Soldering Irons - FYI

[rutledj]

I went searching ebay for a (cheap) soldering iron to replace my crappy Radio Shack model that always seemed either too hot or not hot enough. Also needed something with a smaller tip (those tonepad circuits are really close together).

I ran accross one that appears very similar to a Weller for about $65. Didn't recognize the name so did a web search for it. Found this site:

http://www.mpja.com/viewallpict.asp?dept=460&main=

They had it for only $47.  Still couldn't find any info on them but I ordered one along with a bunch of tips (only $2 ea). Probably a asian import but hopefully it will be up to par.

Just curious if any of you have heard of or tried this particular iron.

Thanks,
Rut

[nelson]

I am still using one that cost about 3 pounds. The tip is lasting though and its not too bad at staying at a reasonable temp. I do plan on getting a better one, that one there looks good, but still a bit pricey.

[spudulike]

This is the one I use -



I bought it from Maplin for £9.99  :shock:

Order code is N78AR

• 50W soldering iron
• Adjustable temperature range
• Anti-static ground output
• LED power indicator
• Pack of 3 assorted tips available separately, Order Code N79AR (£4.99)

Used almost every day for last 4 months. Seriously recommended.

[nelson]

This is the one I use -



I bought it from Maplin for £9.99  :shock:

Order code is N78AR

• 50W soldering iron
• Adjustable temperature range
• Anti-static ground output
• LED power indicator
• Pack of 3 assorted tips available separately, Order Code N79AR (£4.99)

Used almost every day for last 4 months. Seriously recommended.

Thats on my shopping list

[corbs]

This is the one I use

i have that one too - it's nice but the tip that came with mine is round and a bit fine.

what types of solder do ppl use? i have some old 100% lead stuff and some new 60/40 stuff - does it make a difference?

[petemoore]

OT
 If I showed you a picture of my iron, you'd poop !!!
 This iron, 50 years or so old, never pooped though...Very Steady fairly high heat is all.
 It's 16-18''  long, wide, heavy, but I wrap a heavy duty solid core strand of copper around the tip, this becomes the new tip, and temperature controller...lol. The thin tip always instantly heat transfers, stays pointed as it 'evaporates' [actually they last PD Good] and never gets dull, a new tip can be made with the wire cutters and installed in a minute. Cost 50cents.
 I built all the other circuits using junk RS Irons, replacing the iron after about 3-4 tip changes, and wear, trim, use, trim, solder with those tips till there's not much left of them.
 See, I mount my solder iron in a brick, on a pan, in a box with an exhaust tube over it, the tip stays there, and I bring the board and iron to it for the most part. I can pull the iron out to do 'deep in box' work, inside the box is well lit, but infrequently I need more view and tip access angles than the box allows.
 This has advantages...and disadvantages. I know I'm not changing my method, sticking with what I'm accustomed to...I used to mount the board, then bring the iron and solder to it', but I found I saved alot of time and made less of a mess of things having the Iron stay put instead of having to mount the board after every part population increase, and had troubles securely mounting the board and at the best angle of access. I like having the hot iron just stay put for the most part, and this works good for the fumes exhaust design.
 Advantages:
 I can use my palm to steady the board during tip approaches and retreats, this equates to about 6'' from rest point to solder tip, very easy to control
 Tinning wires 'n such is too easy, hold the wire across the tip with a bit of wire end hanging over, start the heat transfer with a fresh tiny tinning, then it's easy to get a cool, fresh glob going at the tip of the wire I'm tinning...the tip of the wire and solder reach min. heat to get the solder and core [flux?] on there...still fresh.
 I dont' have to mount the board after putting part[s on it.
 I can use my finger to 'clamp' lead to the pad/socket leaf/... [leads bent with 'finesse lets me clamp 'em...finger on the cool end, through the board*]
 I don't fumble with a loose iron [as much]
 The 'other' hand still does the solder holding the same way...
 I can loosen and flip the board over/around quicker when I'm holding it in my hand
 All the fumes go up the tube
 I like that there is only One place to keep track of where it's burning hot
 The soldering jobs look great
 I tried the 'run a small exhaust tube' down to next to the tip of the iron, but an induction fan must be necessary to pull hard enough to get the fumes...a cooling or other fan don't do it...I opted to use a 4'' tube with a cooling fan.
 Disadvantages: You have to set it up and get used to it...took me about a minute though...uh...there's probably another one...?
 Not to criticize soldering stations as not really analyzed...I think 'they' have to give you something to hold the darn hot thing in, and people assume that's the best way because 'it came with the holder'...the best way, of course, in all cases is the way that works best for you.
 What's really funny is the RS 'soldering iron holders'...lol...I tried using that for a couple tries/iron drops...DOHH.

