Toggle switches, what kind (and what size) do you use and why?

Started by svstee, December 29, 2009, 01:14:40 PM

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svstee

Submini


Mini


Standard


Heavy Duty


I have found that submini switches and even a lot of the regular minis are prone to damage from heavy use. I have a tendency to beat the crap out of my gear, so recently I have started to use Standard and even Heavy Duty sized toggle switches in my builds. They are often about the same price as a quality mini switch and they sure can take a lot more damage. I haven't had one of the big boys go out on me yet, while I've had at least 6 of the smaller ones fail. The heavier switches are also more forgiving of heavy handed soldering, and of desoldering and resoldering a lot when tweaking or changing a build. The downside of course is that they are way bigger and take up a bunch of space. Their depth can also be a problem if you use Hammond type boxes; some won't fit unless you mount them on the side. Since I use almost only RACO electrical boxes for my builds this is not an issue for me. I find they don't take up much more space than a 16mm pot, and I think the trade off is worth it. I haven't seen too many other builders here using them though, so I thought it would be informative to pick your brains a bit.

Thanks!

Mark F

I use mini & submini for the reasons you stated. They take up alot less real estate.

svstee

Have you ever had problems with reliability? All but a few of the ones I've used felt cheap and fragile.

head_spaz

For RACO boxes, there are literally thousands of different types you can use. Some are even illuminated.
Here's a standard big muff soft-touch switch for example.
(Nevermind the front panel, it seems to have gotten HOT.)
Deception does not exist in real life, it is only a figment of perception.

trjones1

Where are you getting your mini switches from?  The one in the picture looks like what they sell at Futurlec.  They're particularly crappy switches.

punkin

Quote from: head_spaz on December 29, 2009, 06:12:45 PM
For RACO boxes, there are literally thousands of different types you can use. Some are even illuminated.
Here's a standard big muff soft-touch switch for example.
(Nevermind the front panel, it seems to have gotten HOT.)
I can't see where or how one can order from these guys...any info?
Ernie Ball Music Man - JPM, THD Univalve, Grace Big Daddy, PepperShredder, BSIAB2, FireFly Amplifier.

Processaurus

small bear has a mini toggle with a stubby little lever, looks more forgiving of drops and stomps.  I usually try to make a knob fort around toggles, as they really are prone to damage.  I like that you use the big honky ones, reminds me of the foxx tone machine and pre-miniature pedals of the 60's.

svstee

I would rather just use something bombproof than to build a "knob fort" like you are talking about. I can switch a lot of those big toggles with my foot if I want! (try that with subminis!)

caress

submini or heavy duty for me - in my experience, they're both difficult to break. 
the small ones are nice because they don't take up very much space, but it does feel good to click a nice big toggle switch once in a while...  ;)

i really dislike the mini switches, as they seem rather flimsy to me based on their length to width ratio.  ummm that's what she said.
i've broken one or two in the past...

John Lyons

The mini toggle "short bat" ones are pretty solid.
The small lever is nice since it's harder to knock
and can be set below the knob height and more
discrete on the top panel.
Slide switches are a nice way to go as well.
They are more sturdy and low profile.

John
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Brymus

Just try not to get the ones from Rat Shack, I have had several of those break just switching them the first couple of times.
The ones from Mouser and such seem to be of better quality and switch smoother.
I have been able to re-use those several times for different builds.
I too have only used Rayco enclosures,for the price you cant beat em.
I am hoping to get some of John Lyons boxes for some up-coming builds though.
I'm no EE or even a tech,just a monkey with a soldering iron that can read,and follow instructions. ;D
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jkokura

You could always do like Farndurk over at another forum does (perhaps he's here too, I just have seen his work through this other forum).

http://www.farndurk.com/index.php?product=burgs2

I'd buy his pedals just for the cool cover on the switch!!!!! I don't even care how it sounds!

Jacob

Paul Marossy

Quote from: John Lyons on December 31, 2009, 05:29:41 PM
The mini toggle "short bat" ones are pretty solid.

Yeah, IMO, those are the best compromise between size and durability.

svstee

Those ones Farndurk uses look like full size switches, but I agree the cover is pretty cool. So how many of you use the heavy duty/standard size switches?

jkokura

I've used mostly the Red ones from Smallbear. Don't know if those are mini or sub-mini. I haven't even built those projects yet though.

Hides-His-Eyes

Quote from: jkokura on December 31, 2009, 07:09:12 PM
You could always do like Farndurk over at another forum does (perhaps he's here too, I just have seen his work through this other forum).

http://www.farndurk.com/index.php?product=burgs2

I'd buy his pedals just for the cool cover on the switch!!!!! I don't even care how it sounds!

Jacob

Those are AMAZING!

jkokura

I know right?!?

I don't suggest you rip off the idea, but I will say that it is dang cool to do.

Jacob

joegagan

stages contain too many stompin' fools to have any of those toggles out where they can be stepped on. even the full size ones will crack the body if stepped on hard enough.

exceptions:
-the tiny bat like keeley sometimes uses, john lyons mentioned. they probably would survive being stepped on because they shoe would indent rather than collapse the switch. i haven't tested them.

-when placed close to and between knobs ( not just next to on one side), the mini switches seem like they would be hard to collapse.
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the slide switches are a pain to cut holes, you have to make two screw holes and a rectangular hole for the slide. time consuming.
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overall, i prefer plastic topped rocker switches, usually require a 3/4" round hole, i try to find them with metal nuts rather than plastic.
my life is a tribute to the the great men and women who held this country together when the world was in trouble. my debt cannot be repaid, but i will do my best.

Hides-His-Eyes

Quote from: jkokura on April 01, 2010, 06:43:30 PM
I know right?!?

I don't suggest you rip off the idea, but I will say that it is dang cool to do.

Jacob

It's the DIYer way. Not like I'm selling them.

Ronsonic


Toggle switch covers are a standard sort of thing. Look at pictures of airplane %^&*pits and such.

I found some surplus that have an interlock so you can't open the cover until it's been electrically released. Some amp, sooner or later will have one on the standby switch.

Myself, I've had it with mini toggles and am going to seriously avoid them in the future.
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