What to do with this wire

superjoe · January 11, 2006, 09:10:24 PM

I did check the faq, didnt find an answer.

Im about 60% done with my treble booster using the layout from drangonfly gallery thing. Except Im using a 3PDT with an LED. So I was using this >>http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg wiring diagram, and reversing the battery snap and led for the positive ground. But that leaves an extra wire from the layout that i dont know what to do with. I hope youll see what im talking about. thanks.

superjoe · January 11, 2006, 09:50:19 PM

anyone?

tennisdude · January 11, 2006, 10:34:07 PM

if im not mistaken, thats the ground wire. you should wire that one to the central lug on the 3pdt switch, and keep it wired into the PCB and to the output jack. But, I could be wrong

superjoe · January 11, 2006, 10:42:37 PM

Quote from: tennisdude on January 11, 2006, 10:34:07 PM
if im not mistaken, thats the ground wire. you should wire that one to the central lug on the 3pdt switch, and keep it wired into the PCB and to the output jack. But, I could be wrong

thanks for the response...anyone know for sure?

KMS · January 11, 2006, 10:43:59 PM

There should be no left over wire.

The dfly circuit is a pos grnd circuit.

The green wire (which is usually gnd in most other circuits) is actually the pos supply for the circuit .
Wire the 3PDT with the first two poles just like the dfly circuit.

The 7 strips on the board.....lets count them down with No 7 on top and No 1 on bottom.

No. 1 is the power (+) strip and No. 6 is the ground (-) strip.

Wire the Led between the remaining 3rd pole of the 3PDT between those two strips. You could connect the resistor (probably should be 4.7K to conserve battery life) to one of the holes on strip 6 and then connect the negative side of the LED to that resistor, then the positive side of the LED to one of the outside lugs (depends which way the other poles are wired for on/bypass) of the 3rd pole section on the switch, then a wire from strip 1 connected to the center of the third pole of the switch. If you wire it where the light is on during bypass, just re-wire the pos side of the LED to the other outside lug.

Cheers.

trjones1 · January 11, 2006, 11:28:16 PM

Quote from: KMS on January 11, 2006, 10:43:59 PM

The 7 strips on the board.....lets count them down with No 7 on top and No 1 on bottom.

No. 1 is the power (+) strip and No. 6 is the ground (-) strip.

Actually, I think that's not quite right. The bottom strip is still the ground, and should be treated like the ground in any other circuit, i.e. every place connected to ground (the green line) should be connected together at a common point, the pcb. The 6th row is the power rail, only its (-) power instead of (+).

It doesn't make a difference in wiring the switching, except you'll probably need to make sure that the anode of the led is still connected to the positive side of the battery, so it will be connected to the ground of the circuit and the cathode is connected to the power rail through a current limiting resistor. But I've never done a positive ground circuit with led, so I'm not sure about that last part.

KMS · January 12, 2006, 01:00:18 AM

I stand corrected.....your right, but with no intermediate reference potential like 0V it does not make any difference. We can call "ground" whatever we want and when I do something like that I use (-) and (+) symbols to be sure the polarity is clear. You won't catch me pulling a stunt like that on a bipolar circuit, that would be way too confusing!

Thanks for clearing that up.

fixr1984 · January 12, 2006, 07:36:10 AM

Will this help? http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_tb_dcjack_pnp.gif

superjoe · January 12, 2006, 10:44:10 PM

Quote from: KMS on January 12, 2006, 01:00:18 AM
I stand corrected.....your right, but with no intermediate reference potential like 0V it does not make any difference. We can call "ground" whatever we want and when I do something like that I use (-) and (+) symbols to be sure the polarity is clear. You won't catch me pulling a stunt like that on a bipolar circuit, that would be way too confusing!

Thanks for clearing that up.

god this is giving me a headache, do you think you could make a quick layout in paint or something for me, that would help a ton and id be really grateful. thanks.

KMS · January 13, 2006, 01:27:59 AM

I think that you're missing some key information which is the "continuity logic" for the pinots on your 3PDT stomp switch.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you knew what the 9 pins did, you would not be asking about the wiring on the switch...me thinks.

So, even if I did draw it out, you still would not know how to wire it.

There are three individual SPDT switches that all function the same way at the same time and that's the main reason why it is called 3PDT. When your done following these instructions, you should have a full understanding of the pin out logic for the 3PDT.

There are two rows of three pins that run through the center of the 9 pin configuration.

One of those rows are the center pins for each pole of your switch.

Use a meter, or a 9V battery hooked to an LED with a 4.7K resistor connected to the LED as a continuity tester. If you're using the LED as a tester be sure the (-) side of the LED is on the (-) side of the battery. You can find out how to distinguish the (-) side of an LED at http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_intro_diodes.pdf
where you should see that the large plate inside the LED is the (-) side.

Hook one lead of you tester to the one pin in the very center of the switch (there is only one pin in the center). That pin is called "pole 2".

Hook the other lead of the tester to each pin (one at a time) until your tester shows continuity (or the LED comes on).

Take a marker and mark the casing on that side of the switch (the side that gave you continuity.)

Turn the switch so all the pins are facing you and also turn the switch so the mark you made is on the bottom as you look at the switch.

Now, your switch is positioned in front of you exactly as the dfly drawing on your picture that you posted with your question above. Wire the left side of the switch (the left 6 pins) exactly like the dfly drawing shows to wire the 6 pins (you could use the right 6 pins also but don't because it will mess the rest of this discussion up).

Now test the circuit and the switch to make sure your circuit is working properly before hooking the light up.

After you have completed wiring the six left pins just like the dfly drawing, then hook a wire from the bottom strip on the board too the remaining center pin on the right side of the switch.

Then hook one side of your resistor (try 4.7K first) to the 2nd strip on the board down from the top.
Then hook the (-) side of the LED to the resistor.

Then hook the positive side of the LED to the remaining top pin on the right side of the switch.

The bottom right pin on the switch is not used.

Cheers..............

superjoe · January 13, 2006, 10:15:47 PM

ok thanks alot for your help, i read your post (very nice btw) and its helped alot, but i think for this one im just going to wire the 3PDT as a DPDT like the link below, should work, right?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/images/DPDT3PDT.jpg

KMS · January 14, 2006, 12:05:07 PM

That drawing in your last link is the same thing I described except that drawing has the center row of three pins available for the LED where my explanation would leave the right row of three pins available for the LED. Yes it will work.

You still need to mark the side of the switch that gives you continuity so you can align your pins on the switch the right way.

Also, if you mark your switch and position it in front of you the same as I described in my last reply then your 3PDT will be positioned in front of you exactly like the drawing in the last link you posted.

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What to do with this wire