one. No two ways about it. at this early stage a cheapy will do, just make sure it has continuity check.

Then it's a simple matter of checking to see if the switch has continuity as desired in both modes.

[stump_jumper]

I will look into a multimeter. I'm assuming I will use this by grounding one input and then using the other to check values at various points in the circuit?

I was also wondering, would it be advisable to take the 3PDT apart? Would I be able to see if it was fried and perhaps fix it? I've never looked inside these things so I have no idea.

Thanks.

[petemoore]

I'm pretty sure they can't be repaired.
 A DMM will tell what connections are being made or cut depending on switch position a or b.

[Ge_Whiz]

Yup, you need a DMM. On the bright side, it's pretty difficult to toast a stompswitch. If you succeeded, avoid that brand in future.

[gez]

I'm assuming I will use this by grounding one input and then using the other to check values at various points in the circuit?

No, you're not measuring voltages here (assuming the switch is at fault), as Nifty said you want a DMM with a continuity function.  Most DMMs have them, even the cheapest.  You connect the probes to the lugs of your switch and if there's 'continuity', ie no open circuit, the meter will make a beeping noise.  If there's no beep when there should be, the thing's buggered.  If you buy a meter without continuity just measure the resistance between the lugs.

The plastic around the lugs can melt if you solder too long (sorry, but this can be done with any brand  :oops: ), the lugs can then move about a little and that's how contact can be broken.

If the switch is ok, you'll still need a DMM for debugging, buy one!  

[stump_jumper]

OK, well here is an update (in case anyone cares and isnt sleeping at night )

I got myself a multimeter and tested a whole bunch of stuff. Cool little tool.

Anyways, when i was testing my switch i realized that it was wired incorrectly. Because it was a 3dpt i got confused and wired it up on its side. (if you know what i mean). I had to shift everything 90 degrees. Anyways, it works now and everything is cool. I guess I didnt butcher the soldering as badly as  I thought I did

:oops:

[niftydog]

There's should be a sticky at the top of the page that simply has the subject;

"Rule no. 1: Everybody needs a multimeter!"

aren't you glad you have one now!?

[Ge_Whiz]

First time I used a 3pdt I spent at least ten minutes with a DMM checking that I had it the right way round. Actually, EVERY time I use a 3pdt I spend ten minutes with a DMM checking that I have it the right way round!

[puretube]

the 1st time I used a 3PDT, I tried debugging the circuit for days on end,
until I found out: I fried the switch. thru overheating... (producing "static" noize - you had to push 3 to 5 times, to get a silent make/break connection)

(it was the prototype of what now is known as the "E-H Pulsar re-issue")

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

It seems pretty easy to fry those cheap x-wings. The plastic body melts & the pins lean over :shock:  :x  :cry:
I recommend tinning the posts quickly wiht solder & then tinning the wires you are connecting, then they go together neato quickly without havign to risk cooking the legs.
Also, I strongly suspect (though I can't confirm) that there may be some lubricant inside, that when you cook the switch, gets onto the contacts (with bad results).
Add ny vote to the "you must have a multimeter', 90% of my faults are solved by the continuity function. :wink:

[Manolo Dudes]

Also, I strongly suspect (though I can't confirm) that there may be some lubricant inside, that when you cook the switch, gets onto the contacts (with bad results).

I do can confirm that there's such lubricant in the Miyamas and that if it gets onto the contacts, the switching goes intermittent.

On the other hand, they can be easily opened and cleaned.

[puretube]

lemme add: I was referring to a "blue 3PDT"
(but I do remember I used a lot of heat for a long time... the lugs started moving)

[gez]

When I've had 'wilting lugs' (no, not a medical condition) it's been as a result of de-soldering when salvaging the switch out of a no longer used pedal.  On occasion, I've managed to save the switch by reheating the lug and pushing it back into place with a pair of pliers, just hold it steady until the plastic hardens again.  If you're lucky it will be solid when the plastic cools and the switch will work.

I hate de-soldering!  :roll:

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

On occasion, I've managed to save the switch by reheating the lug and pushing it back into place with a pair of pliers, just hold it steady until the plastic hardens again. ...I hate de-soldering!  :roll:

Gez, you might hate desoldering.. but I expect the components hate it more!

[gez]

Gez, you might hate desoldering.. but I expect the components hate it more!

It's a close run thing Paul!