The most important things to remember when painting your stompbox....

[soulsonic]

Any brand recommendations for a Lacquer clear coat? I love the Rustoleum Crystal Clear, but that's an Enamel clear coat.
I prefer something in a spray can.

Greenfuz.... what temp did you do that at? I've never had anything even close to that happen. I do my baking at 175^oF. The can of paint I use says, "Not To Be Used On Surfaces Which Exceed 200^oF", so I figured 175^o was good number to go with.

[theundeadelvis]

Any brand recommendations for a Lacquer clear coat? I love the Rustoleum Crystal Clear, but that's an Enamel clear coat.
I prefer something in a spray can.

I always use Plasti-Kote Super Lacquer in a rattle can.

[bluesdevil]

Soulsonic - Rust-Oleum makes a clear lacquer too. I get mine at Walmart.

[soulsonic]

I'll look for that stuff... but not at Wal-Mart. I won't shop there - I've boycotted them permanently because I find them to be loathsome in all respects.

[markm]

Any brand recommendations for a Lacquer clear coat? I love the Rustoleum Crystal Clear, but that's an Enamel clear coat.
I prefer something in a spray can.

Are you wanting to use Laquer?

[GREEN FUZ]

Greenfuz.... what temp did you do that at? I've never had anything even close to that happen. I do my baking at 175^oF. The can of paint I use says, "Not To Be Used On Surfaces Which Exceed 200^oF", so I figured 175^o was good number to go with.

My oven doesn`t have temperature control so I just used to check the progress every now and then. In this case I got distracted and when I came back it was somewhat over-grilled.

I`ll try not to bore you with all the details but basically it started off white. When I baked that it turned a yellowish-brown so I decided to redo it in purple. While attempting to apply the decal I found it wasn`t adhering too well so I had the brainwave of using white glue to help matters. That sort of did the trick but I had used too much glue and felt a quick blast in the oven would sort it out.

The after picture is the result of several layers of paint, plastic and glue, grilled, blistered and sanded to a finish which I like to call 'Purple Haze'

Well it is a Fuzz Face.

[Fuzzy-Train]

I really don't know how I missed this thread... fantastic info and tips guys.

You say to drill before you paint. Do you ever have to scrape out paint from the drilled holes cause the pot/jack/switch etc... doesn't fit anymore? Also if you painted before drilling could you use tape (like that blue painters tape) over the hole you're going to drill to prevent scratches/swirl marks.

[QSQCaito]

Put scotch on the inside of the hole Masking tape sorry. That way you drill before and are safe from scracthes + avoid havinf to sand inner part ofholes.

[bumblebee]

Cool little tutorial, sadly i learned this the hard way last month and it cost me hours of sanding and re-painting.

I'll be sure to follow these tips on the next one.

thanks AC + MM!

[nebucanazza]

So how should one proceed when you all you have is a pre-powder coated enclosure? I have some real nice ones (imported with considerable efforts) from PPP, which I dont wanna screw up while drilling. Any tips on how to minimize possible damage while drilling a pre-painted enclosure will be highly appreciated!

[bumblebee]

Ive drilled heaps of powder coated enclosures and had no problems as powder coating is pretty hard and thick.
if you want precaution masking tape should prevent any slips from scratching it.

Always use a nail and hammer or similar to mark the drill position, this prevents slips also, in fact i cant seem to drill without doing it.

[Ronsonic]

So how should one proceed when you all you have is a pre-powder coated enclosure? I have some real nice ones (imported with considerable efforts) from PPP, which I dont wanna screw up while drilling. Any tips on how to minimize possible damage while drilling a pre-painted enclosure will be highly appreciated!

I use masking tape on the enclosure to mark where I want to drill. I also add a strip on each panel that may rest on the drill press bed so that it won't get scratched. No problemo. The PPP boxes are pretty darn rugged and you have to handle them pretty badly to scratch them.

Ron

[nebucanazza]

Cool!! I guess I have nothing to worry about then.

[QSQCaito]

I have one question though. I don't use decals, I can't find them here in Argentina. So I bought t-shirt transfer.. which is transfered with the iron. The problem is that I chose the wrong one, bought inkjet rather than laserjet ones. Would you recommend spraying clearcoat first?Then transfer, then clear coat.

Other question is, while I transfer.. will the painting de-colour?

[Rawkgod]

My experience of baking the painted enclosure is not so positive.

Before After



As previously mentioned baking also discolours the finish.

Oh, How Unfortunate!

[goldenmonkeycolor]

sorry to bring up an old topic, but i'm just starting to spray paint my enclosures and I was wondering if 600 grit is really enough?  i've gotten two different types of bare enclosures too.  those rough completely non shiny ones and the ones that look kinda shiny. 

have i been wasting time sanding with 150 then 00 and 000 steel wool?  i was thinking i was going too smooth.

also anyone know anything about clear coating over stamps and staz on ink?  what about baking a clear coat over staz-on?

[goldenmonkeycolor]

one more thing- what about those rustoleum cans that are 'paint and primer in one'?  the hammer-tone's ive done so far look pretty dang good, but i also sanded the crap out of them.

[tone seeker]

  600 grit sandpaper should work fine. Than apply a Self-Etch primer, for the best adhesion. Unless you want a nice smooth metal finish, there is no need to go that
far, if your going to paint it.

sorry to bring up an old topic, but i'm just starting to spray paint my enclosures and I was wondering if 600 grit is really enough?  i've gotten two different types of bare enclosures too.  those rough completely non shiny ones and the ones that look kinda shiny. 

have i been wasting time sanding with 150 then 00 and 000 steel wool?  i was thinking i was going too smooth.

also anyone know anything about clear coating over stamps and staz on ink?  what about baking a clear coat over staz-on?

[tone seeker]

 Something to keep in mind, is you do not want to put lacquer clear coat over Enamel! Lacquer dry's very fast, and Enamel takes much longer to cure. So, this
can cause a wrinkling effect, because solvents get trapped.

It's also a good idea to use automotive grade masking tape (like 3m) for nice clean lines. They also have a blue fine line tape, to tape off curvy designs. You
can find better tape, and masking items, at a automotive paint store.

[petey twofinger]

using a toaster oven , in my case i found it would not help things to run it at higher temps . i try to keep it ow at 100-150.the model i got honestly runs at 150 and up so ....

i used two old bookshelf speakers , cut large panels out  and added plexi glass windows . these stack on top o f one another , with a light bulb fixture on the "cieling" .

this box can run at 90 degrees with a small low watt  florescent bullb . it has a digital thermometer , and a kitchen magnet style thermometer in side there .

i can run it at 90 deress which i find works well for curing clear cote .

i messed up some clears in the toaster oven , running it at 150 .

most of the krylon clear i used , it took an awful long time to cure , so far the rustolem clear has been working really well for me .  i found i didnt really need the oven and light box. just patience , but that krylon , not sure if it was old or what ... i was not a happy boy.