Whats yr biggest cct in a 1590B?!

[vdm]

Hello everyone,

EDIT: Just thought I'd make this much less self-centred and ask what you have all fit inside 1590B. See if there is a record or something.. haha

I'm just here being my normally crazy self again. Spent last night putting together the perf for a multi rat with all the electros down on their sides, and as low profile board as possible. The idea is that I can fit the whole pedal into a 1590B..

My dad came in last night and asked "what's wrong with a bigger box", and it took me a while but eventually came up with "now that wouldnt be a challenge would it". So essentially the idea is just to make something that really shouldnt fit into a specified space.

The 4p3t rotary switch im using has all the little tabs pointing down, so those are all bent out to let the board fit.

The idea is to have the multi-switch on the left with a chicken-head knob and 4LEDs that correspond to the diode arrangement selected (green, yellow, orange, red) just to use up the extra throw on the switch and also function as the bypass indicator. these will be run with a millenium bypass arrangement.

The box will have a battery, and possibly a DC jack at a later stage. The battery is above the switch, then the jacks, then the pots/switch.

The pots will either be 9mm minis, or 16mm pots (but this would mean no filter control, but I was thinking i might prefer it without it - just a present LP)

Anyway.. just wanted to know what you guys thought, and wondered if you think it's possible??

Cheers,
Trent

[TheBigMan]

Having squeezed some smaller circuits into a tiny box, I'd say go for it.  I use low-profile electrolytics where I can, they are about the same height as a box film cap which keeps the profile down.  The tallest thing on my boards is usually a trimmer if there is one in the circuit.  First image is a completed Orange Squeezer in a 3"x2"x1" enclosure, second is a pre-assembly gut shot.

[soggybag]

I fit a Rebote 2 delay in a 1590 B. Here are a few pictures:



Here's some pictures of the interior:




This took a while to figure out. I must have drawn and redrawn the layout 5 or 6 times before I was finished. Before I started soldering I checked my layout by placing all of the parts on the PCB. This was a very useful step. It showed which parts would actually fit where I had planned to place them and which were much larger than I had imagined.

I  liked the look of the knobs but I had a problem with the nut showing under the skirt, so I got out the Dremel tool and ground down the nuts until they fit under the skirt. Here's a close up.

[Processaurus]

Gorgeous work, soggybag. 



its a red llama in series with a modded out green ringer.  Theres a switch that changes the caps between stages in the Llama and makes it sound worse.

"JUST USE A BIGGER BOX!"

I lost some enthusiasm for squeezing things into tiny boxes when I realized I couldn't stick them real close together on a pedalboard, or I'd just switch the wrong one on accident w/ my big ole foot.

With the B sized box, you can make life easier if you can live without the battery (especially since theres going to be AC anywhere you're playing amplified music).  I also like making the boards sit vertically.  Zvex does that on the couple innards I've seen of his pedals. 

Gotta go get the gravy going
 

[soggybag]

Thanks Procesaurus, I like your box, very good work and a tight squeeze! Do you have a picture of the top? I have been thinking about doing a box, a tube screamer with the boost mod, using a similar layout, two switches on top with knobs on the side and jacks on either end.

[Processaurus]

Thanks, heres the top.


I got the layout idea from the moosapotamus.com but its not working right now.  The switches on the side kind of worried me a bit, I was thinking of using one of those roll bar/ metal cabinet handles to protect the knobs and switches, for future projects with the controls on the side.

[The Tone God]

Its all about size with you guys ain't it. Tisk tisk.

Anyways I built a very advanced version of The Vanishing Point into a 1590B. No pics but for what it does its quite impressive.

Andrew

[SolderBoy]

Last year I managed to just squeeze a Neutron into a similar sized box.  (Actually I think this one might even be slightly smaller than the 1509B.)  I had to use those tiny little cube pots, and many other small components...



Not sure why I bothered, really.  I guess I got kind of obsessed... 

Processaurus is right - you gotta be able to stomp them on a pedal board without accidently touching their neighbours!

[soggybag]

Wow that's impressive. I don't think that I would have even tried to fit the Neutron in a B box.

I really think this is the best form for pedals. I the size, apparently, can fit just about anything. The box itself laysout nice on your pedal board to.

[R.G.]

Me too. I don't think I'd have tried that with non-SMD parts.

[Processaurus]

Me too. I don't think I'd have tried that with non-SMD parts.

I'm suprised surface mount hasn't caught on with any DIYers, you can fit stuff into tiny boxes, plus you wouldn't have to drill holes in your etched PC boards.  Harder to debug, I guess. 

[nelson]

Me too. I don't think I'd have tried that with non-SMD parts.

I'm suprised surface mount hasn't caught on with any DIYers, you can fit stuff into tiny boxes, plus you wouldn't have to drill holes in your etched PC boards.  Harder to debug, I guess. 

Isnt it nearly impossible to solder SMD components?

[Hal]

I think the bigger problem is needed to make your own layout and etch a board for every effect...can't use perf or anything like that...

the small ones are hard to solder, but not impossible.  Just need a steady hand.

[soggybag]

Solderboy, I'm curious about the pots you used did you get them at Mouser, do you have a part number?

[Peter Snowberg]

There is some really beautiful work in here!

Isn't it nearly impossible to solder SMD components?

Actually it's just the opposite!

All you need is a very basic set of things:

- temperature controlled iron with a tiny tip
- fine solder (63/37 for best results)
- flux in liquid or paste form and a little paint brush to apply it
- fine solder wick (!)
- tinned boards
- tweezers

That's it, really.

You can solder most SMD packages MUCH faster than through hole parts and you don't need to cut off all those leads.

The largest issue is the PCB. I don't DIY boards any more with so many cheap board houses out there who do proto quantities. They can deliver tiny drill sizes in double sided boards with plated throughs and they can coat the copper with solder which is the real key. R.G. wrote about tinning boards with a torch and a small piece of copper pipe if I recall correctly.

When it comes down to it, they can make boards that are vastly superior to anything I can make, so why not make a bunch of small layouts and tile them? ExpressPCB offers 3 boards (3.8" x 2.5") for $51 ($66 shipped to California). If you can put 8 tiny layouts in that space, you get $2.75 per board shipped to California. They're ready to go; just brush on some flux.

For smaller parts you often don't need to add solder directly. You just reheat the solder coating which then reflows around the connections.

I don't want to think about etching TSSOP pads. 

[SolderBoy]

SoggyBag,

I bought those pots from Jaycar - an Australian chain of electronics shops.

http://www1.jaycar.com.au

these are the 9mm pots...

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?whichpage=1&pagesize=10&keywords=&CATID=33&SUBCATID=802&form=CAT&SPECIAL=&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=#top

I must admit I was worried a little about the reliability of this pedal - since the pots were so cheap, I've never used that brand of jacks etc. etc.,  and also cuz I have tinkered with it a little since putting it together.  (A bread board in your apartment just isn't the same as taking it to a few gigs!)  But its been on my pedal board for around a year and its always behaved itself...  A great sounding pedal.  (Thanks for an awesome project RG!)

OT:  Oh by the way the label on the pedal was the first of my quick and cheerful Inkjet labels.  I'm not sure I've seen my particular method outlined on this forum, perhaps I'll start a new topic...