My Cornish Style Board, WIP. (pics inside)

Started by sjaltenb, September 01, 2008, 05:05:20 AM

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sjaltenb

Hey yall. Thought I would post some pictures of my board. It is modeled after David Gilmours Pete Cornish Board. This is the 2nd version of my project, this one is going much better than the last. I should be done in another month or so.

Power: AC Power entry modules feeds 5 transformers. Two are for the tube drivers, one is for the mistress, and there are two 9v for the FX and LEDS (kept completely seperate). They are Cincon units and are SILENT. There are 4 external 9v jacks on the back for external FX

Connections: Every wire (except pots) is shielded and will be grounded as well. All jacks are shielded. Each AC connection is crimped, soldered, heat shrunk and wire tied. All wire terminations are heat shrunk.

Dimensions: 36" W, 25" deep, about 8 inches tall in the back. I just weighed it for the first time, without the back, and its about 20 lbs. I figure it'll end up around 30 once its done.

LEDS: Each panel is illuminated with one or two blue LEDs for backlighting. The indicator LEDs are RED and one appears above the stomp switch and on the appropriate panel.

Fans: Two AC fans will be installed incase of heat problems (not really necessary but cool) They have an on/off switch too.

Switching: The signal is true bypassed however there will be IC buffers placed strategically where needed. They will not be overused.

Shielding: The entire box is painted with a special EMF shielding copper paint. The power entry module also has an EMF filter.

Signal is as follows and is a marriage between Gilmour's Animals/Wall era the the PULSE Rig

Input (A/B toggle)-->
Split to Signal Chain, Tuner and Talk box Out

Colorsound Power Boost-->
Skreddy Lunar Module-->
Compression (CS2/Dynacomp toggle)-->
S/R for Wah
S/R for Whammy
Vintage Tube Driver (clean boost)-->
Distortion On/Off-->
Distortion Select (Select between: BYOC Triange Muff (w/EQ) and RAT2. There is also a switch on the RAT panel to select an external S/R for a different Distortion in place of RAT..also with dedicated EQ)-->
Vintage Tube Driver 2 (Overdrive)-->
Univibe/Phase 90-->
Howard Davis Modded Deluxe Electric Mistress-->
Boss CE2-->
Boss TR2-->
EQ (w/ on/off stomp switch)
Final EQ (on/off toggle)
Volume S/R

From here, the signal is then split again 3 ways. The analog signal goes directly out to a mixer, then the signal goes to delay switch 1 and 2 (if selected). The delays (Ibanez DE7 and TC Electronics DTwo) are set to a full wet mix, and their outputs are sent to a mixer. The main signal is then blended with the repeats in parallel. this way, just like gilmour, the analog signal never travels through the digital delays.

A leslie simulator completes the chain.

The board, so far, has proven to be pretty damn quiet. I have had issues here and there, but once they are resolved, its great. I am very excited about completing this project, as it has been a long time in the making.

Pictures:













Questions, criticism, whatever, lets hear it. If you think that the basic cornish style is ugly, then please, you dont have to let it be known. I think i have done a damn good job so far. Yes i know that its not nearly as advanced. Yes i know that he does not use true bypass. I have tested many methods and it seems to work damn good for me. Am I pete Cornish? hell no...im a gilmour nut who likes to build things. anyway, enjoy, i will keep it posted, and i'll keep this page for my problems/questions etc. Some constructive suggestions would be great. thanks!


Auke Haarsma

....what...can...I...say...

Very impressive board! Lots of options, well thought out. Looking very good!

Any chance you can share the dimensions and weight of the board?

sjaltenb

thanks!!! i'd say there is well over a years worth of planning. this board is all about options, options options. They are there.

I just updated the specs with the dimensions.

Auke Haarsma

I also use a seperate powersupply for the LED's. Lots of LED's to be fed ;)

Do you have a brightness control? I plan to have a simple pot to control the voltage to the LED's. That way I can turn the brightness up of the LED's in a well lit room, and turn it down again if I'm using the board in a low lit room.

Quote from: sjaltenb on September 01, 2008, 05:05:20 AM
Dimensions: 36" W, 25" deep, about 8 inches tall in the back. I just weighed it for the first time, without the back, and its about 20 lbs. I figure it'll end up around 30 once its done.
Thanks for adding these. In metrics that is roughly 91 X 64 x 20 Cm, 10Kg now, 15Kg when finished.

That's a BIG board ;)

You are using way thicker wood than I am using. Do you feel comfortable (/y numb....) stomping the switches?

sjaltenb

#4
yeah i thought about using a pot to control the voltage for the LEDs, and I still may do it. It is big yes, but think about how big a board containing all those pedals would be. roughly the same size and weight...eh who cares. My tiny little peavy classic 30 weighs a lot more i know that!!

and yes, i can stomp all over it no problems.

Ben N

  • SUPPORTER

asfastasdark

In picture #6: What are those switches and jacks for and where are they located? A damn awesome 'board, by the way!  ;D

sjaltenb

thats the back panel

It has the following:

Main out
tuner out
talk box out

Distortion Send/Return with bypass
4x 9v External power plugs
Stereo S/R w/ Bypass for the following :Delay 1, delay2, rotary sim, wah (with switch to reverse the signal for "echoes") and whammy
input A and B


sjaltenb

#8
i thought i might update this thread.... i have a few pics but not many.

I had to back "pedal" with the power supplies. I am now going to use a large custom transformer with many windings into about a dozen highly filtered and regulated custom power supplies. The only pedals that still require AC are the two Tube Drivers.

Also, I think I am going to take out all the 3PDTs and use a Millenium2 bypass circuit instead, this will make switching the two indicators per effect a lot easier.

