What I used to do "in the old days" was photocopy the pattern (from the magazine article or wherever), tape it to the copper board, drill the holes, and buff the board after drilling. Then, I would proceed to put the rub-on transfers for all DIP chips and transistors, and rub on the "doughnuts" for component pads. Then, I would sit down with my fine-tip Staedtler Lumocolor pen and "connect the dots". My usual practice was to use two colours, often red or blue and black. That way I could tell the difference between the first and second "coat" of drawn-on lines. Keep in mind the resist that prevents eteching is not the pigments in the pen, but the fluid they come in. So the first red or blue or green coat might not seem very dark,but there was enough of the "ink" flowing to lay down a coat that could resist etchant. The second coat was simply my insurance policy.
I still have many of those boards, and while they weren't as beautiful as PnP, nor as quick to produce, they still hold up well. Naturally, with all that manual labour involved, keeping my grimy stinking fingers off the board was an ongoing challenge, I found that the onion skin paper that usually came with rub-on transfers provided a useful surface to put on top of the board so I could hold it in place with my hand without leaving "finger juice" behind that might impede etching.