DIY Circuit Board Holder -- Build Report at the end ;-)

[gaussmarkov]

i am tired of trying to get my circuit boards to stay still with my little two-clip-one-magnifying glass stand (whatever it's called).  panavise has the right idea in their "circuit board holder."  but now i'm thinking i could design and build my own.  or maybe some of you have already done this?    anyone care to share their diy design--or seen one they like?

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Suppose you had two wooden blocks.
And cut a 1/4" deep cut across one face of each, about 1/8 wide.
Now you could put the PCB in the slots between the 2 blocks.
And use a large rubber band to hold the blocks together, wiht the
PCB between them, or put
a couple of holes in the blocks & use threaded bolts to hold
the blocks together.
If you make the cut at the right angle, it should work.

Alternatively, now that there are those great magnets...
get a scrap of iron plate for a base.
Insert magnets in the bases of the blocks.

DISCLAIMER: havn't tried this myself.
Snap in place..

[Dave_B]

I guess you could, but I'm not sure how much you'd ultimately save.  I say that assuming you're talking about a 'regular' vise and not one of these $84 workcenter thingies:


On eBay there's a couple of cheaper alternatives to the Panavise.   
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4413558289
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4413698462

I've no idea about quality, but the second one looks similar to a vise my wife used to have that was perfectly servicable.

As with the Clairex thread from a few months back, I have nothing to do with these auctions, and I apologize in advance if I end up driving up the price.   

[Stevo]

I use a pair of glasses from the drugstore..I use two or one very big alligator clamp about the size of small scissors and use that to clamp or like a small stand sideways, the componets in the middle...kind of caveman way but I start with a big piece of vero and build it a little bigger than some and than trim the edges of the extra when done....I dont use the stuff from radio shack I buy large veroboard and cut into pieces than trim it...I use a desk with a large piece of plywood cut for building on, than have a stand for the gun...Some builders are super clean and small....I am big and roomy..

[tiges_ tendres]

i use a big roll of whatever tape is handy, or balance in the finger holes of a pair of scissors if the board is small enough.

[petemoore]

  Left Hand
  My iron gets mounted about 5'' under the fumes exhaust tube, in a big, lit up box for most all the board solderings. I take it out to do some 'in box' soldering, component scavenging etc., otherwise it stays with the tip coming down in a nice 45*, and I use the box to steady my hand for approaches and retreats, bringing the board to the fixed iron.
  Usually the board is small enough that where I grab the board is closer to the tip than where I'd be trying to handle a hot iron.
  Getting right to where I want, from which side I want, and at the angle I want, I find easy to do with this method. Of course I've developed many tricks like 'el perfecto through board wire bending and holding techniques, I use the top of the board alot so I can
  See whats going on with the circuit from atop the board because more is going on up there.
  Take *readings from seeable points from the *Top Of The Board, see possible mod right then and there, I seriously Don't Like confirming continuity al'a DMM probes from top to bottom of board.
  Go in from the other side of the board using one hand to do all the repositioning of the board and without setting the board down.
  Raise resistors leads a bit enough atop the board in case I might wanna start big with it and posibly parallel that one later tie a pot to it to see what I like there, have something in there so the circuit'll fire...EZ in case I 'just wanna see what that does'.
  These techs ease debugging and allow thumbroom near sockets, or for very tight builds that can still be modded or debugged, when used try not to hanging garden it too much.
   :icon_eek:  :icon_rolleyes:modern pads I'm using I think will have N/P consistantly supporting 'some' TOB components especially when the hanging part is coming off of another soldered in component [both ends].
  Times when I want to pin wires in place using a wire or lead, I lay the board down so it's supported good enough, and hold the iron handle, that is when the iron might get dropped. I'm a quick grab, and I don't have time while to ascertain that I'm quick grabbing a very large hot iron. A hooketip once soldered the inside of  my hand.
  I like having the iron sit still and right under the fumes exhauster [cost like 12 bux for me].
  As further incentive for you to not try any of this, I'll include info about my iron.
  HUGE INDustrial soldering iron with a thick solid core wire wrapped specially around and out at a 45 degree angle for a nice fine tip, the 'bulge' [small loop] of wire, over the tip of the iron is super hot and does heavy soldering quickly, the tip of the core wire is just the right heat for light board work, I clean the tip by getting the glob to the bottom of the tip, then flipping the solder off with soldering iron package cardboard...wearing old pants he laughed, I like best to pick the cooled solder off of cotton material...you DID say 'any info'!
 

