Progress on 1st Build: SeanM's B. Blender

[seanm]

check the date on the original post   haha... I need a signal blender...how well does this one work, say for bass?

It was designed for bass, although I let guitar players use it too 

The design should be clean for the entire audio frequency range. In fact I just happen to have a lot of 0.1uF caps. 0.01uF caps would work just fine for bass.

[MartyMart]

Hmm , I should check the "post date" more often !! 


MM.

[Will H]

Hi there.  Many thanks for posting this thread, its a great help and the b.blender is exactly what I've always neede for my bass effects..

I've been going through your perfboard layout and working out how the wiring for the input/output/send return jacks go.  Am I correct in assuming that the negative of the battery is connected to the ring of the (stereo) input jack and that the positive is conected to the second pin of both of the ICs?

As a basic rule for mono jacks is it tip to the bit on the schematic that says in or out and sleeve to ground?

Thanks

[John Lyons]

Yes, the Battery negative goes to the ring of the input setero jack. This way when you pull the input plug the power turns of like a switch.
For jacks, sleeve is always ground. The tip if the jack is always the in or out.
The + from the battery connects to pin 8 of both ICs

John

[Will H]

I'm just getting together a list of all the kit I need to build this.  I can't find any 50k pots for the blend control available in the catalogue of my local component supplier.  The nearest they have is 47k.  Can anyone advise me whether or not the exact 50k value is critical in this pot to the pedal working and if a 47k pot would be a reliable substitute?

Cheers

[markm]

I beleive 47K would be fine.
Tolerance on Pots it's not all that close most of the time.
If I'm not mistaken I think it's like 20% 
WOW! this thread really has some miles on it huh 

[seanm]

The blend pot value is not critical. 47k will work great. I think even 100k would work, but I haven't tested it.

The blend pot must also be linear taper, not log or audio taper.

[Will H]

Thanks for the info.  Hopefully I will get the kit together tomorrow and maybe if things go well I will have the perfboard finished by tomorrow night for testing.

Cheers for all the support.

[DBDbadreligion]

I was going to wait until I was completely finished building SeanM's B. Blender (w/ volume), but I got to a place where I could show some progress and wanted to post.  Besides wanting to build a blender, I also thought Sean's would be fun because there wasn't a layout already posted.  And I am trying to fit everything into a 1590B.     It's ready for pots, jacks, juice, and testing! 

this is a noob question, but is that just a solid core copper wire that connects all the
components through the bottom of the PCB?

[gaussmarkov]

this is a noob question, but is that just a solid core copper wire that connects all the
components through the bottom of the PCB?

the connections are made with the leads of the components after poking them through the perfboard.
you might find it helpful to look at the beginner's project, linked on the home page of this forum.
here's a short cut to one of the links found there that might give you the answer to your specific question:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/npnboostbuild.htm

all the best, gm

[DBDbadreligion]

this is a noob question, but is that just a solid core copper wire that connects all the
components through the bottom of the PCB?

the connections are made with the leads of the components after poking them through the perfboard.
you might find it helpful to look at the beginner's project, linked on the home page of this forum.
here's a short cut to one of the links found there that might give you the answer to your specific question:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/npnboostbuild.htm

all the best, gm

alright thanks i had always wondered exactly hot to do it.

[DBDbadreligion]

could you show me how to hook the 3PDT switch and jacks to the circuit?  and LED if you used one?  i dont mean to be a pain or anything.  i will work on how i think it goes and show you my picture of it.


thanks,  nick

[DBDbadreligion]

here's what i think,
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/DBDbadreligion/B.jpg
is that right?

[gaussmarkov]

here's what i think,
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/DBDbadreligion/B.jpg
is that right?

probably.    you aren't using a stereo jack for your input, but i think i know what you mean.
and you are grounding all of your jacks to the board.  i don't do this because my jacks are all grounded
through the enclosure.  if you do not insulate your jacks, then all of their rings/grounds are connected
through the aluminum box, and the output jack is grounded through the cable.  i ground the board
by hooking it up to the ground of the output jack.

so the send and return jacks connect to send and return.  if we forget about them, then the hook up
is fairly standard and you can use the ones pictured on tonepad.com or generalguitargadgets.com.
but it's confusing. i found some old images i once made for myself, so i will post them here fwiw:

here is the basic layout with the enclosure shown as a green line:



here is a highlight of what is going on in bypass.  the yellow lines indicate the connections inside the
switch.  the tips of the two jacks connect directly and the input of the circuit is grounded:



if we switch the circuit in without a DC power supply and just a battery then things connect like this.  the
battery is hooked up through the DC power supply jack:



if we plug in a power supply, then this.  putting the plug into the DC power supply jack disconnects the
positive terminal of the battery:



i hope this helps.

[DBDbadreligion]

what is the "pin" that hooks up to the negative part of the battery clip?

[John Lyons]

Pin = Power in.
The negative of the battery clip goes to the sleeve of the DC jack.

John

[DBDbadreligion]

ok i know now, i just wasnt sure.  thanks

[DBDbadreligion]

here's what i think,
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/DBDbadreligion/B.jpg
is that right?

probably.    you aren't using a stereo jack for your input, but i think i know what you mean.
and you are grounding all of your jacks to the board.  i don't do this because my jacks are all grounded
through the enclosure.  if you do not insulate your jacks, then all of their rings/grounds are connected
through the aluminum box, and the output jack is grounded through the cable.  i ground the board
by hooking it up to the ground of the output jack.

so the send and return jacks connect to send and return.  if we forget about them, then the hook up
is fairly standard and you can use the ones pictured on tonepad.com or generalguitargadgets.com.
but it's confusing. i found some old images i once made for myself, so i will post them here fwiw:

here is the basic layout with the enclosure shown as a green line:



here is a highlight of what is going on in bypass.  the yellow lines indicate the connections inside the
switch.  the tips of the two jacks connect directly and the input of the circuit is grounded:



if we switch the circuit in without a DC power supply and just a battery then things connect like this.  the
battery is hooked up through the DC power supply jack:



if we plug in a power supply, then this.  putting the plug into the DC power supply jack disconnects the
positive terminal of the battery:



i hope this helps.

is the output jack on this diagram stereo or mono.  i know the input is stereo, but the output doesnt show it as having a sleeve so im a little confused.

[John Lyons]

Actually the jacks there are labeled wrong there.
Tip is the longest finger, ring is the shorter one and sleeve is the rectangle which is always ground (has the J1 or J2 written on it in the graphic).

The input  is stereo and the output is mono in the graphic.

John

[DBDbadreligion]

so the "ring" on the output should be the sleeve?