Tinning a PCB

Started by GFR, May 09, 2006, 03:04:36 PM

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GFR


Connoisseur of Distortion

ehhhhhh i'll stick to my liquid tin  ;)

be sure to actually use liquid tin outside, though... it's murderous on lungs.

Satch12879

The liquid tin from M.G. Chemicals is marked "For Industrial Use Only."
Passive sucks.

Progressive Sound, Ltd.
progressivesoundltd@yahoo.com

no one ever

Quote from: Connoisseur of Distortion on May 09, 2006, 04:58:29 PM
ehhhhhh i'll stick to my liquid tin  ;)

be sure to actually use liquid tin outside, though... it's murderous on lungs.

Where did you get that? I don't recall mouser has it.
(chk chk chk)



markm

What exactly is the advantage to tinning, is it just to prevent corrosion of the traces on a circuit board ???

gaussmarkov

Quote from: markm on May 10, 2006, 12:17:46 AM
What exactly is the advantage to tinning, is it just to prevent corrosion of the traces on a circuit board ???

to quote the great mark hammer:

Quote from: Mark Hammer on March 31, 2006, 11:23:54 AM
If you're satisfied with the state of the circuit and know you will remain so, then who the hell cares if the portions between the solder joints get whupped with an ugly stick.

In my own case, though, and for some other folks too, the idea of NOT being able to make post hoc mods and solder anything anywhere on the copper side is simply too painful to bear, so tinning of any kind which can preserve the solderability of the board is desirable.

Of course, like I say, there is absolutely nothing wrong with etching the board, populating it, soldering only the pads, and loving it as is for as long as you own it.

and the indefatigable R.G.

Quote from: R.G. on April 11, 2004, 09:20:40 PM
For the limited environment of pedals used for music making,  most of the things that eat copper traces do not occur. The copper will look bad, turn green, etc. but the pedal will work perfectly well. I recently ran into the first PCB I ever made. It's a 1971 vintage, going on 33 years old now. The copper's brown, and green where I didn't have the sense to clean off the flux, but the circuit works fine.

Obviously there aren't any absolutes here.

By the way, a neat trick to tin copper boards is to use a 4" wide length of brass pipe, about 3/4" diameter, well tinned with solder, and heated internally with a propane torch until the  solder flows. Paint the board with liquid flux, lay it trace side up on a heat resistant surface, get the heated pipe all loaded with solder and swipe it across the board - not quite roller tinned, and you'll have to do some touchup, but it's pretty good for a home deal, and much better than hand tinning.

Paul Perry (Frostwave)

The other thing is, if you want to work on an old PCB & it has gone unsolderable, if you wire brush it, it's good to go again :icon_wink:
Just don't wire brush it to the extent that the components fall out :icon_redface:

GFR

Quote from: markm on May 10, 2006, 12:17:46 AM
What exactly is the advantage to tinning, is it just to prevent corrosion of the traces on a circuit board ???

It looks cute :)

markm

Okay.
I agree with that. :icon_cool: