4148 or 914 will be fine instead of the 1n34 (as noted in the PDF). I used 1n914s on mine. I imagine purists might want germanium, though the difference they'd make is likely to be subtle, if extant.
Is the wiring diagram in the PDF not clear enough? The basic idea is this: the pad marked "1" is the pole for one switch. 2, 3, 4, and 5 are the throws for pole 1. Then the pattern starts over: pad 6 is the second pole, and 7, 8, 9, and 10 are the throws. The throws for the 2 switches should be in the same order as the numbering, so pad 2 should be selected at the same time as pad 7, 3 with 8, 4 with 9, and 5 with 10.
Now, there are 2 different rotary switch types I've come across. The Lorlin type (but this one is an Alpha clone):http://Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=46
and the open type:http://Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=117
They do not have the same "pinout" I guess you could call it. The closed/Lorlin type has what seems to me an intuitive arangement - the pole is in the center of the 4 contacts that it touches (this is what is shown in my wiring diagram). But the open type has the pole in between throws 1 and 2. You should take your multimeter to the pins to be sure you understand the arrangement of contacts in your particular switch.
Looking forward to seeing those boxes. You know, even after selling quite a few G-izer PCBs, not a single picture has been made of a finished box. (Even by me...