backing off on the depth pot
Thanks Josh, I'll check it out.
Ha Ha, you're not kidding, that's why I'm tweaking the bias the whole time, but my gut feeling(without having looked at it too closely) is that the differences in how hot your signal is are minimal (hard strum/soft strum) its just that they are accentuated exponentially by the gain structure of the circuit, so you would have to interrupt that somehow and when it differs with each channel that leaves you doing something similar to twiddling with the bias. You have the Mrk 1 version however, maybe there are some differences.
Let's make this the build thread; everybody can post their questions, comments, build reports and photos here
Good idea, I'm really interested in how it turned out for everyone else, and what mods people will figure out.
I used a green LED, ultrabright 5000MCD, about 1 lumen if I assume 30 degree beam. They are not very powerful in reality, but I thought it might be more pleasant than a really in-your-face powerful colour. Soothingly indicative.
I had my new scope on the signal, but just as a general indicator, and I tuned by ear using your instructions from the build Pdf. I think it's really clear where the sweet spots are. However, you could always pull back a bit to loose some ticking, but by doing that you lose the best of the effect. I will wait until I shield the in/out, then the switch if necessary and finally the rotary switch if I really have to, before I tame the effect down. I wired the rotary with 3 strand ribbon on a connector socket, quite fiddly, so I'm loathe to do that again, but that could be the problem.
the cap fixed what ticking there was. I saw someone mention somewhere that a smaller value would be better
OK, I'll try it out.
Sorry about the trimpots
No Problem, while I was searching my pile of old audiophile junk I found a huge stash of Alps trimpots that I hadn't seen before, so my Gristleizer has more mojo now even if they have to lean over a bit to fit in.
Thanks guys, I'm enjoying this effect a lot.