Repairing my Whammy pedal

[seibertdr]

I have a Digitech Whammy pedal that I bought off of eBay. It was in pretty good shape but since there are times when it is not connecting properly. I am going to take a look at it myself. Is there anything I need to be aware before I open it up.

Thanks,

Don

[seibertdr]

I found the manual and saw that it was safe to open. I doscovered that th input jack is very loose. There look like three tines that holds the guitar cord in and two are bent up. Does anyone know what type of input jack I need to replace it with. It is black plastic with six legs and two plastic legs to hold it in place.

Thank you,

Don

[Processaurus]

Whatever you do don't take the rocker pedal off, it'll waste the afternoon getting the stupid thing back on.  Sorry, I don't know where to get those type of jacks, but they're common.  Actually, can you bend the contacts back down so they work?  All's fair in love and repair

[newfish]

Any chance of a photo of the offending jack socket?

Jacks with 6 connectors are easy enough to find (Stereo switching type, I believe).

Two extra legs to hold it in place has got me thinking what it looks like.

As far as I know, an 'ordinary' 6-legged socket will be fine - since the socket will be held in place by the solder on the 6 pins.

...would also be interesting to see what a Whammy Pedal looks like in the altogether...

[seibertdr]

Any chance of a photo of the offending jack socket?

Jacks with 6 connectors are easy enough to find (Stereo switching type, I believe).

Two extra legs to hold it in place has got me thinking what it looks like.

As far as I know, an 'ordinary' 6-legged socket will be fine - since the socket will be held in place by the solder on the 6 pins.

...would also be interesting to see what a Whammy Pedal looks like in the altogether...

I will take some pictures tonight of the circuit board and parts. I was thinking of desolding the "Dry Out" jack and moving it to the input jack. do I need to have the "Dry Out" on the board for it to function properly or can I leave it off all together?

[newfish]

I'd leave the 'Dry Out' where it is - since it's not broken (and doesn't need fixing!).

PM me if you're stuck for a 6-pin switching jack...

[Gus]

http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/204_256671/M-Line_productlist.aspx

Does it look like one of the pictures?

[seibertdr]

http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/204_256671/M-Line_productlist.aspx

Does it look like one of the pictures?

Very much like those but more square. I am sure they all work the same way. I will post a picture tonight of the boards and connectors.

[Gus]

I have done a TEMPORARY repair for jacks made like that.    If you are careful you can unsolder it and push the metal out of the plastic and bend the metal to press down and reinstall the jack.  The best thing to do is check places  for a replacement jack.

http://www.cliffusa.com/jack-sockets.asp

[seibertdr]

I have done a TEMPORARY repair for jacks made like that.    If you are careful you can unsolder it and push the metal out of the plastic and bend the metal to press down and reinstall the jack.  The best thing to do is check places  for a replacement jack.

http://www.cliffusa.com/jack-sockets.asp

That is what I figured. I'll do the TEMP fix tonight since I have rehersal tomorrow night. I do have some jacks on order that should work here. Do I need to put the other jack for the pedal to function properly. Thank you.

[seibertdr]

I fixed the input jack last night and it worked. There is still a problem with this pedal as there is very little volume. Considering what this pedal does, I am going to leave it out of my pedal board. Taking the pedal apart was a bit of a bear. There are 5 hex screws on the top. DO NOT TAKE THE TREADLE OFF. The whole top part is one piece. When taking off the top piece, slide it to the left first, otherwise you will break off the midi connector and input jack. I almost did that. Lift the right side out then the whole top comes right off. There are 4 screws that hold the PCB to the top and and a jumper from the PCB to the footswitch. The last thing is the selector switch that is held on with a hex nut. This is a Whammy 4 so about 70% of it is SMB. Not much to work with. This is beyond my scope so I am going to send it to Digitech to have them bring it back to factory specs. The quoted me $45. I will post the pics tonight.

Thanks for all your help.

Don