Waterslide Decals

Started by adding_to_the_noise, July 03, 2006, 02:35:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

adding_to_the_noise

Okay so I'me building a tube screamer and I just finished painting the enclosure an amazing color of green and began working with the warterslide decals from small bear. Unfortunately, the decal softener that I bought from Hobby Lobby turned the ink pink, and the krylon short cuts spray gloss didn't seal it and the ink ran. Also the spray gloss had a weird bumpy texture that was not appealing at all. I'm using the inkjet decals with my Lexmark printer and I can't seem to find the right combination of spray and drying time to seal the ink onto the decals. What spray should I use and what's the best procedure for applying the decals?

KORGULL

I believe that the decal softener that Small Bear sells is only meant to be used on laser printer decal stock. Maybe yours is similar. Either way, I guess the softener is eating through the gloss coat and you just have to avoid applying it where there is ink underneath. I have no experience with that stuff though, so I'm just hypothesizing here.

I've been using Krylon matte clear coat on the decals before applying them: http://www.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=8&productid=1816&content=product_details. It doesn't seem as thick as some other products, is waterproof, and dries smooth. Once the decals are applied and patted dry, I let the box/decals sit overnight. I use a thicker, glossier clear enamel when I finally coat the whole box.

jimbob

I use and do the same thing as KORGULL. Works easier that way. Im using a laser printer named Fred and using the stuff I bought from Steve. I have still yet to use the ink paper stuff.
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"

Dave_B

I found that I was going way too light on the sealer paint, not covering it enough and causing the ink to run.  I believe Mr. Hammer advised us to do a couple of very light "dust coats" before doing a final sealer.  That worked well on some of my smaller experiments.  I have yet to get a full-face decal on a box without screwing it up with wrinkles.  :icon_confused:
Help build our Wiki!

R2e

I use clear acrylic spray (automotive) for both laser and inkjet decals, a couple of light coats then a wet coat and I've had no problems (I've been doing this for ages for guitar decals and the like)

Izzy

Hi I had one queswtion to all the people :

How do you use decal to transfer the Graphics layout into a White painted hammond box?

Can anyone tell me the steps?
Thanks In advance!

zarathustra

As far as I know, (1) decal softener only works on laser decal paper, not inkjet, and (2) inkjet decal paper needs to be sprayed pretty thoroughly with some sort of fixative before getting it wet. Like everybody else, I spray a good two or three coats of Krylon on there and let it dry overnight. Also, make sure your ink is good and dry before you spray the Krylon.

Izzy

Quote from: Izzy on January 13, 2007, 10:44:26 PM
Hi I had one queswtion to all the people :

How do you use decal to transfer the Graphics layout into a White painted hammond box?

Can anyone tell me the steps?
Thanks In advance!


Can anybody answer my question?

Barcode80

not sure what you are asking Izzy. why would transferring decal onto a white painted box be any different that anything else?

yeeshkul

#9
Izzy use search. I was looking for the same answer time ago and eventually found it here.

The most important things are:
- absolutely clean surface without any scratches or poking bits at all (sand paper) - even matt colour seem to give worse results than glazy one.
- people say that the printed slide should be straight - put it under a pile of books first if necessary
- put the print into warm water until it moves on the paper-background and gently slide it onto your box
- carefully remove all the possible air-bubbles using something like kitchen-damper and let it harden for 24 hours (don't touch it).
...
i was gonna try this but was put off by the price in graphic studio. In the end i used a transparent sticker which was about one third of the price... and it doesn't need any clear coat - the colour soaks into the sticker diring the printing.

Izzy

Thanks Mate , I did use serach but I coulnt find the steps to do it.

I still havent understood how this thing works.
Isnt it like a stiker? NO?

Is there any article with pictures?

yeeshkul

It is pretty much like a sticker just not as thick so after clear coating it may look as a part of the surface. It must be clearcoated cos it is very vulnerable for scratches and mechanical damage in general. That's what i think :). It is that thing people decorate they Eastern Eggs with ...

thumposaurus

This isn't a pictorial dedicated to pedals, but the concepts are the same.
(Not my page BTW it was the first result when I searched google)
http://www.paperminis.com/tutorials/tutorial_decals.htm
Yorn desh born, der ritt de gitt der gue,
Orn desh, dee born desh, de umn bork! bork! bork!

Izzy

Oh now I get it.

One question thoughm I an planning to use the Tape (What you call them? Water tape? ) To protect decal after it has been transfered.
Is that Ok instead of using color coat?