Where can I find FLAT (little to no gloss) powdercoated 1590-BB or 1590-NS?

Started by mr.adambeck, June 30, 2009, 03:36:39 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

mr.adambeck

I can't seem to find any options for these somewhat larger sizes in non-glossy finishes.
A friend of mine is going to be hand painting an enclosure for me, and it can't be glossy if we want the paint to stick (which we obviously do  :icon_lol:)
Anyone know where I can get some 1590 BB's or NS's or something similar in a flat powdercoat?

Thanks.

Toddy

There is a manufacturer called "Hot Coat" which sells all kinds of powder coat colors for the car/motorcycle industry. I have used their stuff on my car parts and it is wonderful! You can probably check out the "Eastman's" site where I purchased my powder colors. The down side is that they usually do not sell small bottles for the little quantity that a 1590BB would require, and they are a bit pricey. I would also check out one of you local body shops to see if they would "give you" about 2 or 3 ounces. Smile at them and show them some cleavage. :icon_wink:

Good Luck,
Toddy

.Mike

PedalPartsPlus apparently sells flat powdercoated enclosures, but it seems like the colors are limited, and they're hard to find on their site.

Plug "flat" into their search field, and four results should come up.

You may want to email them for more information.

:)

Mike
If you're not doing it for yourself, it's not DIY. ;)

My effects site: Just one more build... | My website: America's Debate.

m-theory

You don't necessarily need a flat finish substrate to get a subsequent layer to adhere.  What you need is a surface that's not entirely smooth.  Whether that's the result of a flat gloss substrate that leaves an uneven surface, or you scuff a glossy substrate with an ultra fine abrasive, the result is the same either way.  You're giving the next layer of material something to "bite" into. 

If you use a typical gray scuff pad (3m makes these, and you can find them at auto parts stores and home depot-type stores), you can get a very mild scratch that will allow your fresh paint (and clear) to stick to.  You can also achieve this with something like a 1500 or even 2000g wet/dry sandpaper. 

Al Heeley

fine grade (0000) wire wool will take the gloss off a nice coating to give a matt or silk finish depending on how much you rub it.

mr.adambeck

Toddy-- I don't do my own clearcoating

Mike-- I already talked to PedalPartsPlus about this (it's actually why I ended up starting this thread), it looks like they only sell a couple colors in fat sheen.

MikeH

+1 on the steel wool.

Btw- I've hand painted glossy powder coated enclosures with testors and sharpie paint markers and the paint sticks just fine.
"Sounds like a Fab Metal to me." -DougH

hday

Steel wool sometimes leaves an uneven sand, and occasionally will leave deeper gouges in your paint. I like wetsand paper personally, I think it gives a smooth even texture.

And depending on how you're finishing your pedal, you might not need a matte powdercoat at all. If you're painting graphics over the whole pedal, there's really no difference between a matte powdercoat and a glossy powdercoat that's been sanded. They both will have a very similar grit to them. If you're going to clear coat the pedal when you're done, a sanded glossy powdercoat will look the same as a matte powdercoat.

If you're just doing small graphics and maybe a little text, with no clearcoat, I'd definitely find a matte powdercoat. That is, if you're dead set on a powdercoat. There's a lot of satisfaction in spraying and baking your own enclosure, and the results are plenty durable for pedals.

mr.adambeck

I'm not painting it myself, a friend is doing it.  You can see his work here:

He is going to be using acrylic paints.  He requested a light blue as the background (he selected Cubic Blue from Pedal Parts Plus, but I later learned that that is a glossy enclosure).  I could try just sanding the gloss off, but I just want to be absolutely 100% sure that it is going to work, since this is a big favor and something I am really excited about and want to be sure of.  Due to the way he paints, it seems like I would need something that would allow the paint to adhere very well.  At least to me, but if you guys think it would be fine, please say so, and maybe I'll change my mind!


mr.adambeck


m-theory

Cool looking art!  If it were me, I'd scuff it all w/a gray (or is that "grey?) scuffpad, let him do his thing, and then clear it with 2 part epoxy, or maybe even swing it over to a local body shop to have them throw it in the booth with their next paint work.  I used to work in that industry, and can't think of a single shop that couldn't be talked into doing something like that, in exchange for a box of donuts or something along that line.  Odds are, they'd get a kick out of it, because it's something different for them. 

R.G.

Bead blast very lightly; do the painting, then clearcoat, perhaps with satin finish clearcoat.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

davent

I tried airbrushing acrylic paint onto a powdercoated enclosure from Small Bear. Did the first colour, cured it, masked off an area with masking tape and did some further painting. Removed the masking tape and the paint under it came off in a nice thin sheet. :icon_redface:  Scraped the the rest of my paint job off with my fingernail and started over.  Next attempt started with dulling down the gloss by wet sanding and then proceeded as before. This time the acrylic paint stayed put when i peeled off the masking tape and has survived fine a year or so under protective clearcoat.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg