PC Board-Making Tutorial

Started by smallbearelec, December 11, 2006, 12:41:37 AM

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smallbearelec

Getting this done was of a piece with finding the bits and pieces for the kit; I had always wanted to have my own FAQ for beginners, but I also wanted to be able to sell more or less everything that I showed in the pics.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/DirectPCBoards/DirectPCBoards.htm

rockgardenlove

Cool! 

One thing too...I've been using your sodium persulfate, and hours are far from normal from what I've seen.  I use a 250 watt heat lamp I bought at the hardware store to heat it up, it works fantastically.  It's much nicer than putting it on your stove or in hot water, really easy.  With some heat boards get done really fast. 




Pushtone


Nice work, I like your tutorial.


Is the double sided tape really necessary? Looks like an extra scraping step that could be avoided.
I just use scotch tape to hole the PnP to the paper. Works fine.


Also I would like to see a warning about the harmful dust produced by drilling/sawing a PCB. Thoses things are loaded with fire retardant and the fine particles act like asbestos.

The solution is wet drilling and your score and snap method to cut down on dust.

Check out this
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44440.0
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

Gilles C

Steve, this is the best tutorial and the closest one to the method I use, except that you took it closer to perfection.

Cool!

What I mean is that this is mainly what I do, but I learned a few things that I should add to my method. Things where I still had problems or where I had something I could make better. I like the use of the double side tape to hold the piece of PNP.

Thanks for posting it.

Gilles

Mark Hammer

Full-service parts dealer.  Full-service tutorial. :icon_biggrin:

smallbearelec

Thank you so much for your feedback. As I implied in the piece, "best practice" with these processes is often elastic--we do what works, changing over time to accommodate better tools and materials.

Quote from: Pushtone on December 11, 2006, 03:30:46 PM
Is the double sided tape really necessary?

Maybe I'm paranoid. My concern was having the possibility of even a trace of adhesive getting into the paper path and causing a jam, because I would often do transfers on printers or copiers at the office.

Quote from: Pushtone on December 11, 2006, 03:30:46 PM
... a warning about the harmful dust produced by drilling/sawing a PCB...
The solution is wet drilling

I do note the need for gloves and mask, but the idea of wetting the work is interesting. My first thought was: Spray bottle?, and then I went to your link. Cool!

Quote from: rockgardenlove on December 11, 2006, 02:27:11 AM
I've been using your sodium persulfate... I use a 250 watt heat lamp to heat it up 

I wondered about this, as the inconvenience of a hot plate, etc., is a turnoff. So it really doesn't take much heat! I'd be reluctant to expose that plastic tray to a high-wattage bulb, but maybe an ordinary desk lamp would do at the right distance. I will give it a shot for rev. 2, and thanks!

SD

rockgardenlove

I think maybe you underestimate the heating potential of a 150w heat lamp...that thing gets HOT and FAST.  I toggle it on and off to keep it a good temperature, otherwise the mixture starts evaporating!

I bought a Pyrex cooking dish type thing while I was at the hardware store, it's a good size and the sides are high enough that you don't have to worry about spilling it ever.

I then stuck together a little stand using some wood scraps and spare nails, and onto that I clamp my heat lamp.


This works VERY well. 

As you can see I put it in front of the couch so I can play videogames while it etches.   :icon_biggrin:  At the end of every level I give it a little shake to keep it going. 




Gilles C

To heat the etchant, I prefer to place the etchant in a plastic tray that I put in a larger having hot water in it.

I find it safer, and having the etchant tray float a bit in the water makes it easier to keep the etchant moving.

You just change the water for new one when it's getting colder.

Gilles

snoof

Very nice!  Thanks for putting together this tutorial :icon_mrgreen:

Pushtone

I've used both the hot water bath and a 100 watt bulb in a clip lamp placed an inch or two over a plastic tupperware container.

Both work. 100 watts gets hot but not hot enough to make the plastic soft.


Hey Steve, is there a section on disposing of used Ferric chloride?
There is a really good thread here with info on disposal.
I would also like to see you urge readers to dispose of materials in an environmental friendly way.
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

rockgardenlove

I've got all my spent ferric chloride and sodium persulfate in a big old pickle jar...where should I put it now that it's spent?



Pushtone

Quote from: rockgardenlove on December 12, 2006, 02:08:27 PM
I've got all my spent ferric chloride and sodium persulfate in a big old pickle jar...where should I put it now that it's spent?


http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.0
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

markm

Steve,
Great job on the tutorial, very informative.
A link to this tutorial should go into the FAQ -or- WIKI  :icon_wink:

smallbearelec

DISPOSAL!!!

Thanks!! I willl add the notes ASAP!