Muff Fuzz Build problem

[Barcode80]

I have completed the Muff Fuzz circuit, but i got it all wired to the jacks and pot to test it, and i get no signal in either mode. i'm using those plastic marshall type jacks. is there anything special i need to do for grounding? i only ask because i have tested the switch for continuity and have checked the wiring, so signal flow is as it should be. HELP!

[Meanderthal]

 Did you go from the EH Boosters schematics that been floating around forever? If so the clipping diodes are all wrong- they should go from signal to ground, not signal to 9v. Or did you build the opamp version...?
Or was it from a layout in the gallery? 

[Barcode80]

i used the layout in torchy's gallery:

http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album28/Muff_Fuzz

it appears diodes are to ground, just as you suggested. anything else? i'm still thinking it's a grounding problem... i just can't find it. i'm getting a very low level hum, which i know is usually symptomatic of grounding issues, and since this is my first build with those plastic jacks, i keep thinking they have something to do with it. i mean, if the signal isn't grounded properly, no signal will come through on either status, right?

[Meanderthal]

 Ok, the tranny version it is... Did you remember to cut the trace under C2? Also, check the polarity on C1... Check over your offboard wiring... Your output would be from lug 2(middle) of R6.
Those plastic jacks work fine as long as you solder to the correct lugs. Check that too...

[petemoore]

  Both jacks [plastic] must have a ground wire to each of their sleeves...

[Barcode80]

a ground wire from the chassis? because they are wired like so...



This should be right, correct?

[Meanderthal]

 Ummm... I've been known to wire up those 3pdt switches sideways.  It looks like it'll work fine as posted, but not if the switch is oriented sideways... check for that...

Ok, as posted, if you were to draw a line thru the 3 rows of holes the lines should go north-south, not east-west.

[nightingale]

Hi,
If your DMM has a continuity tester?? You need to "ring-out" the jacks with a patch cable and find the sleeve lugs on the jacks.
As Pete said: the sleeves have to be grounded on the cliff jacks. I had the same problem on an old bosstone build. If I remember correctly,  I had to ground both sleeves to the enclosure ground to get the pedal to work even in true bypass mode.

hope this helps,
ry

[Barcode80]

Ummm... I've been known to wire up those 3pdt switches sideways.  It looks like it'll work fine as posted, but not if the switch is oriented sideways... check for that...

Ok, as posted, if you were to draw a line thru the 3 rows of holes the lines should go north-south, not east-west.

checked that before i started the thread, switch is oriented fine and tested for continuity after wiring to be sure.

Hi,
If your DMM has a continuity tester?? You need to "ring-out" the jacks with a patch cable and find the sleeve lugs on the jacks.
As Pete said: the sleeves have to be grounded on the cliff jacks. I had the same problem on an old bosstone build. If I remember correctly,  I had to ground both sleeves to the enclosure ground to get the pedal to work even in true bypass mode.

hope this helps,
ry

i was afraid of that. okay, so I will try a chassis star ground tied to the jacks and test it out. will post results.

EDIT: by the way, with the marshall jacks you don't have to use a continuity checker to get the TRS lugs, you can see them from the top

[slacker]

The grounding in your picture is fine, you probably want to add a ground wire to the chassis somewhere as well but that won't stop it working.
Are your jack sockets the ones that have the normally closed connections? So the mono ones have 4 solder tags and the stereo ones have 6. On these you need to make sure that you use the tags that are touching the jack when it's inserted otherwise you get no sound, I know because I've done it 
Plug a cable in and then check for continuity between the tip and sleeve of the other jack and the solder tags to see which ones to use.

[Barcode80]

just to indulge you all i continuity tested the jacks, and my wiring is correct. i want to thank you guys for your help while pointing out that the marshall jacks are open topped, so miswiring was unlikely since you can see what connects what i do appreciate all the help though. still no luck on making it work, but i will keep trying...

[Barcode80]

ugh. my apologies, i now get what you are syaing. i'm not sure how things wouldn't touch, but upon further examination i realized what you meant in that only one half of the lugs actually touch cable. i'm off to resolder and i'll post results...

[Barcode80]

okay, rewired and can hear a slight hum, which allowed me to test the pot, which worked. however, on a hunch i used the continuity tester to check the circuit. i'm not supposed to get a beep when i test from 9v to circuit ground, right?

[Meanderthal]

 Yeah, when the circuit's powered up you should have continuity all right... but not when you're unplugged from the input.

[Barcode80]

well crap, i'm about to scrap this project and move on. i'm getting frustrated because i checked every vero row for solder bridges and double checked my wiring, even turned over the jacks and rested the ground terminals on a steel enclosure, with no luck....  anyone want a populated muffmaster vero? 

[Meanderthal]

 LOL! don't feel bad... I have a drawer full of abandoned builds. I usually just move on myself... or start over from scratch. Sometimes you get the bear, sometimes the bear gets you. It happens...
Sometimes if you get frustrated it helps to take a couple days to cool off and then the solution jumps right out at you when you get back at it...

[Ge_Whiz]

Audio probe! Audio probe!