[nelson]

I populate the board stick it in a helping hand and  HOLD the soldering iron. I place it on what they use to place bunsen burners on, the name eludes me. I am not too paranoid about solder fumes so no ventilation apart from an open window, plus I use lead free solder (not that it smells any better). I just shorten and bend leads into place on board and the board "holds" the component. I do resistors first, then diodes, and save my trannies for last. I socket the opamps etc. This is the most efficient way I have found so far.


pete your method sounds archaic And WAY too complex a bit overkill. I would love to see a pic of your workspace.

:twisted:

What process does everyone else use?
This is interesting.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

http://www.mpja.com/viewallpict.asp?dept=460&main=
Rut

SMT tweezer for $12.95??? :shock:
you don't want to know what mine cost :x  :x  :x  :cry:

[H4T]

Whoa, nelson, thanks for posting about that soldering iron! I'm ordering one, that price is just too great to pass up!

I've been using a pretty basic iron from Ace Hardware. No temp control, no sponge, no station, nothing. My "station" was actually an opened Altoids tin, haha. The cable kept pulling the iron off the table, so I had to get up, run around the table and pick it up before it burned through my carpet, haha.

That station looks very, very nice for the price, w00t.

Edit: NOoooooooooo!!! They don't ship to the US! Why must they torture me so?! Damnit, lol.

[petemoore]

pete your method sounds archaic And WAY too complex a bit overkill. I would love to see a pic of your workspace.
  The iron part is self disclosure, it does work good though.
  Not to yes it is on it but not having to clamp and unclamp the board, have a clamp saves time and space I'm pretty sure.
 I'm saying my iron used to hit stuff like the floor, and it doesn't.
 I'm just suggesting, not recommending anyone try it.
 >>...the best way, of course, in all cases is the way that works best for you.
 Since now I'm defending the system, like I care, from being dubbed 'archaic', I've tried both ways, for above stated reasons which may not agree with yours, I prefer to have that burning hot iron mounted, the board cannot stay mounted like the iron and still get populated as easily, the AC Supply cord to the iron stays put too.
 This is pro method, don't try this at home.  :wink:

[jdjonsson]

Here's my iron. Only $50 and a really nice iron. It can use any of the weller tips. Weller WLC100 40 watt variable.

[Ben N]

As long as we're on the subject:  anyone know where to get a 220v iron IN the US?  I am heading abroad for a while, but I want to get my stuff in advance.

Ben

[Ge_Whiz]

FYI, I have one of those Maplin irons and I think it's crap. The temperature regulation is terrible - one moment it won't melt the solder, the next it's killing pots. The handle overheats uncomfortably too. Awful.

After playing with various cheap irons and wasting my money, I remembered that for the first 15 years of my soldering life I very happily used an Antex, so I went out and bought a new XS 25W with a silicone flex for £15. Bloody fantastic. Why did I waste all that time and money, especially on Maplin rubbish?  :x

[Fret Wire]

This is what I, and a lot of us use...$39.00 from Circuit Specialists
http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7501

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6262

Then, throw in some 63/37 solder (awesome), and $2 more dollars of stuff (super cheap resistors and greenie caps) to hit $50, and you get a free DMM. They change the model of the free gift alot, but this one also tests for hfe. I've got two of these.   Lets see......a great solder station, 1lb spool of nice solder, and a DMM for $50!


ps- Thanks to Peter Snowberg who turned most of us on to this station and 63/37 solder.

[petemoore]

These irons sure look nice !1 I could use !!
 That DMM looks like the one I use FW...

[D Wagner]

This is what I, and a lot of us use...$39.00 from Circuit Specialists
http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7501

ps- Thanks to Peter Snowberg who turned most of us on to this station and 63/37 solder.

I'll also recommend the soldering station above.  It is amazing.  It can do anything from light duty wiring to heavy jacks with ease.  And, the price is right.  I am still using the same tip it came with, too!  The "brillo" tip cleaner it came with is the best.

Derek

[Fret Wire]

Yeah, the "brillo" definately cleans the tip way better than a wet sponge. After every few sessions, I remove the tip, chuck it in a drill, and lightly polish it with Flitz or Simichrome polish. I get a pretty long life out of tips that way. You can't use anything abrasive to clean the tips though, you'll cut through the iron plating and ruin the tip.

I swear that "brillo" holder is just an ashtray. :shock:

[Rick]

Just another kudo for that XY-tronics iron. I have not found a better one for this price. Heats up to soldering temp in mere seconds no matter how dense the metal (within reason). Cools down to presets after - it's a beauty! Can't recommend it highly enough. You really owe this iron to yourself, and no I don't work for the company. ...Rick

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

As long as we're on the subject:  anyone know where to get a 220v iron IN the US?  I am heading abroad for a while, but I want to get my stuff in advance.

I recommend gettigng a 115/230 transformer (plenty at www.jameco.com) aand then you can use your current iron! there is bound to be somethgn else 110v you wnat to take (don't forget the power board!).
Note that buying a 'good' 230v iron in Australia (for example) will be MUCH more expensive than getting a good 110v iron & transformer in USA, even if you pay excess baggage!!

[pioneer_56]

I use this one:http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7760



It is a little overkill, but a fine iron, and very well built.

Andrew