newbie question: Pop = Switch problem?

[elberto]

I was wiring up a "Blue" 3PDT switch to go with a minibooster (using the layout on JD's site, with the 1M pulldown resistors)--I accidentally left the iron on too long on one of the lugs (w/o using a heat sink. doh!), and the plastic (?) holding it up melted.  the lug drifted a little, and I hooked up the rest of the effect  

Now I get a nice Pop when i switch the effect on/off.  Did I damage the switch with the heat?  or is it something else?  how can I check to see if the pulldown is working?

[gez]

I was wiring up a "Blue" 3PDT switch to go with a minibooster (using the layout on JD's site, with the 1M pulldown resistors)--I accidentally left the iron on too long on one of the lugs (w/o using a heat sink. doh!), and the plastic (?) holding it up melted.  the lug drifted a little, and I hooked up the rest of the effect  

Now I get a nice Pop when i switch the effect on/off.  Did I damage the switch with the heat?  or is it something else?  how can I check to see if the pulldown is working?

Just to rule out other possibilities first, use a meter to measure for any DC voltage across the 1M resistor.  If you measure significant voltage, then the output cap is probably the culprit (may have got the polarity wrong if electrolytic, or damaged the cap with excess heat).

[Rory]

I've fried quite a few switches leaving the iron on too long.  Other common problems I've had are: a moment of silence after engaged (or disengaged), loud pops, and crackles.  Fixed by replacing switch (very quickly!).

[elberto]

Thanks for your help guys; turns out it wasn't the switch or output cap (I think...)--I just lowered the pulldown resistor value from 1M to 470K which seemed to remove most of the pop (unless the boost is running at full tilt).  Does this make sense?  If so, is there a way of predicting how big/small you should go with a pulldown resistor without experimenting?