Pinouts on CLM6000 help

[Stevo]

There is a white dot on one of the short wire is this the anode and the other the cathode connection? I seem to be really dumb about this.. In a circuit you would hook the white connection to a positive feed and the other to a negative depending on the circuit is this correct? Thanks for help

[dr]

.....I just bought some of theseas well as some CLM8200's , and have just now gotten around to testing them...if you are wanting to test them, do like I have done and save yourself a bit of trouble.I wouldn't try to just connect a battery to them at all-I bought one of those cheap LED testers off Ebay;I connected my multimeter to the legs on the end without the dot (the LDR half) and read the ohms while I connect the other side (legs with the dot) to the LED tester- don't go up to the higher current draw setting on the LED tester; start in the low current slots, or if you know how much current the LED side should draw, get as close as you can....the current settings are printed on the tester......( I'm not sure of the specs myself;I wanted to see if they even worked, and they all do-now if I had the current draw specs, I'd be doing that now!)....just don't go hooking up a battery right off-the LDR may take the hit, but LED's don't hold up too good-just about as good as a nine volt battery across a speaker coil.....I used to have a tech that would test my new PA speaker coils (We used to blow a lot of speakers then) with a nine-volt battery to check proper speaker phase before he would install them for me.....and I do mean USED TO.......he couldn't figure out why half of them wouldn't put out any sound after he installed them.........hmmmm...........

[Dave_B]

Steve Daniels had a good way of testing these things as well.

Set up four penlight batteries in series (Don't use a power supply with a filter cap). Check to see that you have something like 6.0 volts. Connect a 200 ohm resistor in series, and use this as your power source for the LED side. With the LED powered, a good CLM6000 should measure under 500 ohms on the cell side.

Here's the full thread if anyone's interested.  http://diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=36648

I bought some of these from eBay since they were so cheap.  I'll post my results in the above thread as soon as I scrounge up a 4-cell battery holder.

[Stevo]

:shock: Which is which?? the anode and cathode .....IS THE WHITE DOT THE ANODE?? :?

[Dave_B]

Per Mr. Anderton, "Dot indicates cathode (banded end) of LED."

[nelson]

I got 22 clm8200/2, gonna build me a polyphase          

[Stevo]

I have several different answers ...Now the dot is the cathode .....If you were to hook this up the arrow would point towards the cathode end so the other end is the anode end .... HELP I am confused :?  :?  :? the cathode on a diode is hooked up towards the positive end and anode towards the negative end.....If used like a zener diode for protection...Now what is the long end on a LED is that the anode

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

On a normaL diode, there is a black band at the cathode end.
Now, using diode test setting on your multimeter, you can compare the diode in your optocoupler, with a normal diode. And all will be revealed.

[Dave_B]

I got 22 clm8200/2, gonna build me a polyphase          

That sounds cool, Nelson.  Is there a schematic posted somewhere?

[nelson]

I got 22 clm8200/2, gonna build me a polyphase          

That sounds cool, Nelson.  Is there a schematic posted somewhere?

I am working on a PCB for it. There are 2 schematics around one under deluxe phaser and one under polyphase, a few minor differences.

envelope controled phasing....

If you email me I will send you them both.

hempathyathempathydotorgdotuk