help me with mrx dist+ asap

[chrisys32]

ok. i want to build one and i use the schematic from selected ones, with green OK! sign. so, i understand all except this:
WT* does that arrow with V+ name mean?? i mean on one at the 2.2K resistor and one that is in up right part of schematic.
what do i do with this? where do i connect it? i dont understand that V+.
and also, do i really need to connect the input and output on chassis or i can solder that pin to copper ground area on PCB?
please, help me with this because i need to build this pedal asap. lets just say that it is a kind of a time bet.

edit:

here is one that i am talking about.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/MXRDIST2.GIF

[frequencycentral]

That's the + terminal of the 9 volt battery. Connect the V+ points together.

You need the input and output sockets connected to the same ground as the circuit.

[chrisys32]

so, i just connect them together with wire (or copper lead)? well ok... thanks a lot 

[chrisys32]

ok. one more question. where do all the grounds go? to the empty zero volt copper area or to the minus side of battery?

[frequencycentral]

ok. one more question. where do all the grounds go? to the empty zero volt copper area or to the minus side of battery?

Correct, to the minus side of battery. 

[R.G.]

ok. one more question. where do all the grounds go? to the empty zero volt copper area or to the minus side of battery?

I'm not sure what you mean by "the empty zero volt copper area". The grounds must all connect together or you'll get horrible hum problems or no operation at all. There are two ground symbols on that drawing. One is the down-triangle filled with horizontal lines and the other is a horizontal bar with diagonal lines under it. The horizontal-bar/diagonals symbol is only used on the input and output jack to indicate that they connect to the overall metal enclosure to ground it for shielding. The others are all the down-triangle/horizontal bars ones, and this indicates signal ground.

All of the signal ground connections should be connected together with soldered wire connections on the circuit board. There should be a wire from the circuit board ground network to the chassis-ground connection of the input jack, and another to the chassis ground connection of the output jack. Some people rely on the metal enclosure to connect these two jack grounds together, but this is problematical if you have paint under the connection or if the nut on the bushing gets loose.

The minus of the battery must NOT be connected to ground if you followed that schematic. It connects only to the ring contact of the input jack. This way, when you insert a mono guitar plug into the stereo jack (only stereo jacks have both tip and ring as well as the grounded sleeve contacts) then the plug shorts the ring contact to the sleeve and therefore connects the battery minus to ground, powering the circuit.

[chrisys32]

ok, so. if i understood R.G.'s instructions well, i need to connect ALL the triangle grounds with one copper line on pcb or with some wires and then connect that to the both input and output jack ground pin and those two jacks should be grounded on, let's say, the metal pedal's housing. and then the electricity will go from battery + through all elements on board, go through grounds and come to the ring pin of input jack and back in the battery -. i know it sounds litle bit complicated but that is basicly it, right?

[geertjacobs]

Some nice reading to get some background:

http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/SchematicToReality/
http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_FAQ

[Mark Hammer]

And after making and using that pedal, as well as helping people optimize theirs, for over 30 years (about 15 of which seem to have been spent on this forum), I will urge you to use a 50k-100k volume pot, and NOT the 10k shown in the schematic.  This will give you a substantial increase in maximum output volume.  With a 10k pot, the pedal is barely above bypass volume when the drive and volume controls are maxed.  There are all sorts of modifications to the tone which can be done, but the place to start is to make the pedal loud enough to be useful at more than one distortion setting.

Tne Distortion+ is a nice simple design that provides an excellent laboratory/platform for learning things.   There are a LOT of threads on this forum which describe a great many very useful modifications to the circuit to get more of this or that out of it.  You will learn a lot by reading them.

[Gus]

Mark

Have you looked at this?

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/gus/plus.GIF.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

I added one dual fet input opamp.  Input buffer stage has a variable high pass filter after it and before the Dist +(or what every circuit like that you want that will work with this set up).  The output stage is set as a clean gain of X2 this allows the use of a 10K volume pot and some clean gain for Ge diode clipping.  One can adjust the gain up if needed and adjust the input resistance and other things.

[chrisys32]

OK, guys. thanks a lot! i can't wait until i get rid of this strong nasty cold. i had a bad fever yesterday, 39,5 deg.C. when i get healthy, nobody won't stop me from building this pedal. i really like the sound of it, and i like to give myself challenges like, "oh, i like this thing. hey, why would i buy it if it can be built?" so, when i make it, I'll make new topic with some pictures and maybe a video of it. so, all grounds together on the input socket and input to chassis and to minus battery side, and no 10k pot.

[chrisys32]

o, and, i meant mxr, not mrx as i wrote in topic title. sorry 

[Mark Hammer]

Mark

Have you looked at this?

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/gus/plus.GIF.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

I added one dual fet input opamp.  Input buffer stage has a variable high pass filter after it and before the Dist +(or what every circuit like that you want that will work with this set up).  The output stage is set as a clean gain of X2 this allows the use of a 10K volume pot and some clean gain for Ge diode clipping.  One can adjust the gain up if needed and adjust the input resistance and other things.

Smart additions that make the use of germanium diodes feasible and able to coexist with hefty output.  My own preference would be to use every feedback loop available to filter out the unpleasant fizzies.

[chrisys32]

Ok, guys. I need some more help with dist+. How do i connect the 9v battery holder and ac power input in circuit so i can use battery when pedal is not on the ac power AND the battery does not charge when i plug the adaptor in pedal. and of course, pedal needs to work on adaptor when it is plugged in, without using or charging battery. I dont want to blow up my pedal. And one more. I want to use the red led indicator on pedal and my question is: is it better/easier to use dpdt or 3pdt footswitch? Please, answear asap. Thanks in forwards!

[awdman]

I could explain it but here are some good illustrations of what you need to do. http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/

As far as the LED if it is to show power just wire the led to power and the switch and the LED ground to ground use a DPDT switch.

Anthony