How To add an LED

[DanAngus]

Hey Guys

Im new to this stuff and i just want to know how to add an LED to your pedal!

Thanks

~Dan

[superfish]

look in the DIY FAQ. shows how to wire an LED with true bypass.

[Mick Bailey]

I use the mark 1 Millennium Bypass in every build nowadays. It means you get true bypass with a standard DPDT switch and an LED. No problems at all and can be built on a piece of 4X4 hole Vero and shrink-wrapped. I make a few in advance.

Further details here;
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm

[demonstar]

Like Mick, I quite like the millenium bypass when I add an LED however you could use a 3PDT instead. You would use the third pair of poles to switch an LED and current limiting resistor in series connected between V+ and GND on and off. It's really late here so thats a poor explanation and quick but if you look at the offboard wiring schemes at tonepad you'll understand. Everything you need should be there.

Any questions ask?

[Radamus]

DO you need to have the switch at the beginning and at the end of the effect? Couldn't one at the beginning or one at the end do the same thing? (I'm aware this is an uninformed question). Does the signal get polluted or split under these conditions? Any way I can save some money on switches, I'd like to know.

Is the point of Millennium Bypass that it puts an LED in the way of current but not the signal? That way it will light up and not need the third set of pins?

[demonstar]

Hey Radamus I think this may help you...

Go to geo and search... 'The Ins and Outs of Effect Bypassing'

"http://www.geofex.com/"

[rikkards]

That is exactly what it is for. 3pdt are usually more expensive than a DPDT switch (which is used for the true bypass (which you should read the link mentioned by demonstar) so what the millenium bypass does is give you the ability to use a dpdt and a smart little circuit that will turn the led on and off depending on the state of the switch. The answer to your first question is through out "The Ins and Outs of Effect Bypassing". The pollution you are talking about is usually referred to as tone-suckage.
Not sure if you noticed but this forum does have search capabilities so chances are any question you need answering can already be found. And if not, there is a wealth of experts in the field who are willing to help!

DO you need to have the switch at the beginning and at the end of the effect? Couldn't one at the beginning or one at the end do the same thing? (I'm aware this is an uninformed question). Does the signal get polluted or split under these conditions? Any way I can save some money on switches, I'd like to know.

Is the point of Millennium Bypass that it puts an LED in the way of current but not the signal? That way it will light up and not need the third set of pins?

[DanAngus]

Hey Guys all i need to know is where to connect the 2 "legs" on the LED to. So the LED goes on the the effect is on and the LED goes off when it is off..

Thanks

~Dan

[rikkards]

That depends on how you are connecting it. Decide if you are going to do something along the lines of the Millenium or 3PDT (which in general is easier to do right away but is more pricey)
Usually the longer leg of the LED is the + side. It should look like this:
+9v
|
|
+
LED
-
|
Gnd

Hey Guys all i need to know is where to connect the 2 "legs" on the LED to. So the LED goes on the the effect is on and the LED goes off when it is off..

Thanks

~Dan

[dxm1]

It should look like this:

+9v
|
|
+
LED
-
|
Gnd

Which would be a good way to produce the magic smoke...  You're going to need a current limiting resistor on one side of the LED or the other, like this:

+9v
|
/
\
/
|
+
LED
-
|
Gnd


3K3 to 10K will work, depending on your LED and how bright you want it.

[DanAngus]

That depends on how you are connecting it. Decide if you are going to do something along the lines of the Millenium or 3PDT (which in general is easier to do right away but is more pricey)
Usually the longer leg of the LED is the + side. It should look like this:
+9v
|
|
+
LED
-
|
Gnd

Hey Guys all i need to know is where to connect the 2 "legs" on the LED to. So the LED goes on the the effect is on and the LED goes off when it is off..

Thanks

~Dan

Im useing a DPDT switch, is it any different?

[rikkards]

In that case, assuming you don't want tone sucking you want to do the Millenium circuit to use an LED as an indicator. Basically whenever you look at an effects circuit they all have two things in common; an input and an output. The millenium hangs off of the output.

If you don't care about the tone suckage, you could hook up the led to the second pole and use that for lighting it up but what is the challenge (or the learning experience) in that?

Im useing a DPDT switch, is it any different?

[darron]

this covers the how's and why's:
www.dazatronyx.com/support/true-bypass-technique.pdf


but it's for TRUE bypass, so it won't help you out with adding an LED and only using a DPDT switch.
still, give it a read as it's got some helpful diagrams which answer your question on switching at the beginning and the end - i think.

[drewl]

What do you call the one with one transistor by Joe Davisson?

I've been liking that one  lately.

[rikkards]

DOH!
Forgot the stupid resistor. I meant to add that in   

Which would be a good way to produce the magic smoke...  You're going to need a current limiting resistor on one side of the LED or the other, like this:

+9v
|
/
\
/
|
+
LED
-
|
Gnd


3K3 to 10K will work, depending on your LED and how bright you want it.