Other than that, I have accomplished a LOT. So far the following FX are gutted, modded, placed on the panel and wired for signal, power and ground:

Tube driver 1 and 2
MicroVibe
Phase 90
TR2 tremolo
CE2 chorus
Skreddy Lunar module Fuzz
Colorsound PowerBoost clone
BYOC Triangle Big Muff clone
electric mistress
buffer

Wiating on parts to complete:
RAT, CS2, Dynacomp, 3x GE7 Eqs

the power transformer is currently being built and has 14 windings:

8x 12vac @100ma (individual FX)
3x 12vac @200ma (one tube driver/3xEQs/Vibe-phase-trem)
1x 12vac @1a (external power jacks)
1x 15vac @100ma (mistress)
1x 24vac @200ma with Center Tap (tube driver)



Guts!

Auke Haarsma

good to see an update!

One thing I didn't know a couple of hours ago when I send you the PM, my mil2bypasses are giving some issues. I've had quite some issues during the first design/test phase like over a year ago. The BS170's died too fast. Now I took my stash of 'ready' footswitches and it appears the issues have returned. Tested 5 now, 2 are dead. Further investigation required, no need to panic  :icon_mrgreen: but I though it'd be good to let you know.

noelgrassy

That build is monumental! You should be hella proud to have gotten this far. Do you have some cool shock mounts for the tubes like Pete likes to use? By the way, does anyone know what the core switch is that Pete builds those wooden doughnuts for? They must be pretty formidable on their own. (and pretty honkin' big too!).

Besides the costs for the actual FX, what's this puppy going to cost? Less your labor of course. I'd guess $1K~$2K USD.

Just to help signify that you've arrived, I'd offer to roadie for your first gig, FREE! But I'm getting too old and feeble to even pick out the Brown M&M's let alone tote that behemouth up a flight of stairs.

Best of luck with your fabrication & wiring chores still ahead. All your pre-planning seems to have been worth every minute of it. Keep us posted on your developments,

NG
"Of the demonstrably wise there are but two: those who commit suicide, and those who keep their reasoning faculties atrophied by drink." Mark TwGL

sjaltenb

#11
Hello,

I have made much progress! While a lot has changed, a lot has also been done. Almost every effect is ready to be wired, and the switching and power system is in the final design stages. I went back to 3PDTs. I just added the fans, they are more for Mojo than anything, but will also provide nice airflow across the 17 some PSU regulators, which will be on two large PCBs stacked on each other on the back panel.
The backlighting and indicator LEDs will be powered by two individual LM317 adjustable PSUs with dimmer knobs. The plates still need to be cut to cover the bottom of each panel.









Here are some pictures, and the final signal flow is as follows: Buffers will be added where/if needed after everything else is done.

Input A/B
Buffered Split to Tuner and signal chain
Colorsound Power Boost
Skreddy Lunar Module
Compression CS2/Dynacomp with A/B/A->B 3way rotary
S/R for Wah
S/R for Whammy
Vintage Tube Driver (clean boost)
Distortion On/Off
Distortion Select between BYOC Triangle Big Muff and GGG RAT2. each has dedicated GE-7. RAT can also be toggled to external S/R for external drive pedal.
Vintage Tube Driver 2 (Overdrive)
Voodoo Lab MicroVibe/BYOC Phase 90 (toggle)
Howard Davis Modded Deluxe Electric Mistress and LPB1
Boss CE2
GE-7
S/R 1 for Rotosphere with line level adjustment by Adjusticator
S/R for Volume Pedal

The signal is again split 4 ways: The delays all have the dry signal removed, and are set to 100% wet to allow the mixer to control the repeat volume. The dry signal will also have a toggle to allow for the removal of the dry signal altogether to check repeats (ala David's real board)
1) Dry signal
2) To PT-80 delay
3) To Delay S/R1 w/ adjusticator (T.C. D-two rack delay)
4) To Delay S/R2 w/ adjusticator

The 3 delays will then be mixed back together in parallel with a GGG MiniMixer and that final signal is buffered and split to output 1 and 2.


More to come soon!!! a big thanks to everyone who has helped and put up with my questions along the way!!! It is very much appreciated!!!!!!

mth5044


hday

Looks great! Maybe I'll finally add CPU fans to my board.

Ever thought about putting some of those enclosures up for sale to help pay for this project?  :icon_lol:

Auke Haarsma

looking really good!

Any estimate on how much time you need to 'finish' it?

sjaltenb

if i had all the parts I could do it in a weekends time. I just dont have all the parts  ;)

how is yours coming???

designing the pcbs for the power supplies and adjusticators and 3pdts has been the worst part because i had to learn how to use eagle. im getting there though, its just a slow process. i imagine realistically that it will be up and running in a few more months time  :icon_rolleyes:

its really hard when you dont have an electronics shop in your town, everyhting has to come from online, every resistor.

Auke Haarsma

Ah, that's why I make sure I order a value-pack of common components now and then. That way I rarely run out of basic parts. Most of my stuff comes from online shops as well.

I've had a busy two months with a holiday in Egypt and, most of the time, busy with moving to my new house. Yesterday I 'finished' the DIY-room, so I think I can get back to DIY-ing pretty soon ;)

iaresee

This thing is AWESOME! And this picture really cracked me up:

Quote from: sjaltenb on September 01, 2008, 05:05:20 AM


Mostly because my wife would put a very permanent end to me and and DIY work if I ever did any painting on the stove like that!  :icon_lol:

JFX09

Happiness is a effin' hot soldering iron

Zedmin_fx

#19
cool to see my work in some thing like this. looking gr8 m8