[gaussmarkov]

thanks, y'all.    here's my build report.      this is very frostwavey:  i cut two pieces of 2x4 five inches long, clamped them together with a big c clamp and drilled two 3/8" holes through the pair.  made a 1/8 inch cut in each block of wood 1/4 inch from one edge on the inside faces to grip the circuit board.  pushed a 3/8" carriage bolt (6 inches long) through the holes and slapped on washers and wing nuts.  the wing nuts spin very nicely so that opening and closing the vice is a breeze.  the 2 inch thickness of the wood prevents the wood from torquing.  probably works fine with just one bolt.  i love it.  i can probably use it for crushing cans for recycling as well. here's a pic: 



petemoore, i don't think i have the bandwidth to move the board instead of the iron.  that is so cool.  i can at least appreciate how well it works for you.  you have total flexibility for board positioning.  but it's too backwards for my abilities to master.

tiges_ tendres, don't cut yourself with those scissors. 

bellyflop, i keep forgetting to look on ebay.  those are great finds.  i just had to got the diy route on this one.  but i bet somebody else made off with those items.

Stevo, i am going to try the glasses from the drugstore, too.  i am near-sighted and my regular glasses don't cut it for close up work.  so i am always yanking my glasses off, but then i get in way too close ... 

[R.G.]

You might also want to take a look at http://geofex.com/FX_images/solder_block.gif for a way to speed up soldering. I never had much problems with resistors, caps, etc. but I hated putting on lead wires and connecting up controls. Holding the wires, the board and the controls at the same time was a pain.

So I did the soldering block. It works for me.

Here's a tip for building PCBs - solder parts on by height! That is, put all of the jumper wires on first - they're lowest off the board. Then all the lay-down resistors; then the ICs(or sockets), then the short caps, then the stand-up capacitors, and so on. By the time you get down to the stand-up stuff, it's easy. When you get all the parts of one height inserted, put a piece of corrugated cardboard over the board and inserted parts, hold them together and flip it over to solder the bottom. Only the parts being held by the cardboard are loose, so they all stay in the holes. Solder, clip off leads, and then flip back over for the next-highest.

[petemoore]

petemoore, i don't think i have the bandwidth to move the board instead of the iron.  that is so cool.  i can at least appreciate how well it works for you.  you have total flexibility for board positioning.  but it's too backwards for my abilities to master.
   Cool, best is a system you unerstand that works well for you.
  All good suggestions of course !!!

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Gaussmarkov, you've made my day!
That's the magic of this board, anyone can post a harebrained idea & wait for someone to see whether it works. Actually, people are so different, that I don't think there is any one method suits everyone. It's valuable to have all the options laid out, though.
For anyone who normally wears glasses, the hinged clip-on magnifier half way down this page is good:
http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Loupes.html (went to the dentist this morning, that's what he uses!)

[gaussmarkov]

You might also want to take a look at http://geofex.com/FX_images/solder_block.gif for a way to speed up soldering. I never had much problems with resistors, caps, etc. but I hated putting on lead wires and connecting up controls. Holding the wires, the board and the controls at the same time was a pain.

So I did the soldering block. It works for me.

Here's a tip for building PCBs - solder parts on by height! That is, put all of the jumper wires on first - they're lowest off the board. Then all the lay-down resistors; then the ICs(or sockets), then the short caps, then the stand-up capacitors, and so on. By the time you get down to the stand-up stuff, it's easy. When you get all the parts of one height inserted, put a piece of corrugated cardboard over the board and inserted parts, hold them together and flip it over to solder the bottom. Only the parts being held by the cardboard are loose, so they all stay in the holes. Solder, clip off leads, and then flip back over for the next-highest.

these are all great suggestions. too.  in fact, i can incorporate your soldering block right into my circuit holder.     i'll just put the holes for the controls on the inside of one of these 2x4's!  i already made the saw kerf (so that's what that's called).  now how sweet is that?!?   Paul Perry:  look what you've started!

and one more application:  this thing is a great neck rest for when i am working on a guitar on the bench.  i may have to carve an impression just for the neck, too.   one more feature and i'm going to file a patent.

For anyone who normally wears glasses, the hinged clip-on magnifier half way down this page is good: http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Loupes.html (went to the dentist this morning, that's what he uses!)

waddya know.  these guys are just a stone's throw away.  i may drop in for a first-hand look.  thanks for another great idea!

