How to make PCB?

Started by johnnybegoode, September 27, 2006, 12:18:26 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

johnnybegoode

Which way to making PCB is cheaper?

Which transfer?
1.Tonal Transfer?
2.Transparency + Photoresist ready board?

Are there any other home made methods?
and How?

Thanks!

Dave_B

Press and Peel is cheaper than photo transparencies if you're starting from scratch. 

This page has some info and tutorials on the different methods, though it could use a lttle work. 
http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=PrintedCircuitBoards
Help build our Wiki!

johnnybegoode

Is there any difference between photo transparency and transparency sheet?
Thought transparency sheet is cheaper, but not those photoresist ready board.

Has anyone tried using laser printer to print onto transpanency sheet then use
photoresist spay on a copper clad board to do the transfer?

Thought that Tonal Transfer using glossy paper is cheaper than press n peel?
http://pacificsun.ca/~robert/pcb/pcb.htm

+
Why do you use these?
ammonium persulphate or ferric chloride
Do you have to heat ammonium persulphate like ferric chloride?


axeman010

Hi

I have had good results from using glossy photo paper and a laser printer and the good thing is that the cheaper photo paper works the best.

A few things that I found which made a real difference to the quality :

Always warm the copper board up first with the iron before placing the paper on to the board. Miles better transfer this way.
When you have finished ironing the board put it straight in to a bowl of warm water. This  fixes the toner to the board. Then leave the board in the warm water until the paper goes sort of transparent. DONT TRY AND PEEL THE PAPER OFF !!
Gently rub the back of the paper until it breaks up. Mine had a plastic layer first and once this came away the paper was easy to remove.
Always rinse the board well to remove any etch solution still on the board.

I design my own PCB using FREPCB and either GCpreview or Viewnmate to print the design. Its worth doing a few test print to plain paper to check the track thickness before going to photo paper. There seems to be an issue with the way that some laser printers print the image. Horizontal and vertical lines seem to be OK but other angles sometimes come out thinner than the original image. If this is the case then just thicken them up in the software and test again. Avoid right angle track joins as these do not transfer to the board to well.

You use ammonium persulphate or ferric chloride to remove the unwanted copper from the board. I prefer ammonium persulphate as you can see the board as it etches so you can take it out as soon as the unwanted copper has gone. These solutions work quicker if they are warm. When I mix up the solution I use warm water from the kettle to get a temperature  of 50C. I use a plastic Chinese take away tray with a lid and then rap in an old rag to keep the heat in. Stir the solution every few minutes to get an even strength across the board and therefore even track widths. If the temperature goes to low then just bung the container in the microwave for 10 to 20 seconds.

Hope this helps.
Hanging on in quiet desperation is the english way

Mark Hammer

There is a LOT of excellent advice in the archives from a lot of people on etching using the different pattern transfer methods.  You should really do a thorough search.  I think you'll find it is faster than waiting for the same advice to show up here.

Good luck, and enjoy! :icon_biggrin:  Etching is easier than you think, and it is extremely satisfying to look at a nice gleaming board that can be every bit as good as what you buy in the music store.

$uperpuma

There is a photoessay on tonepad.com that goes step by step with the etching process... its how I learned :)
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.

goosonique

Ha ...look who is here  ;D

Ok fella go read this
<((one man with courage makes a majority))>

johnnybegoode

Which Laser Printer to print on inkjet paper.

I'm contemplating getting a laser printer. Would like to do Tonal Transfer.

I read on some manual that warn of using ink-jet paper that might jam or damage the monochrome laser printer.

Which monochrome laser printer do you all use or have experience with?

Current models within my budget are:
Fuji Xerox DP203A
Sumsung ML-1610
HP 1020
Konica Minolta 1300W

Any advice?

johnnybegoode

Which injet paper have you all tried?

which is widely available and cost effective?

$uperpuma

i use a samsung ml1210 To print on pnp blue and it works like a champ
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.

goosonique

....chill ...just any laser printer with a norm paper with will do the trick ... :icon_wink:
What we need is the toner material which is etch resistant ....Do a few small ones first till you get the hang of it !!

<((one man with courage makes a majority))>

choklitlove

Quote from: goosonique on September 27, 2006, 09:30:01 PM
Ha ...look who is here  ;D

Ok fella go read this

referring to that link: i saw that episode after reading that page.  i've been a long time fan of strange days.  when they dipped the board in ferric chloride, it sizzled.  that's never happened for me.  i thought that was pretty funny, but that show is cool as all hell.
my band.                    my DIY page.                    my solo music.

johnnybegoode

Quote from: goosonique on October 03, 2006, 12:59:31 AM
....chill ...just any laser printer with a norm paper with will do the trick ... :icon_wink:
What we need is the toner material which is etch resistant ....Do a few small ones first till you get the hang of it !!



how to know the toner material is etch resistant, which should be the ingredients of the toners? Ain't all the toner of laser printer etch resistant?


$uperpuma

all laser toners are etch resistant, to my knowledge.  I think thats what he was trying to say to you.
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.