I've never once had any luck with baking. I tried it a few times, had catastrophic failures that resulted complete stripping, and never went back to it. It's pretty unnecessary anyway, imo. I marvel at those who swear by it, but it just flat out did not work for me in any way, shape, or form, so I found ways to do this fairly quickly without that. That said, however, I will add that, in every single instance in which I've had a failure of one sort or another, it's been essentially because I've gotten ahead of myself, and have tried to rush something along. If you take nothing away from what else I say here, hold onto that thought. You can NOT rush paint work and expect excellent results.
As for paint products, this is one of the very few areas of discussion on this board in which I happen to be able to speak with great confidence, based upon a previous life in which I was a paint specialist in the auto refinish market. There are a lot of misconceptions and confusion about paint in general, and I think I can help brush away some of that without getting too deeply into boring minutia. Bear with me...this will almost certainly venture into tedious territory at some point...
First is a real nit-picky thing, but I see it a lot...non-catalyzed paints, which is any paint that has no hardening agent added to it, such as our beloved spray bombs, does NOT "cure." "Cure" is the term given to the completion of the chemical reaction that occurs when an isocyanate hardener combines with the resins in a given paint formula (by that, I mean chemical composition, not color!) to literally create a molecular change with what was once a liquid product comprising of pigments, resins, and solvents into something not much unlike a hard plastic.
What our paint does is "dry." That refers to the evaporating of solvents in the product, to leave behind nothing but pigment and a hard version of the liquid resin that the product was built from. Because our paints don't involve chemical hardeners, they can ALWAYS be "rewet," meaning that, in 100 years, you could soak a rag with thinner, lay it on your painted surface, and liquify that paint. Want an easy way to strip a failed application? Lacquer thinner on a rag.
When we see a failure with these applications, it's USUALLY related to our hitting a previously coated substrate with another application of something, when that substrate is still "soft" underneath, and therefore susceptible to attack from fresh solvent. This usually appears as wrinkling or "lifting," and the only way to really avoid it is to either recoat within and hour, or wait beyond the stated period on the can, often 7 days, for the vast majority of the solvents in the substrate to evaporate.
For all of the talk about paint compatability, and there is something to be said for that, the fact is, as long as you're not pounding materials onto a substrate that's lying within that period after 1 hour and before the recommended recoat period of days, you can spray whatever over whatever. I've never had a problem spraying lacquers over enamels or visa versa, as long as I'm not doing it when the substrate is vulnerable. I wouldn't use that general rule of thumb in spraying cars, mind you, but we're not talking about cars here. I also wouldn't spray a car with any non-catalyzed product, except self-etch or wash primer on the bare metal. Every other layer should be catalyzed, for maximum adhesion and durability.
Here's a quick run-down on the three basic types of materials we encounter in spray bomb form, FWIW:
Lacquers - first developed long, long ago, as nitrocellulose material. Not at all durable, generally dries VERY quickly and dull, and has to be buffed to shine. Highly susceptible to solvent attack, as well as attacks from the elements, such as ultraviolet, gasoline, oil, farm chemicals, etc.
Synthetic enamels (sometimes called "alkyd enamel") - This is pretty much all that Rustoleum has, as far as I know, although someone recently told me of a new line that they have that's claimed to be "fast drying." One of the traits of this type of product is VERY slow dry times. This stuff is VERY sticky, and stays wet for a LONG time. At paint schools, it's often the product that produces the most impressive panels when students spray out, because it's very easy to get a terrific looking finish from it, because it flows out for so long, and tends to dry very smooth and glass-like. This stuff is great for farm tractors and plows, because it's so darn sticky that you don't have to be real painstaking about the prep work. Just wash the grease off and spray this crap on, and the ol' Massey is good for 2-3 years or so. With a hardening agent, 5 years, probably.
Acrylic enamels - came about in the 60's, and were much favored over synthetics for the automotive market, because the dry time was significantly less. The durability isn't that much different, although the slight edge would go to acrylic. The real advantage was the dry time. With significantly reduced dry times, an artist could mask off sections of a vehicle and paint multiple colors, for dramatic custom looks. Nowadays, of course, basecoat/clearcoat systems make a mockery of those old school acrylic enamel dry times, but we don't deal in that world on these little boxes.
The differences between these types of paint aren't due to anything more than brand name and solvent/resin recipie. That's it. The pigments are exactly the same, from one company to another, and from one paint type to another. They ALL buy pigments from the same sources, for all of their paint lines. The only exclusion is that some that contain lead are no longer allowed in all states, and even then, not in all paint systems. What makes a lacquer a lacquer and an enamel an enamel is the type of resin and solvent used, and what makes one brand A and another brand B is nothing more than each companies specific recipie for those solvents and resins.
For the sake of general knowledge, the most durable finish available today, in terms of "paint," would be a system that involves acid etching bare metal, either with what's called a "wash primer" or a "self-etching primer," following that with a catalyzed primer-surfacer, following that with a catalyzed primer-sealer, following that with a catalyzed base color coat, and finally, a catalyzed acrylic urethane clearcoat. That's as good as it gets. Again, it's not bullet-proof. There's no such thing. But, in terms of durability in the real world, the above-described "system" (and, it IS a system) is as close as you can get to it when applying colors.
There. Now you know more than you probably ever cared to about refinish products, but hopefully there's some tidbits there that you can put to use that will assist you in producing quality finishes on these boxes.