[Hal]

ehhh

3rd hand, goldmine elec, $.99

[gaussmarkov]

ehhh

3rd hand, goldmine elec, $.99

yep.  now i may be able to make some use of the one that i have been fumbling with. 

[petemoore]

  Simple vise...my brother made one once, we used it all the time, modified for SB use.
  the jaws are two upright paint sticks or better
  the base has one jaw mounted to it firmly, the other jaws bottom has two alignment fork tongs, which fit in two holes. A line of holes is drilled [2 rows] so that the bottom of the movable jaw stays aligned with the fixed jaw but can be move closer or farther away from it, the jaws can be shaped to have ledges, and a rubber band could do the clamping honors for quick turn arounds [using a fixed 'open stop' [cut 1/2 width paint stick lengths] so the vise stays open to almost the size of the board].
  Mount it half loose with washers so you can rotate it, mount it nearer one side in a pan or tray of some sort.
  Use heavier wood and a thumbscrew clamp for heavier duty.

[gaussmarkov]

  Simple vise...my brother made one once, we used it all the time, modified for SB use.
  the jaws are two upright paint sticks or better
  the base has one jaw mounted to it firmly, the other jaws bottom has two alignment fork tongs, which fit in two holes. A line of holes is drilled [2 rows] so that the bottom of the movable jaw stays aligned with the fixed jaw but can be move closer or farther away from it, the jaws can be shaped to have ledges, and a rubber band could do the clamping honors for quick turn arounds [using a fixed 'open stop' [cut 1/2 width paint stick lengths] so the vise stays open to almost the size of the board].
  Mount it half loose with washers so you can rotate it, mount it nearer one side in a pan or tray of some sort.
  Use heavier wood and a thumbscrew clamp for heavier duty.

stew-mac has a version of this?  camless clamps

[petemoore]

not really
  I'm talking about a 2x4 or plywood, laiddown, mounted.
  an upright board at one end of it is one of the jaws.
  The right jaw, is a board that has has two alignment pins. To accomodate different size boards, the right jaw is removable, resettable to different lengths from the left jaw, the two pins simply align the bottom by poking into holes, rows of holes to choose different lengths are drilled, say 12 or 14 for 6 or 7 distance choices.
  The left jaw stays put, mounted.
  the right jaw, instead of being mounted firmly to the base wood piece, just 'pokes in' where you need, however far or near you want the jaws apart, the right jaw, being removable, and having holes [two holes drilled precisely to keep the jaws aligned [some slop is preferrable, if a wire is coming between the jaw and board during clamping] yet giving instant range [distance between the two jaws]...you just pull the right jaw out of two holes, and pick two other holes from the ones you drilled [or drill some more farter away etc.] that put the bottom of the jaw board the right distance from the other jaw, and aligned very close to parallel in two dimensions/
  You can then take the 'teeth of the jaw and glue felt...or...better yet a 'ledge board' which will let you put circuit boards and hit the 'stops' on both jaws, centered and level.
  For moving the board around, pull the board, pull the jaw back, close the jaws so they're open more than the board, but the jawledges are under the edges of the board, drop the board down to the jaw ledges, release...clamped.
  For different size boards the right jaw is movable to different distances from the left jaw. it just has two alignment pins, poke the base of the jaw [a wood board] into holes.
  Actuall you might want the movable right jaw to be > shaped, with / slanted alignment holes and pins, that way the spring or rubber band will force/hold the pins fully in [controlling the right jaw more securely], also the V shape will grab the board.
  I think a small amount of incline would make it easier to see and to get to...more 'ergonomic' soldering.
  Also, a bar sticking out and bent to fashion a rest for steadying the heel of your hand on is a great feature.

[petemoore]

  I'd just make one and take a picture, but using the fixed iron is what I continue to prefer/the fact it's left under the exhaust tube makes it pretty much set as my way.
  it'd just be another dang thing in the way for me.

[SolderBoy]

My favourite "holder" for small circuit boards and soldering jacks etc. is simply two large lumps of Blu-Tac. (That tacky blue or yellow putty you use for putting up posters of Britney Spears in your Bedroom).

I've tried several different vice or clamp things over the years, but I dig the blu-tac the best...   

[Garrett]

all you need is a steady hand and just set a wrench or somehign on top of the board.  Who has time for vices?  I'm just ready to hear the effect i'm building


ROCKOTRON, Garrock