how to polish boxes?

Started by jimbob, June 30, 2006, 09:49:45 PM

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jimbob

Ive tried sandpaper, steel wool and still its a slow go- Im wanting to get an almost mirror finish for my aluminum bb size box. I even though about blue-ing (if thats the way you spell it) like a gun polish.

Any ideas?
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"

markm

If you wet sand with 1500 and then 2000 grit sandpaper, then move up to 0000 steel wool it will begin to look like chrome.



It's alot of work but eventually it looks nice.
Using a metal polishing compound such as Mother's aluminum wheel polish also will help to add the finishing touch.
I've also run them over a buffer in the Body Shop at work with highly successful results.
You won't be able to clear it though as when aluminum is this highly polished, nothing sticks!
Rest assured though, the metal polish does offer some protection.
  MarkM

Alex C

I don't know if you saw this thread.  The poster describes his process step by step, and it looks really good.  Hope that helps.

Mark, your stuff looks great too.

-Alex

stumper1

Quote from: markm on June 30, 2006, 10:06:13 PM

You won't be able to clear it though as when aluminum is this highly polished, nothing sticks!

  MarkM

I used a product called Glisten PC on the top of my wah pedal (Pics in the "Pictures" thread).  It's very easy to apply - can be brushed on - and when done properly is nearly indestructable.  Only down side is it takes forever to dry - about 4 days.
Deric®

Satch12879

#4
Hey stump, have you checked that product's specs to see if you could possibly heat cure the finish by baking the box?

By the way, the process outlined in the other thread for polishing aluminum is also the same method that cabinet makers use for finishing laquered furniture.  The only difference is that instead of the final metal polish stage, following the highest grade sandpaper, they'd use pumise and rottenstone which are both vulcanic ash of extremely fine grain size.  Both are applied wet, and the final finish is topped by clear paste wax.
Passive sucks.

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markm

Quote from: stumper1 on July 01, 2006, 12:58:39 AM
Quote from: markm on June 30, 2006, 10:06:13 PM

You won't be able to clear it though as when aluminum is this highly polished, nothing sticks!

  MarkM

I used a product called Glisten PC on the top of my wah pedal (Pics in the "Pictures" thread).  It's very easy to apply - can be brushed on - and when done properly is nearly indestructable.  Only down side is it takes forever to dry - about 4 days.

I've only tried Laquer, Enamel, and various other Acrylics with no luck.
Does the Glisten come in a spray??
I've toyed with the idea of trying Imron but, that stuff is Nasty.

stumper1

According to the data sheet - heat will not help it cure faster.  It says 4 days - I didn't believe it but it took 4 days - go figure.  It's a 3 part process.  First an Adhesion Promoter.  Then the PC is a 2 part clear.  Mix it up and spray or brush it on.  The extremely slow cure lets it flow out so there are no brush lines.  I wouldn't have believed that either untill I used it.  I used an airbrush but next time will probably just use a brush.  It's not cheap.  A pint w/hardener is ~$30.00.  The Adhesion Promoter is ~$10.00.  The up side is $40.00 will do a LOT of boxes.

FWIW- I have tried PPG's Deltron series of clears (almost ALL of them).  It's nasty stuff to spray AND it DOESN'T work on polished aluminum ( it's also WAY more expensive then the Glisten PC).  I do use it on all my painted boxes.

Markm,
Because it's a 2 part you can't get it in a spray can.  But again, I would have no reservations about using a brush.  No overspray!!!!  One thing to note: the guy at the paint store was very adamant about following the directions (go figure).  I followed them step by step and the results were fantastic.

It also seems to cure harder / scratch less than the PPG urethane clears.
Deric®

markm

Hey,
Thanks for that tidbit of info,
I may have to give that a try!
Again, Mucho Thanks  ;)

aron

Those polished boxes really look great!

JHS

Grindung w sandpaper is a lot of work, so I searched for an easier solution and finally found it in the industry:

A bath for a few seconds in a mixture of 3 Part HCL and 1 part HNO3 and after this a neutralisation bath in water.

AL-wheel rims for cars are often coated after polishing with a special laquer, maybe this will work on polished boxes too.

JHS





markm

Quote from: JHS on July 02, 2006, 04:27:53 AM

AL-wheel rims for cars are often coated after polishing with a special laquer, maybe this will work on polished boxes too.

JHS

I see this alot on new cars.
I am curious as to what they use to clearcoat those wheels.
Maybe I should make a call to GM or one of the companies that re-condition AL wheels to see what it is they spray on them.
I have been told by an unrelaible source that there is actually a clear primer that is used for aluminum but, I have yet to confirm this with anyone I know that handles paint.


kissack101

Would it be possible to stencil something onto a polished aluminium box with spray paint and then cover the whole thing in Glisten PC? I'm worried that the Glisten might react with the paint for example and it'd just chip off as before?

stumper1

I've had similar questions - I don't know.  I plan to experiment when I get the chance.
Deric®

markm

Good question,
Just try it. The very worst that could happen is you'd have to strip the box which isn't too big a deal
although, it is quite a drag to do.

Supa-T

Hey JHS.  Sanding is a lot of work. It would be great if it could be done with the magic of chemistry.  Have you tried that method on stompboxes?  I'm wondering if it works on the Hammond alloy.  Post a pic if you would!

hmm... but then what to do with all this sandpaper?