Rebote Delay 2.5 build

Started by StereoKills, January 20, 2009, 11:56:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

StereoKills

I'm in the process of building the 2.5 version of the Rebote circuit on perfboard per Matt Rabe's layout on DIY Fever (http://www.storm-software.co.yu/diy/index.php?project=layouts), but I came across something I can't get to agree with the schematic on tonepad (http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=98). On Matt's layout, C15(.1uF) and C20(.01uF) are both run from Vout from the voltage regulator (+5vDC) to ground. In the schematic I can only find the .1uF cap and not the .01uF cap between +5vDC and pin 1 of PT2399. I may just be blind since it's getting late, but I don't think it's in the original schematic.

"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

jefe

I can't view the perf verision right now, but I would say if you can't find it on the original circuit, it shouldn't be there (well, duh).

I'm curious to see what the perfboard version looks like. I perfed the rebote 2.0 straight from the PCB layout, so I'm not quite understanding why there would be a perfboard version.

StereoKills

Here's the image rendering from the program. Unfortunately it cuts off some of the BOM at the bottom. The whole section running under Q1 - the voltage regulator is confusing me, I'm not sure if all of the lines connect under there, or if several of them are separate. I too was going to perf it from the PCB layout at first, but the dimensions of this layout were a little more convenient for my enclosure.

"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

oldrocker

#3
Yes there is an error on Matt's layout.  I drew a red line showing how R16, C21 and C20 are actually connected per schematic.  The lines you can see under the voltage reg are not right so ignore them. For the rest just follow the schem at tonepad.



My sloppy finishied perfboard.


StereoKills

Ok, That makes more sense. If I'm right, then the +9vDC leg of Q1 connects in two ways, to R12 and C17 in one direction and to pin 8 of the TL032 in the other?
"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

oldrocker

Sounds like you have it all figured out.  Good luck with your build.

Zedmin_fx


StereoKills

"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

StereoKills

After many months of sitting on the shelf waiting for me to finish it, I wired everything up tonight. I have to say it is a great sounding delay pedal!

I just have one issue that I need to deal with. I'm using the millennium 2 circuit with a DPDT switch for the bypass and I get a nasty POP! when I switch on/off. The LED also stays on regardless whether it's switched on or off. I was using a battery putting out about 7.9v (unfortunately the strongest one I had on hand tonight). I used "Offboard wiring 6" from tonepad.com.

Any help would be greatly appreciated since this is to be a birthday present in a few days and would like to get this finished soon.

Thanks!
"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

StereoKills

Anyone?

I'm not really sure how to deal with the pop when using a millennium 2 circuit. Is it similar to using a 3PDT where a capacitor and resistor are used?
"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

oldrocker

R.G. would be the best to answer millennium 2 issues.  Your millennium circuit isn't working right. It might not be attached to the Rebote correctly.  When I added the M2 to my Shocktave it performed beautifully once it was installed right.  I had a similar problem with it but I can't recall what I did wrong.  I can tell that it had to do with the way it was used and not the M2 circuit itself.  I didn't use the M2 on my Rebote though so I'm not sure how the M2 works with that specific effect. 
Check and make sure the M2 is built correctly and is installed right.  Hopefully R.G. will chime in and resolve this issue.  If not,  the circuit is simple enough to debug.  Or make another M2 and see if it acts the same.  The M2 is a sensitive circuit and can be touchy.