Electronic switching

Started by Barcode80, December 04, 2006, 05:53:21 PM

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Barcode80

I have asked this when working on various pedals and couldn't really get a clear answer, even though i've also search-functioned-it. in commercial effects, how do you remove the fet switching used by DOD, Boss, Digitech, etc? I really want to work up a clone layout for some of the Performer pedals DOD put out in the late 70's to early 80's, particularly this great delay i'm repairing. I'm keeping the electronic switching on the one i'm repairing, but i would love to clone a couple of these suckers! especially since i have been told that the performer chorus was decent.

i know the area on the schem where the jfets are arranged in a kind of "x" fashion is the mechanism, i just don't know what other parts need to be removed to convert it to a usable DIY schem for use with a 3pdt.

Rafa

well Im sorry, but Ive got another question related to this but Im interested in adding electronic switching to my pedals how can I do that?
Cheers
Rafa

Barcode80

cool, maybe we can get both birds with one stone. any heavyweights wanna get in on this explanation? RG, Doug, etc????

RaceDriver205

For the boss effects, Id say the easiest way is just to remove the switching FETs and the Flip-Flop circuit that controls them. Then you can true bypass.
Heres a good page for INSTALLING electronic switches:
http://us.geocities.com/thetonegod/switches/switches.html

Satch12879

Kevin O'Connor's London Power series of books delves heavily into electronic switching methods of all types...

As for removing electronic switching, I personally wouldn't but if you really want to, find the JFETs that shunt to ground and you're halfway there.
Passive sucks.

Progressive Sound, Ltd.
progressivesoundltd@yahoo.com

boogietube

Look for the member that's called : Morocotopo
He has posted layouts of a boss switching setup.

Search function is your friend:
Type in: fet bypass switching. You'll be amazed!
   
Pedals Built- Morley ABC Box, Fultone A/B Box, DIY Stompboxes True Bypass box, GGG Drop in Wah, AMZ Mosfet Boost, ROG Flipster, ROG Tonemender, Tonepad Big Muff Pi.
On the bench:  Rebote 2.5,  Dr Boogie, TS808

RaceDriver205

QuoteSearch function is your friend
ARGH! AGHRghr (Pardon me, people saying that drives me insane)

Barcode80

doesn't bother me when they say that, they are usually right. but in this case i already had searched. i guess what i am looking for is help on identifying the parts of a schematic that are the switching. after scanning over the 585 schem, it looks like the circled area below might be the switching. what do you guys think?

Barcode80


boogietube

QuoteQuote
Search function is your friend
ARGH! AGHRghr (Pardon me, people saying that drives me insane)

Sorry- The only time I have ever said it was then. I'll refrain in the future.
Pedals Built- Morley ABC Box, Fultone A/B Box, DIY Stompboxes True Bypass box, GGG Drop in Wah, AMZ Mosfet Boost, ROG Flipster, ROG Tonemender, Tonepad Big Muff Pi.
On the bench:  Rebote 2.5,  Dr Boogie, TS808

RaceDriver205

I say you just keep the electronic switching. Smallbear sells push-putton foot switches too.

Barcode80

too many parts, with the cost of these IC's, if i'm going to clone it i need to trim parts counts.

RaceDriver205

The parts you circled are not the expensive ones. The NE571s and MNs are the expensive ones. The MN3005 alone costs $25 US. I would recommend you build a Rebote 2 Delay instead. The word 'Analog' makes it sound nice, but there's no difference in sound quality for a delay. Indeed, people have said Analog delays tend to be more noisy.
I have an Rebote 2, and its sound quality is brilliant. Of course, the cheaper parts and simpler design make it even more brilliant ;).
Trust me, save your money and build a Rebote 2.

Barcode80

heh i ahd already planned on building the rebote, but i'm very attached to the sound of this delay and want to make a new one. anyhow, for now i'm replacing all the parts save the ics and trannies and etched a new board to do so, so i'll probably be fine until the new and improved version breaks :)

RaceDriver205

Well Im thinking your right in removing the circles components. Also Id say remove the FET and short the two lines it connects to together. Or possibly connect them together with a small resistor. Also remove the parts connected to the gate (base) of the FET.

darron

i've never used it, but i'll be sure to in the future. if you want to add electronic switching you could try the millennium bypass. i can't hook you up with the schematic but search and it'll be really easy. it's supposed to be a really quite electronic switch
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

MartyMart

Barcode, I woudn't bother with that Dod 585, I had one for a short while and the max
delay was soooo short ( about 200msec before howling started) that it was only useful for Country slapback
or rockabilly sounds ... perhaps MarkM would be interested !!  :icon_wink:

I would get something better or build a rebote or some PT3322.... whatever, chip it is !
delay, with at least 300-400 msec's available.
I was very dissapointed with my 585 and just sold it on asap ....!

MM.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm"
My Website www.martinlister.com