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Press-n-wet?

Started by Psych0F0x, November 21, 2006, 06:22:31 PM

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Psych0F0x

Hi, anyone ever used press-n-wet? I already printed some layouts but now I'm not really sure if I printed on the right side(I didn't iron it on yet). I've read on this site : http://www.techniks.com/how_to.htm that I should print on the dull side(on normal pnp that is) but I did it on the shiny-ish side on the pnw(press-n-wet) . Any tips on this kind of pnp? It's also my first time etching.

FYI it looks like it's photopaper, opposed to the blue semi-transparant pnp I see everywhere.

markm

I myself am not famaliar with this method.
Do you have a link to this material?

Psych0F0x

unfortunately they only thing I could find on this stuff is the page where I ordered it and it doesn't say that much:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Press-n-Wet-pr-16119.html

Auke Haarsma

I'm pretty sure it should be on the shiny sides, as you have it now. Just try it on a small area, you can always scratch off the stuff again. And if it's on the wrong side, it won't transfer.

Samy

I have tried that already but the results were quite different.
The first sheet i ordered the results were perfect, it was easy to transfer and easy to peel off, it was easier to make pcb´s than the blue pnp . The second and third sheet was a complete disaster ! The toner transfer was very very bad.
There are two possible reasons for this, the quality of the sheets was different or it was my toner´s fault because i changed it. With the blue pres-n-peel it was always perfect with both toner's ....
I´m happy with blue pnp, my success it´s almost 100% because at the beginning when i didn´t know the correct temperature, i failed one pcb.....

Psych0F0x

Thanks all, it's the shiny side so it was good(kinda). I made  2 ruby PCBs yesterday and the first one didn't work out. The second one went pretty good but I can't see very well if I'm placing the layout right. With both attempts I didn't get all of the layout on the board, so I tried to iron those parts again. This was especially awkward because I already made the paper wet but it still was able to transfer the untransfered parts of the layout on to the board(except for the first attempt).

I guess I will try the pnp blue next time.

btw anyone tried the ultrabright blue leds from banzai effects? I find them not that bright at all?


Samy

Quote from: Psych0F0x on November 23, 2006, 04:23:10 AM
btw anyone tried the ultrabright blue leds from banzai effects? I find them not that bright at all?
What led color ? I use them all the time and they are quite bright, specially the blue one. You must check how many mcd´s are they.
Have you used the correct led resistor ?

Psych0F0x

The blue ones, 8000mcd 5mm, also RGB multicolor and some other colors. I only tried 1 blue led and 1 RGB multicolor, but it was pretty stupid of me to forget about changing resistor values. I guess I should try some smaller values, I used 4k7, since that worked well with this other very bright blue LED I bought elsewhere.

Psych0F0x

Is it me or does PnP wet just mess up easily?



Don't even say a thing about my sawing skills, that was just awful..

My point is that it's easy not to get the layout on the board.. Might be because these are like one of the first boards I ever did..
Maybe it's the pnp wet? Just curious.

It's kind of annoying to redo the bad traces after you wet the paper, how is PnP blue in this situation?

Any people know where to find these so called "sharpies" here in the Netherlands?

coffyrock

it's my understanding that any laquer-based permanent marker will work, not just "sharpie" brand. I would assume laquer paint would also work as a resistant to etching, but that's just a guess as I've never tried that.

(Side note: POST 100 for me!!)
Built so far: ROG Ruby, matching pair of LPB2s, Mr. Clean, Easy Drive,
Next up: Bazz Fuss, ROG Grace Overdrive, Smashdrive.

rockgardenlove

Quote from: coffyrock on January 13, 2007, 09:08:55 PM
it's my understanding that any laquer-based permanent marker will work, not just "sharpie" brand. I would assume laquer paint would also work as a resistant to etching, but that's just a guess as I've never tried that.

(Side note: POST 100 for me!!)
Sharpie works great! 



Paul Perry (Frostwave)

Sawing?? I find scoring a line with a tile cutter scriber & then snapping along the line, works miles better, plus less dust & safer too. (I use the fiberglass stuff, not sure how it would be with other bases - or is it all fiberglass now?)

BN

I use a bench-mounted sheet metal cutter instead of sawing. It may work with the smaller handheld "pliers-type" of sheet metal cutters as well. The results are much better this way.
"Rock 'n roll keeps you young, but you can only get away with that for so long. Eventually you become too old to stay young. And I think that's the point I reached" - David St. Hubbins

coxter

What the main difference between PNP blue and PNP wet?

Their website doesnt say anything