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Author
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Topic: Pictures! (Read 4807527 times)
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John Lyons
Posts: 5768
Basic Audio
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That looks great Dave! I like the parchment-like texture and depth you have going there.
Sort of paper mache look as well. Dig it.
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Earthscum
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So you paint, apply your image (face down) to the wet paint, wait for it to dry and soak the paper off?
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Govmnt_Lacky
Posts: 4572
I'M ONLY GETTING CLEAN OUTPUT!!!!
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Not only Made in Canada..... but in the basement as well!!! MAJOR MOJO THERE  Beautiful work Dave!!! Me likey  |
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A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of ‘up to and including my life.’
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kato
Posts: 74
neat wiring is for beginners
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Kato... nice build.
Where did you find those amazing knobs?
Thanks. The knobs are a mystery. I asked the guy who sold them to me; he doesn't remember: 'probably ebay' he says. Kilo makes similar black aluminum knobs but they're pricey: Digikey 226-1113-ND, and 226-4021-ND. |
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If school won't teach you how to fight for what's needed
They're teaching you to go through life and get cheated.
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Colonel Angus
Posts: 305
Brian M. - Cincinnasty, OH
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Wow Dave!! That's super awesome and very original. Can you go into detail about the process? Did you paint and then do the acrylic transfer? I have been messing with decoupage and this would be an ideal method to apply text and labeling.
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Why should you not have 90o angles? Do the electrons bunch up in the corners?
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slacker
Posts: 5660
Ian M. - England
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« Last Edit: May 07, 2012, 11:42:26 AM by slacker »
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kato
Posts: 74
neat wiring is for beginners
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They're all aluminum with a set screw. Total overkill for my slacker build with graphics printed on recycled paper. I didn't know I was supposed to use coated paper!!  I should probably replace them with plastic knobs for consistency.  Anyway, if they don't need to be all metal, All Electronics has this one for 1.75.. |
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If school won't teach you how to fight for what's needed
They're teaching you to go through life and get cheated.
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~arph
Posts: 1492
Arnoud P. - The Netherlands
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John,
I just know that someday I'll buy one of your pedals just to put it on display in my living room. And build a true bypass box for it so I don't have to step on it if i want to use it.
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davent
Posts: 2202
dave c. -Hammer Mtn. ON
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Thanks guys! It is pretty much as Earthscum described, apply your acrylic medium to the enclosure, lay your reversed laser/photocopy image into the wet medium, burnish it smooth, let dry and then wet the back of the image and rub the paper away. Simple as that! Slacker's link has a good description of using acrylics (as well as other methods) to do the toner transfers as well as transfers with inkjet images. Haven't tried any of the other methods for transferring or transferring inkjet images. I'll be taking info on acrylics from that article to improve on what i've tried. From the various articles/videos i've seen, there're all kinds of acrylic mediums being used, gels, fluids and pastes even just straight acrylic paint. I painted the box let it dry then used Golden's GAC 200 as the acrylic transfer medium, it's sold as a hardener/adhesion promoter for mixing into their other products, in liquid it's milky but dries clear and sandable hard. http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicaldata/gac100s.php Also tried the GAC 200 as an edge sealer when masking/painting and it worked great. I treated the transfers like decals and cut them down so there was little excess paper around the image and that resulted in a visible edge (which was one of the reasons to pursue an alternative to waterslide decals) where the medium squeezed out as well as i'm sure a good source for the paper fibres that got trapped in the medium. Wiped up the excess but obviously didn't get it all up. So leave lots of extra paper around the image. For burnishing i just put a piece of wax paper over the image paper and rubbed with my finger or piece of paper towel, worked ok but could have been better, i'm going to invest in a brayer. Going to try removing the image paper as described in slackers link, i was overly aggressive to start and not using enough water, even so the transfers held up surprisingly well, stood up to scouring pads and light sanding, tough. I've tried the Varathane (waterbased polyurethane) on a couple pedals over the years and it never truly goes water clear, a faint milky haze remains, you can really notice it over the colours of the enclosure baseplate. Trying out Polycrylic on a pedal i'm finishing up now and so far it seems much better... still not as good as the StewMac waterbased lacquer i've run out of, the lacquer is totally clear and new coats of lacquer melt into the previous coats which makes life simplier when it comes time to level sand the clearcoat. Take care all! dave |
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"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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azrael
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Wow, seems interesting! Any chance of writing a tutorial?
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davent
Posts: 2202
dave c. -Hammer Mtn. ON
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Those are gorgeous!!!
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"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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darron
Posts: 2338
Melbourne, Australia
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amazing. amazing. life seems so much more beautiful now. thank you.
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Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!
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diydave
Posts: 98
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This is just amazing! Last pedal I've build, I've just glued my print (which was printed on fotopaper) on the box and sprayed it with clearcoat. Worked rather well.  But this is stunning. |
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rousejeremy
Posts: 1712
Jeremy Rouse
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It's always a good day when Cloudscapes posts pictures
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midwayfair
Posts: 1809
Jon P
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It is a rotary for the shape w/ LEDs? This is very cool. |
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cloudscapes
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its just a pot. a microcontroller translates the pot value to which of the 5 leds blink. among doing other things
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Slade
Posts: 845
Fernando R. from Chile
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Stunning artwork, Etienne! Really beautiful.
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bluebunny
Posts: 1948
Marc B.
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Here's my Madbean "Green Bean" (TS clone, and then some): (Not decided quite what to do with the "floating board" yet, and must do something with those horrible switch washers. Clip the tabs and paint 'em, I think.) And this is Rick's "Le Craquement 6111" tube thang: Both sound great! And what is it with Rick's designs that I just have to build them??  |
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[M][a][r][c]
Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...
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