Foxx Tone Machine to Ultimate Octave?

Started by projectx102, November 30, 2009, 04:44:26 PM

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projectx102

Does anone have a layout or schem of an Ultimate Octave? I want to mod my DIY Tone Machine to UO specs.Thanks!


projectx102



aziltz


gigimarga

Quote from: aziltz on December 02, 2009, 06:38:42 PM
can we post it somewhere?

Here it is (the link is taken from another site): http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa115/jimi_026/Ultoct.gif

Are C8 and C9 (and the other electrolytics) in the right direction?
I saw that they are in an opposite direction as they are in the Foxx Tone Machine...

projectx102

Mine started out as a GGG FTM so I just made the changes in the UO schematic posted and it worked out great.

El Heisenberg

I had a thread here where i managed to get the schem. I have it saved. Its a few simple cjanges to the filter and the tone control. I love it. Especially with an OD before it.

But does anyone else have a problem with volume loss in octave mode? I guess its not really loss, but the fuzz is so much louder that i cant see how to switch modes while playing. I dont remember this in demos ive watched.

Also when i stomp my octave switch it takes a bit to turn to octave. It fades up like the diode has to charge. 

It acts differently with a buffer in front too. Its my favorite octave and i think fuzz too.
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

alex frias

My FTM works in the oposite way: when you engage the octave up switch you get a audible boost in overall sound.

About using a buffer or boost before it: I have a Dano French Toast. it's very good, a Si diode FTM with electronic buffered bypass switching. I really liked my DIY FTM to interact with guitar Volume and Tone controls better.
Pagan and happy!

gigimarga

Anyway, are these electrolytics caps in the right way or not?
Is there a "rule" for them?

El Heisenberg

I used all tant caps. Some where + facing transistor.
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

El Heisenberg

The ones coming fromthe wiper lugs of the tone and fuzz pots to tranny bases. Those should have + facing the transistor. I dunno why. But ever since i noticed this ive followed it. With op amps too. If it was + input, then i attatched the + side of the cap to it. Other than that the caps face the way  youd expect them to.
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

gigimarga


fuzzo

Quote from: alex frias on December 04, 2009, 08:38:07 AM

About using a buffer or boost before it: I have a Dano French Toast. it's very good, a Si diode FTM with electronic buffered bypass switching. I really liked my DIY FTM to interact with guitar Volume and Tone controls better.

I think that too, that sounds better in a overdrive or boost in front of it.


El Heisenberg

Fuzzo, you have an ultimate octave dont you? Have you looked inside? Did you say u just used a boss od before it?

My mxr noise gate effects this pedal. I dont like the sound of it without the noise gate in front of it. Recebtly ive had problems with scratching Noises when running a comp or noise gate before it. I recenrly got a box wah and put that after all
my distortions and that fixed it. the wah doesnt work before any of my pedals. What about a buffer before the ultimate octave?

Id dtill love to have the boost the octave switch is sposed to give. I just get a delayed response and then a (seemingly) quiter output. The fuzz settin is so bassy.

Iv been thinking about adding a green ringrr to make two otcaves. Or trying to combine blocks of FTM and GR and see if i could do a hybrid. Why not?? Green ringer and FTM/ Ultimate octave are my favorite favorite octaves up ive built. 
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

projectx102

If you have built a GGG FTM then the changes to make when looking at the layout http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ftm_lo_2fsw.pdf are:
C1 and C2 need to be changed to .047uF
C10 needs to be changed to a toggle switch that switches between .001uF and .015uF
C11 needs to be changed to .1uF (in some threads I've read this one seems to be left out but it is important)
You need to add a 10k resistor from S3(after the 10uF electrolytic) to lug 3 of the Sustain/Fuzz pot
The Volume and Tone pots need to be changed to 100k
I left the Sustain/Fuzz pot at 50k or you can use a 100k pot with a 100k resistor across the lugs
With these changes my FTM sounds awesome!

fuzzo

Quote from: El Heisenberg on December 05, 2009, 07:51:19 AM
Fuzzo, you have an ultimate octave dont you? Have you looked inside? Did you say u just used a boss od before it?

