The Blue Clipper Exposed!!!

[Chris Goodson]

I've been wanting to build one of these for quite a while but never trusted any of the schematics available.  I've been watching eBay for one with inside shots with no avail, finally I just broke down and emailed a buyer, he turned out to be a very cool guy indeed!
  This is his website.  www.danarmstrong.org

Here's the resulting email he sent-
Hi Chris,

Mark Schnoor here with some infor on the Dan Armstrong Blue Clipper. I
took it out and took pics. Hopefully they will help some. I left them
big size to further help you see the components. The photos are on my
server at:

http://www.markschnoor.com/clipper

Even then some are rather hard to read and so on photo #3447 you will
notice that I put some numbers next to some caps. They read as follows:

#1 says:

BREL
473K
100V

#2 says:

.033 (plus or minus) 10%  (here I could not duplicate the plus over the
minus sign but I think you get my drift)
100VDC   (after the letter C is what seems to be a smaller letter "T"
that has a circle around it.

#3 and #4 caps both say:

4.7
+K

The wires feeding the board - it appears as if the green wire is
soldered to one of the pins of cap #1

The red wire comes from the battery clip & is soldered onto a path that
goes to the top left pin of the Texas Instrument chip (by top left I
mean to say that if you can read the Texas Instrument logo and such,
then the upper left pin would be the pin I am talking about)

The white wire is on a path that leads to the lower right pin of the
Texas chip (if again turned so you can read it) and it ends up (along
with another white wire) on the 1/4" female guitar jack.

The brown wire ends up on the back &/or center pin of a type of pot that
apparently one could adjust a bit.

From the board the brown wire goes to the lower pin on the off/on
switch - the center pin of this switch has a blue wire on it that goes
to the "hot" plug on the guitars female input jack. The top pin on this
off/on switch has 2 wires on it. A green one that goes to the circuit
board and a yellow one that goes to the "hot" or "center" of the 1/4"
male plug that is on the unit.

A white wire is on the ground pin of the 1/4" male plug that is on the
unit and goes to the ground of the female plug on the unit.

A black wire comes off the battery clip and also ends up on the 1/4"
female plug

I'll leave the unit open for a few more days in case you have more
questions. Hope this has helped.

-M

Mark Schnoor

[Chris Goodson]

By the way I think this just proves Tonepad to be correct.

[petesguitar1]

I noticed that there is one more resistor on my tonepad built PCB. Also a different IC. Any thoughts?

[Chris Goodson]

I think the resistor is quite possibly to keep down popping sounds when the pedal is engaged, a 2.2 meg on the input isn't going to alter the sound.  I think that op-amp is sort of like half of a 4558 if I remember correctly, so the sound would be basically the same.  Personally I'm gonna copy the layout of the original as closely as I can(I'm just cheezy like that) and make my own board.

By the way how your pedal sound?

[Chris Goodson]

Here's another link that could shed some light.
http://www.alexchiu.com/affiliates/clickthru.cgi?id=cgoodson