3PDT Switches Quality: Fulltone vs Blue Taiwanese

[mindcapsule]

Does anyone know the differences in quality between these aside from the ones that Mike Fuller states on his website?

Have anyone of you long-time builders experienced failures with the blue 3PDT switches?

Thanks,
Robert

[markr04]

I only use the blue switches and I've never had a failure.

[PB Wilson]

Aron- What percent of the blue switches you sell have problems? I know that you test them (THANK YOU!!!) and it's not a test of long-term durability, but it might give us an idea of the general build quality.

Either way, I've never had a failure in the 20+ switches I've used and since there is no other switch that is affordable and does what it does, I'll gladly keep using them.

[troubledtom]

go blue!
- tom

[dadude]

Fuller claims that Matthews ripped him off by going to the same manufacturer overseas to have them build Matthews a clone.

Looking at both I'd say they did a damn fine job of it!


:lol:

[phillip]

I've been using the blue switches from Arom exclusively.  They have a very solid action and I've had an exact 0% failure rate with them

Fuller's switches are way overpriced (as usual) and in fact they're probably made by the same company on the same machinery as the blue switches.  The only difference is that the Fuller switches are black with his name on them.

Phillip

[mindcapsule]

Fuller claims that Matthews ripped him off by going to the same manufacturer overseas to have them build Matthews a clone.

Looking at both I'd say they did a damn fine job of it!


:lol:

':lol:'


Thanks for the info everyone.

I have and had commercial effects with the blue switch and never had any problems with it, I was just curious if everyone else had the same experience.  Is there only one manufacturer that makes the 3PDT switch?

-Robert

[Fret Wire]

0% failures to date. Thanks Aron! (tests every switch, and gives shipping confirmation).

[aron]

I have had very low failure rates BUT every now and then a switch will test bad. I could probably skip the testing but when a switch fails, then I realize that the testing is worth it.

I hope it's worth it to you guys.  :wink:

[puretube]

[Doug_H]

Never had a problem with a blue one.

We've come a long way since the MCM switch days... Eventually I had a problem with every one of those. :lol:

Doug

[Paul Marossy]

The only problem I have ever had with a blue 3PDT switch was overheating it while soldering...  

[puretube]

... with the subsequential followup-problems...  :shock:

[petemoore]

I thought I had a problem once, but user error was whappened.
 Perfect record FWIK, I've not read of a Blue 3pdt failure to date.

[smallbearelec]

To answer one of the earlier questions (and a few that weren't asked):

--The same factory makes both the "blue" 3PDT (sold by many vendors and, I believe, private-labeled by some) and the Fulltone switch.

--The body of the Fulltone part is bakelite, which does make them a little more tolerant of ham-handed soldering.

--I have had few reports of failures of either part. I would have liked to continue carrying the Fulltone switch as well, but MF has chosen to stop offering his OEM parts to resellers.

--MF claims that Mike Matthews stole his tooling. I was not listening at the keyhole when New Sensor was talking with the manufacturer, so I can't say. What is clear enough is that a company the size of NS can (and maybe did) put up enough money to get its own tooling made.

SD

[stinkfoot]

I've had only one pedal come back with a busted switch, out of 60+ blue 3PDT's sourced from various vendors around the globe. 25 or so of those has come from Aron, to whom I without a doubt will return for more.

/Andreas

[alderbody]

it's funny, but if i remember well, my Fulltone fulldrive II has blue 3PDT's inside...

i'll check it and get back if i'm wrong...

btw, i never had any problems with fulltone 3PDT's (from small bear), but after reading all the above, i'll try the blue ones in my next project.

the bakelite in the fulltones can save you in some occasions, though...