My mxr noise gate effects this pedal. I dont like the sound of it without the noise gate in front of it. Recebtly ive had problems with scratching Noises when running a comp or noise gate before it. I recenrly got a box wah and put that after all
my distortions and that fixed it. the wah doesnt work before any of my pedals. What about a buffer before the ultimate octave?

Id dtill love to have the boost the octave switch is sposed to give. I just get a delayed response and then a (seemingly) quiter output. The fuzz settin is so bassy.

Iv been thinking about adding a green ringrr to make two otcaves. Or trying to combine blocks of FTM and GR and see if i could do a hybrid. Why not?? Green ringer and FTM/ Ultimate octave are my favorite favorite octaves up ive built. 


Yeap I've a Ultimate cotave by fulltone, of course I look inside (I do that each time I have a new pedal ;D) . Nothing magic inside in my opinion, greenie cap , Elna electrolytic cap, metal resistor and transistor are standart silicon .

Works perfectely in my Wah (modded with an output buffer) , and for my tastes that sounds better with a Boost/OD before, I don't know why. That adds something (I couldn't what). Alone, its sound excatly like the QOSTA song "little sister".




El Heisenberg

#17
Ah! I play that song with an OD and sometimes compressor before the ultimate octave. Leave it on fat and octave on the whole time. Do you just have the wah set heel up the whole time?

The solo is crazy how you gotta bend all the notes before you pluck them like muddy waters style or something, then he stops with the blues and the end of it uses western notes. I can't pull it off. But the octave brings me so close.

Still gotta build the output buffer for my vox wah.


Im still gettin the splattyness from it when theres something on in front of it. Compressor or noise gate or anything. Wah after it takes it away but the vox wah totally changes its tone. I gotta open it up and see if a transistor is wacked or something os touching. I should rebuild it anyway. I want a green ringer after or before it that i can switch on for two up.
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

El Heisenberg

Quote from: projectx102 on December 05, 2009, 09:45:13 AM
If you have built a GGG FTM then the changes to make when looking at the layout http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ftm_lo_2fsw.pdf are:
C1 and C2 need to be changed to .047uF
C10 needs to be changed to a toggle switch that switches between .001uF and .015uF
C11 needs to be changed to .1uF (in some threads I've read this one seems to be left out but it is important)
You need to add a 10k resistor from S3(after the 10uF electrolytic) to lug 3 of the Sustain/Fuzz pot
The Volume and Tone pots need to be changed to 100k
I left the Sustain/Fuzz pot at 50k or you can use a 100k pot with a 100k resistor across the lugs
With these changes my FTM sounds awesome!



Actually, its C3 that is .047. C2 stays at .001

theres room for cool mod. Since there one toggle why make it two to match the foot switches? I used an spdt center off switch to switch between ge diodes, si diodes, and none in the center off position. Should i have really used a dpdt center off for this?
"Your meth is good, Jesse. As good as mine."

projectx102

Quote from: El Heisenberg on December 06, 2009, 03:31:22 AM
Quote from: projectx102 on December 05, 2009, 09:45:13 AM
If you have built a GGG FTM then the changes to make when looking at the layout http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ftm_lo_2fsw.pdf are:
C1 and C2 need to be changed to .047uF
C10 needs to be changed to a toggle switch that switches between .001uF and .015uF
C11 needs to be changed to .1uF (in some threads I've read this one seems to be left out but it is important)
You need to add a 10k resistor from S3(after the 10uF electrolytic) to lug 3 of the Sustain/Fuzz pot
The Volume and Tone pots need to be changed to 100k
I left the Sustain/Fuzz pot at 50k or you can use a 100k pot with a 100k resistor across the lugs
With these changes my FTM sounds awesome!



Actually, its C3 that is .047. C2 stays at .001

theres room for cool mod. Since there one toggle why make it two to match the foot switches? I used an spdt center off switch to switch between ge diodes, si diodes, and none in the center off position. Should i have really used a dpdt center off for this?
Correct! Oops my mistake!