If you don't know exactly what you're doing, definitely enlist the help of someone who does. That's what I'm tryin' to do right now, man.
This is not good enough. You *cannot* learn enough to do this safely from this forum. The wink indicates you're not taking this seriously enough.
What follows is a partial, incomplete list of some things I'd worry about. It is possible to do all of this and still get electrocuted, or burned up in a fire, or cause your loved ones or strangers to be killed or hurt either immediately or long in the future if you do some detail wrong. What you're needing to do is to build the stuff so it complies with UL60650 or IEC60650 standards, which is itself a many-page standard. Following the stuff below will not get you there. It's just an introduction - a warning about what you're getting into.
The three AC power wires are Line (L), Neutral (N) and Ground. They are marked as L, N and the triangle ground symbol on the IEC inlet. If you use a standard IEC cord, the voltages on the back of the IEC inlet will appear that way.
Apparently the power supply you were sent makes a distinction between the line and neutral connections; I would guess that ACL connects to Line, and ACN connects to neutral, but you should be able to get that clarified by the guy who sent you the supplies.
1. Enclosures. For safety's sake, all of the connections to the IEC outlet and to the the power supply must be made inside an all-metal enclosure that has no hole you can poke a wire through and touch a live AC connection. The minimum size of the test wire is 1mm, or 0.03937". Slots, vents, and other openings must leave less than 1mm open. This does two things: it keeps fingers and other body parts out of the wiring and keeps molten or burning stuff inside if there is an electrical fire inside. Effectively, there has to be a continuous metal shell around everything with hazardous voltage wiring inside. Unless your suitcase is itself metal, this probably means the IEC and power supply have to be mounted inside a metal box inside the suitcase.
2. Grounding. The neutral (N) wire must not touch any metallic conductor that you can touch. It most especially must not touch the secondary ground of the power supply. That's because it can conduct lethal currents. But it will also make your gear hum intolerably. The third wire ground must be connected to the metal case the hazardous wiring is in. It must be connected in a manner that it will not come loose from vibration or age. Do not solder it. Solder is not reliable for mechanical connections.
I have seen ground lines connected this way: a hole is drilled through the metal casing. A screw is inserted from the outside. On the inside, a toothed lock washer is placed over the screw, then a ring terminal which is crimped to the end of the safety ground wire is placed over the screw, then another toothed lock washer placed over the ring terminal. On top of these three, a nut is tightened down onto the screw until it's firmly in place. The bottom toothed washer bites into the metal enclosure and into the ring terminal, ensuring reliable long term metal to metal contact. The upper toothed washer holds the nut in place. The ring terminal is crimped onto the wire, not soldered. Solder will cold-flow and creep under tension, crimping will not. I have seen solid copper wires of 18gauge or more used in grounding by taking a 3/4 or more turn around the grounding screw in lieu of a properly crimped ring terminal, but this obviously can't be done if you use stranded ground wire. Tinning stranded wire is not acceptable for this as the solder can cold flow. Whichever of the outputs of the power supply you will use as signal ground should be connected to third wire ground inside the metal enclosure. Every place you can touch anything metal, the metal must be grounded to the ground lug on the IEC connector. The connection must be less than (as I remember) 0.05 ohms, and must support a 25A (as I remember) current without burning out.
3. Fusing. You need to use a fuse on the line (L) side of the power wiring. It should be just large enough that the startup current of the power supply does not blow it. It should be UL/CSA/TUV... etc. rated for 250Vac and for the appropriate current. The fuse is not there to protect you, or the power supply. It's there to prevent electrical fires from starting. Well, OK, to keep them from continuing. Ideally, the IEC connector you got will have a fuse holder built in. If it does not, you must get a safety agency (UL/CSA/TUV/CE...) approved and listed fuse holder. The fuse must be in the Line (L) wire, not in the neutral line.
4. Wiring. Wires should be insulated and UL/CSA/TUV/CE... listed and so labeled on the wire insulation. Use the correct color wires for primary power wiring.It is not required, but I like to put heat shrink over the connections to AC power after I make the connections. Wiring should be done so that the wire cannot rub against sharp edges or points and wear through the insulation; also it must be restrained so that if one wire breaks , it is not possible for the broken wire to be moved to any place where it will cause an electrical hazard outside the enclosure. For instance, if the wire from the IEC "L" connection were to break on the far end from the IEC, it should not be possible for it to be stretched to contact any other wire that exits the enclosure, or for it to snake out through a hole. Switches, fuse holders, anything that has AC power wiring to it must be restrained from rotating in place so it cannot be twisted and break the internal wires by rotation, even many rotations. Wires must be large enough gauge that if they could force the fuse to blow rather than melting the insulation on the wires in a shorted (fault) condition. Soldered connections must be mechanically held in place by bending the wire itself before soldering. Crimped terminal connections must be crimped in a way that secures the terminal to the wire against any reasonable pull. There is another whole layer of these instructions on how to make a secure crimp.
5. Creepage and clearance. Your wiring and parts must ensure that a minimum distance through air (clearance) or over surfaces (creepage) between metal carrying hazardous voltages and both (a) live current carrying connectors of opposite polarity and (b) metal parts conductively connected to accessible metal parts (that's metal you can touch) is maintained. The creepage and clearance distances are determined by a table taking into account the voltages and degree of contamination likely inside the equipment by dust, dirt, humidity, etc.
6. Switching. You didn't mention a switch. If you intend to use a switch, the terminals must be inside that metal enclosure with the rest of the hazardous stuff. The fuse may break only the line (L) side or may break both line and neutral. If it only breaks one, it must be the Line (L) side. If you use a power switch, get one that's already safety agency (UL/CSA/TUV/CE...) approved and marked.
As I said, this is only a thin overview. Each of the topics has several layers underneath.
This is serious stuff, literally life and death being involved. It is possible to hurt or kill yourself or people you love even years later after you've forgotten what you did. Please - go get experienced help before you proceed.