2: The Schematic and parts list

[aron]

Given this:



Can you tell me how many capacitors, transistors & resistors there are in this circuit? Are there any more parts you need?

[Joe Bonner]

:lol:

Here's my analysis:

Parts from schematic:
5 resistors (2x10K, 2x100K, 47K)
1 transistor (NPN)
1 5k potentiometer
1 capacitor
3 electrolytic capacitors (.1uF, 10uF, 47uF)

Other parts:
Switch (DPDT?)
jacks (one stereo, one mono)
connecting wire
enclosure
9V battery snap
perfboard

Did I miss anything?

Joe

[Chris R]

3 electrolytic capacitors (.1uF, 10uF, 47uF)

Looks like the Electrolytic's should be 10uF, 22uF, and 47uF.

The .1uF cap is non polarized.

C

[Andy]

1 9V Battery

Resistors
----------
100K - 2
47K
10K - 2
5K pot (linear)

Caps
------
47 uF
.1uF
10uF
22uF

Transistor
-----------
NPN (2N3904?)

[Gus]

The schematic looks nice.  It looks like it might help people that have problems with my hand drawn ones.  Also you can build it with pnps reverse the caps and PS like with FF circuits.

Gus

[aron]

Very good!

One .1uF (Film if possible)
Three Electrolytics 10uF, 22uF and 47uF
Two 10K resistors
One 47K resistor
Two 100K resistors
One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222 etc....
One 5K linear pot.

Yes, you need a stereo input jack, mono output jack, perfboard, box and switch. In addition, either a transistor socket or DIP8 IC socket (easily found).

The box and switch can be omitted for our project since you can run this circuit right off of the perfboard and jacks if you want.

You also need 4 pieces of hookup wire and a battery snap.

[aron]

how you might "wire" i.e. connect the components using the most minimum amount of hookup wire?

Do you see that one of the electrolytic capacitors can be mounted right on top of another device?

[stratking]

how you might "wire" i.e. connect the components using the most minimum amount of hookup wire?

Do you see that one of the electrolytic capacitors can be mounted right on top of another device?

The only possibility I see for doing this would be to somehow connect the 0.1uF cap straight to the input jack.  Is that correct?

stratking

[aron]

I was thinking that the 47uF can be mounted directly on the pot lugs.

As for the rest of the components on the perfboard, you use their leads to connect them together.

Yes, there's even a use for the 300 extra resistors of "wrong" values you may have bought. You can use them for their leads!

[aron]

OK, let's "clean up" the schematic a little more.

Remember those ground points? They all connect together so:

[aron]

Here's a film cap:



an electrolytic capacitor:



a resistor:



a transistor:



8 pin DIP socket:




a potentiometer (front, then back)




a stereo Jack:



a mono jack:



wire:



Finally, the collection of components:

[stratking]

I was thinking that the 47uF can be mounted directly on the pot lugs.

As for the rest of the components on the perfboard, you use their leads to connect them together.

Yes, there's even a use for the 300 extra resistors of "wrong" values you may have bought. You can use them for their leads!

That makes a lot more sense, thats what I get for looking at the schem. when I'm busy.

stratking

[Cliff]

Aron - First off, I want to express my gratitude for the time and effort you are putting in this project.  This is very cool.  Your willingness to share your knowledge is pretty amazing.  Of course, I'm just buttering you up for the first time I ask a dumb ass question.

As I intend to build this boost and then use it, it would be beneficial to me to have a 9 vdc Boss type input so that I can run it off a power supply rather than battery.  What do you think about including that in the schematic?  Anyone else?

[aron]

We can do that, but there's a really easy way to add a DC jack. Simply add another battery snap in the box to the DC jack. Yep, that simple. We can also investigate putting in a protection diode.

[Mike Nichting]

I would love to learn about adding DC jacks and especially the protection doide~!!
 BTW- i don't understand what you meant about the extra battery snap for the DC jack?? Can you explain that a little more in depth so it can reach my little brain :-)

Also, I would like to have switches explained to me in a very thouroguh way. How they work, how they switch and where they switch and why they are hooked up like they are. The difference between the DPDT and 3PDT switches and how to use the extra poles.

I didn't mean to take away from the schematic building. I will keep an eye out for those topics :-)
thanks
Mike N.

[BD13UK]

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/v2/diagrams/pjsnap.gif
I think Aron may be refering to the above method, mind you I'm only guessing at this.

[Cliff]

Aron - I'm probably being ignorant, but I kind of expected the next step to be the development of a layout based upon your schematic.  Is this something you usually do before building?  I'm guessing that this circuit is so basic that you're skipping this step.

Second question:  On the parts list you indicated that we should purchase: "One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222..."  My question is this: Which one?  Aren't these different?  Wouldn't a different transistor have a different affect upon the function of the box?

Me lame....I haven't made a parts order yet, so I can't participate on Sunday, but I'll be watching....

[aron]

Aron - I'm probably being ignorant, but I kind of expected the next step to be the development of a layout based upon your schematic.  Is this something you usually do before building?  I'm guessing that this circuit is so basic that you're skipping this step.

Nope, a layout is coming.

I draw a layout on my sketch tablet and then follow that when building onto perfboard.

Code:

"One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222..."  My question is this: Which one?  Aren't these different?  Wouldn't a different transistor have a different affect upon the function of the box?

There will be slight differences mainly when turning the pedal all the way up. Basically you can use any of these small signal transistors NPN no problem. Gus designed the circuit so it's not dependent on the transistor make.

Me lame....I haven't made a parts order yet, so I can't participate on Sunday, but I'll be watching....

Don't worry, the whole idea is really to have it online for reference.

Thanks for the good questions!

[aron]

What I usually do is sketch the schematic and a simple layout in my artist sketch book.

Like this:



Then I build right on top of the paper.

This way I can reference the schematic (which is right underneath) on the book.

This way I can jot down notes etc... right on the book.

I list 3 different ways of placing the components on the perfboard:

1: easiest
2: same except for the slightly tricky "jump" over the input wire.
3: minimal space layout. I usually do it this way with the components sticking up vertically off the board.

I like to put a sketch of the transistor and the pinout on the paper so I don't have to look for the datasheet.

BTW: the layouts I draw are as if you could see through the board - through the bottom.

re:

How to handwire on perfboard

[Cliff]

Aron - I don't know why I didn't flash on this before, but how come no stomp switch and led?  Would these be easy to add to the schematic and layout?

Also, which box are you using to house this project?

Thanks much.