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Solder.

Started by THOMMO, June 22, 2009, 05:11:11 AM

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THOMMO

Is there a particular type of solder that is best for this type of stuff?

The stuff I've got at the moment just seems to ball-up on the end when I hit it with the iron(25w).
Maybe the guage is too thick? If the tip of my iron was smaller would that make the stuff actually flow?

Jason.
May The Twang Be With You

mth5044

I like to use 60/40 rosin core solder, usually from radio shack. I think it's one of the thinnest they have. Your problem may be the wattage of your iron. 25w is a bit low, I think. So it's heating the solder, but not enough to get it to flow. Make sure your tip is clean and whatever you are soldering onto is clean.

It's also best the have a thin, pencil tip on the soldering iron so you can get at the pads and whatnot, but I don't know if that has a lot to do with your problem.

StereoKills

It would probably be best to get a higher wattage iron, preferably one that has a variable temperature control. You could try using flux on the leads and pads to get the solder to flow easier. When I use flux, I prefer the water soluble kind, so you can just wash it with warm water and a stiff brush after the board is complete to remove the excess.
"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

darron

regular leaded 60/40 solder is probably is the way to go for you, as mth5044 suggested. it has a lower melting point and is pretty easy to work with. gauge won't really matter. you might find it easier to use thinner stuff of around 1mm for circuit boards and thicker stuff for amps etc.

as for the balling up.... it sounds like you may just be pasting the solder on? the flux that's in the solder's core is designed to lead the solder in the direction of the hottest metal source. that will cause it to ball up on the end of your iron. if it's balling up on the circuit board (or perf joint or whatever) at the base of the component wire then it's because you didn't make the copper trace and wire hot enough to make the solder make a nice flow to it. the joint should be moved as little as possible when it solidifies. when it's solid it should be nice and shiny.

try holding the iron on the joint and heating it while pressing the solder into the other side without directly touching the solder with the tip of your iron. or for the blobbed joints assuming there isn't too much solder, just heat the join until the solder flows properly. keep the tip clean too as slag doesn't help

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Ripthorn

When I was still brand new at this, I thought there might be something wrong with my iron because it didn't seem to transfer heat well and the solder also balled up.  I have since learned that a tinned tip covereth a multitude of evils.  A tip that isn't well tinned, even on an awesome iron, will create all kinds of problems, whereas a well tinned tip on a cheap iron can work quite well.
Exact science is not an exact science - Nikola Tesla in The Prestige
https://scientificguitarist.wixsite.com/home

THOMMO

Alright , guys thanks for all the input!

I'll look into all your suggestions.

Jason.
May The Twang Be With You

Top Top

I am using some really old non-rosin core solder and separate rosin with only a 10 watt iron. I was having similar problems to what you describe, but then I took out the tip of my iron, sanded around the base of it (where it is held in to the iron), and also I filed the tip of my iron to a new nice sharp point. This apparently removed a ton of oxidation and this little iron is working great now.

Papa_lazerous

Quote from: Top Top on June 24, 2009, 01:23:10 PM
I am using some really old non-rosin core solder and separate rosin with only a 10 watt iron. I was having similar problems to what you describe, but then I took out the tip of my iron, sanded around the base of it (where it is held in to the iron), and also I filed the tip of my iron to a new nice sharp point. This apparently removed a ton of oxidation and this little iron is working great now.

filing the end of your iron is a massive no no, unless you want to ruin it  :P

Top Top

Quote from: Papa_lazerous on June 24, 2009, 09:56:56 PM
Quote from: Top Top on June 24, 2009, 01:23:10 PM
I am using some really old non-rosin core solder and separate rosin with only a 10 watt iron. I was having similar problems to what you describe, but then I took out the tip of my iron, sanded around the base of it (where it is held in to the iron), and also I filed the tip of my iron to a new nice sharp point. This apparently removed a ton of oxidation and this little iron is working great now.

filing the end of your iron is a massive no no, unless you want to ruin it  :P

Why? If I file down the tip too far, I an get replacement ones. In the meantime, this $10 radio shack iron lives on and works very well.